Talk about a bucket list experience. The Amazon River is such force of nature, and how the forest survives, the indigenous tribes thrive without modern accompaniments, and the many species of animals continue to survive is humbling and truly breathtaking.
I’m not typically one for tour groups or all-inclusive packages, but to visit the Amazon, you must at least have an all-inclusive package and may want to consider a tour group. Just keep in mind that it is the Amazon, so you’re not getting five-star – it’s just too difficult to keep bringing that level of quality into the Amazon – but once you accept this, it will be an unforgettable experience.
I chose to stay with the Amazon Explorama Lodges, and specifically the Ceiba Tops Lodge (https://www.explorama.com/ceiba-tops-lodge.html), so this review is entirely based on this lodge.
Nites
The Ceiba Tops lodges are quaint, air-conditioned, rooms with en suite bathrooms. There’s not really a sitting area in the room, and interestingly, they’re furnished with desks despite the complete lack of WiFi anywhere except sporadically in the bar and dining area. This lack of WiFi isn’t for everyone, and I don’t agree with the policy especially given one’s reliance on their tour guide and the tours available at set times of the day, but there’s nothing to be done about this, so just be prepared.
Bites
I didn’t come to the Amazon expecting five star dining but as a vegetarian, I was left wanting: every meal except for breakfast was either a pasta or a rice dish, and typically they were the same. My biggest complaint was that there was only ever one option for the vegetarians among us, and if you’re vegan, be prepared for fruit and tomato and avocado sandwiches for nearly every meal.
Breakfast was typically quite ample and an excellent way to start your day, especially when there wasn’t much to eat the night before.
Reader beware: the resort has water, instant coffee, and tea available all the time, but anything additional will cost you. There are not “markets” nearby so you are at the mercy of the resort, and their prices. And further warning: I witnessed two prices for the same can of sprite. I paid 8 soles, and a rather annoying and aggressive guest was charged 20 soles for an identical can so be polite, and be prepared.
Sites
I realize that the above isn’t much of a sales pitch, but when you acknowledge that you won’t be at a five-star resort, and the food is pretty average, but that it is the experience of viewing the Amazon river, it is all worth it.
There are multiple activities available, all depending on the amount of time you stay at the resort. If given the choice, I would do the visit to monkey island, walking the suspended tree-top bridge, bird watching, and trying to see the two types of fresh water dolphins, both grey and pink. The night walk has the potential of being outstanding, but sadly, you’re typically part of a larger group and if you happen to have the chatty cathys, well, you’ll likely not get to see much.
And although I’m sure that all of the guides are great, a special shout out to Roberto, our guide. We were a large group for two days, but then it was just Roberto and us for the additional two days and he went out of his way to show us things, and introduce us to various aspects of living on the amazon that we wanted to experience. We were also fortunate to see both pink and grey dolphins, as well as sloths climbing trees (and “rescued” by two indigenous children of a local Yagua tribe).
