The largest of the islands that comprise the Azores, Sao Miguel is also the most diverse and expansive with so many things to do from swimming, to hiking, to boating, and of course eating. I spent three full days here and would happily have spent another day or two just to drive around and explore this stunning island further.
Nites
Every budget is accommodated, as well as every accommodation type, on Sao Miguel. As this was my first visit, I wanted to be a little more centrally located so that I had my bearings and didn’t feel too overwhelmed.
We opted for the Casa da Ilha (https://www.casadailha.pt/en), a self-described 3-star hotel but it isn’t really a hotel, and is definitely better than any 3-star that I’ve ever seen. Upon checking in, you receive a key to your room and another to the front door, as no one is typically around from the afternoon onward. The double room with ocean views is gorgeous, big enough for two, with a huge bathroom and gorgeous views to the ocean. It’s in a quiet residential area so don’t worry about loud noises from the road below. But more than the room, the staff were amazing and the breakfast in the morning gorgeous and it’s location, within walking distance of the city centre of Ponte Delgado makes this a prime place to stay.
Bites
If I only had one night in Sao Miguel, and honestly, I’d figure out a way to spend one additional night just so that I could return here, it would be to dine at the Tukátulá Beach Bar (https://www.facebook.com/tukatula.bar/). Reservations are a must, and once you arrive, you’ll understand why. The outdoor dining is breathtaking, and you can understand why the space is split in half: the other half is a gorgeous bar with insanely delicious cocktails. But back to the restaurant. Stunning. Calming. Enchanting. The dishes are a bit on the small plate side, but so, so filling. This restaurant covered every food type, including for this vegetarian. When you go, and if they have the mushroom tacos on the menu, do it. Do not hesitate. They were phenomenal and I am still trying to figure out how to recreate the recipe as I write this.
If you have a second night, and you don’t want to drive to the other side of the island for the Tukátulá Beach Bar, there are two other outstanding restaurants that I would highly recommend. The Louvre Michaelense Bar Bistro Mercearia (no website but they are on Insta) is a little more high-end, and reservations are imperative (even off season, people were repeatedly being turned away without reservations). The menu covered every dietary need, and the wine list was pretty impressive for a small island in the middle of the Atlantic. Daily specials are listed on a chalkboard but the standard menu was outstanding!
The other recommendation that I would make is Rotas da Ihla Verde (https://www.rotasdailhaverde.com/). Also located in the village of Ponte Delgado, this vegan restaurant is pure joy with the best, and most attentive staff you will find anywhere. The menu is small so leave any pickiness you might have behind, or you might go hungry. The restaurant is super quaint, so reservations are a must, but I assure you that you won’t be disappointed, whatever it is that you choose.
Sites
A visit to the Azores isn’t complete without a whale watching tour. Of course, there’s no guarantee that you’ll see whales but come on, the chance to spend the day on the ocean is enough in and of itself.
We chose Picos de Aventura (https://picosdeaventura.com/en/) and they were fantastic. And it was easy to walk from the Casa da Ilha, and back, which was a plus. Picos de Aventura offers a half-day whale watching tour and a full-day tour that includes a trip to the Villa Franca islet, an extinct volcano where one side collapsed and is now a place to snorkel and relax. We did the full-day tour but a NOTE TO READERS: you only need to visit the islet once, so check your tours to make sure that multiple tours don’t include the same excursion. It can be boring even in the best of weather. The whale watching part of the full-day tour is carried out on a fiberglass “zodiac” boat much like water park rides. It was great, but those with bad backs, or delicate stomachs, beware.
Another fun activity, but not for the weak of heart, or arms, or legs, or back, was kayaking. The staff at Fun Activities Azores (https://fun-activities.net/) were top notch and didn’t hold it against us that we were newbies and had no idea how to kayak. By the end, we were pros, and I am chuffed that I did it, but reader beware: the oceans get a little rough in the afternoon so if you kayak out to the Villa Franca islet, getting back can be a real challenge. Thankfully that didn’t happen to us, but I saw other people struggle on a different day and was worried for them.
And if you have a car, be sure to go to Vista do Rei; the views are outstanding and the abandoned hotel (Monte Palace) shocking in its location and abandonment.
INSIDER TIP: with a car, you must visit the Termas de Ferraria thermal springs. It is fantastic! Be sure to bring water shoes (flippies won’t cut it), and a swimsuit and just follow the path down to the ocean. There are a few changing rooms and one bathroom for men and another for women, and the lines were long. So either change in/near your car, or wrap a towel around your waist like the surfers. The currents vacillate between hot and cold, and they can be strong so if you’re not confident in your swimming abilities, hold on to the ropes that span the natural pool from side to side but if you want to have fun, let the currents take you to the ocean for an experience of a lifetime.
Flying between islands is relatively easy and although this traveler doesn’t really like propeller planes, Azores Airlines were professional, the planes were clean, and thankfully, the flights were exceptionally smooth and relatively on time.