(updated 17 Nov 2024)
Portugal is a fascinating country that, unfortunately, has been hit by the economic crisis resulting in high unemployment and fearful citizens. But don’t let that stop you from going at least once in your life. Lisbon, the most known city in Portugal really is a lovely place and the people are attentive and helpful. But beware: there are areas that are not safe after sundown and never, ever, forget where you are and remain aware of your immediate surroundings.
Nights
The Brown’s Hotel Group is a relatively new chain of hotels in the city centre of Lisbon. We chose Brown’s Central (https://www.brownshotelgroup.com/browns-central/), which was centrally located to the other sister hotels with a block or two. Quirky in its charm, that junior suite was divine with views out to the crazy and tourist-packed streets below. But thanks to sound-proof windows, this was a relaxing and glorious place to put your feet up before heading back out for dinner in the evening. (Brown’s Boutique is the smallest of the hotels and Brown’s Avenue has a rooftop pool, just so you know.)
Another option is the The York House (https://www.yorkhouselisboa.com/), a lovely boutique hotel within walking distance to the tram, the old town and even the convention center if you are there on business. The rooms are like having your own apartment and vary in size, style, and ambiance.
Bites
Lisbon is peppered with little restaurants that are seemingly tucked in to alcoves on every street. I must admit that I have never tried one of these restaurants, and probably never will, but if you go, I suspect it is typical Portuguese culture. But fear not: I can definitely recommend a few restaurants that are well worth seeking out.
I would return to Lisbon right now if I had the chance to dine at Arkhe (https://arkhe.pt/) and I would go again and again and again. Arkhe does offer an a la carte menu but for the full experience, do the tasting menu and pair it with the wines. It is not cheap but I’m fairly certain that we’re not doing tasting menus all that frequently, so it is worth it. It’s a small space, with a limited number of tables, and purely vegetarian so sit back, and be wowed with this mouth-watering plant-based menu.
If you have a second night in Lisbon, or if Arkhe is just price-prohibitive, I cannot stress strongly enough that you must go to Senhor Uva (https://senhoruva.com/). Set amongst two spaces across the street from each other, this shared small plate restaurant is just gorgeous, and fun, and the staff are just so down-to-earth and informative. But reader beware: this restaurant is worth every penny of an Uber drive to get there. It is up what feels like an unending mountain, and I couldn’t imagine hiking up there on foot! Walking down is easy enough, but also lengthy, so trust me when I say don’t try walking to the restaurant. Just take a car!
Another place that I would love to try – we did it as part of a vegan food tour – is AO 26 (https://letsumai.com/widget/26-vegan-food-project?party_size=2&date=2024-11-05). The food riffs off of traditional Portuguese dishes, but in a vegetarian (or vegan) way which I found really interesting.
Still new to the restaurant scene is Kais (www.kais-k.com) which is another large, open venue much like the Al Cantara Cafe. Absolutely stunning and fabulous food!
If you are in a bind, I would suggest Sacramento (http://www.tablegroup.pt/en/sacramento.html) which is in the heart of the shopping area and a bit on the touristy side. They have food for everyone, even this vegetarian, so you can’t go wrong and the prices won’t kill you.
And for those of you vegetarians, I found the most amazing restaurant run by the sweetest people: Jardim das Cerejas (www.jardimdascerejas.com). According to their website, they are vegetarian but I think they are vegan actually. The food was amazing! But be warned: it’s buffet style which I personally don’t like, but when I saw a vegetarian restaurant in Lisbon, I had to try it. Truly amazing food, with everything you could want (except desert which was extra), and it was ridiculously affordable. Seek this restaurant out and enjoy this little hidden treasure.
Sights
Lisbon is a walking city. Yes, there are trams that go everywhere and even a “subway” that appears to just go in one big circle (thus why it’s in quotes), but to really experience the city, just walk. And a great word of advice that was shared with me: if you feel like you are getting lost, just follow the tram tracks. If there is a tram line near your hotel – which there is near the York House – you will make it home.
The Bario Alto is an amazing place with gorgeous views over the city. Although most Lisboans live outside the city center, this is the closest thing that you will get to old Lisbon. I could wonder for hours here, just getting lost and people watching.
Another great experience is to traipse up to the Castle overlooking the city. Its a hike: whether you walk up the stairs or follow the tram line up, it’s all uphill! But the views, again, are stunning and quite honestly, you’ll feel good about yourself for doing this uphill hike!
If shopping is your thing, Lisbon really isn’t your place. The glass and china that you can find can be a lovely addition to your travel mementos, but other than that, there really isn’t much worth saving room in your luggage for. Well, perhaps you should save a little room for a non-traditional port wine from Oporto! But I’ll leave that up to you.
Being vegetarian in a very fish and meat heavy culture, we wanted to be exposed to some vegan options that we probably wouldn’t have tried on our own. We found the tour through Viator and it was the owner who did the tour with us so we felt pretty special. AO 26 (see above) was an incredible find and not one that we would have seen off the street. And the other tastings were fun too (except the ice cream, but that is honestly one of two reasons that I couldn’t be vegan (the other is cheese)).
Oh, and you must visit Bertrand Bookstore (https://www.lisbonportugaltourism.com/guide/bertrand-bookstore.html), the oldest bookstore in the world.