Travel with Craig

This town, Thalpe, along with Galle Fort to the east, have made me fall in love with Sri Lanka.

Posted on 01/01/2019 by Craig

Thalpe, along with Galle Fort to the East, have made me fall in love with Sri Lanka. The people are so kind and the laid back beach culture that has taken over is a welcomed respite especially if you are traveling from other destinations that are a bit more chaotic.

Nites

Hands down, the perfect destination has been The Owl and the Pussycat hotel (https://www.otphotel.com/). The staff are outstanding, the rooms lovely and each unique, and the food made me enjoy Sri Lankan cuisine just a little bit more. But it is the view: set on Mihiripenna beach, and thus facing the Indian Ocean, the sound of the ocean calms a stressful day, the ocean breeze, although warm, is refreshing, and the lush garden that invites numerous birds is tranquil in a wind-swept sort of way. Reader beware: there are a few rooms at the OtP that do not have ocean view rooms. Those with a B after their room number, ie 1B,2B, are on the back side of the hotel. Also note that rooms on the ground floor have little privacy as guests walk in front of your room to enter the building and climb the stairs.

If you can’t get in to the OtP – there are only 27 rooms or so – there are some other lovely looking hotels along the way. In no particular order, consider the following.

Villa Barnes looks stunning. I believe it is available via Airbnb.

Hotel Kabalan, at least from the outside looks worth looking in to.

Marriott Weligama which is further afield but looks stunning. Just plan accordingly to visit Galle Fort

Bites

After a lot of Sri Lankan food, I was ready for a change and I can highly recommend the pizza at Wijaya Beach Restaurant. Located directly on the beach, this little place initially started as a restaurant but has recently added rooms. They don’t reservations so getting a table on the beach is near-impossible but that’s okay: everything looks at the ocean and the constant sound of waves crashing is all you really need.

I can also recommend the Runcible Spoon at the OtP. Just like the hotel, the restaurant (where you also have breakfast) is situated on the beach which makes an amazing setting for dinner and drinks.

Sites

Take a tuktuk. Somewhere. Anywhere. You get the best views and the most incredible experience going to any destination.

Galle Fort is amazing. It is very touristic with tons of shops and hotels and restaurants but if you look past these things, you can see an incredible town with stunning architecture and, more importantly, the interweaving of religions with churches, mosques, temples, and I’d bet a synagogue but I can’t promise! And although it’s not a site – and if you saw it, you might be scared – a massage at the OtP hotel is a must. The massage hut is located in a corner of the grounds looking to the ocean. And although it may be a little unsettling for some when asked to undress, completely – not only because there are people fishing in the ocean but also, well, we Americans are little conservative that way – it will be one of the most relaxing and peaceful experiences of your life. Trust me

Posted in Sri Lanka, Thalpe (Galle Fort) | Tagged Galle, Galle Fort, stilt fisherman, surf, Temple, tuktuk | Leave a comment

Close enough to Yala National Park for the perfect safari

Posted on 01/01/2019 by Craig

I would recommend 2 days max in Tissamaharama. I’ve read that there is wonderful history to this little town but much of that has gone, or I couldn’t find it, such that it is a hustle and bustle little town. With two nights, you arrive on night one, do a safari early the next day, take a hot shower to remove the red clay and dust from everywhere, sleep, and move on to your next destination after the second night.

Nites

This is a tough one to be honest. If you are able to plan well in advance, there are some stunning hotels close to Yala National Park that I would love to stay at. But since I didn’t, I will just say that Wild Coast Tented Lodge (http://www.resplendentceylon.com/wildcoastlodge-yala/) is where I so wanted to stay but even 6 month out, they were booked over the Christmas holiday. On the other side of the small lake is the Una Huts by Uga Escapes, who were also booked out (https://www.ugaescapes.com/chenahuts/). Both of these hotels are insanely expensive but I suspect worth every cent. There is also an outpost of the Cinnamon hotel chain, the Cinnamon Wild Yala (http://www.cinnamonhotels.com/en/cinnamonwildyala/) which might be worth checking. And as I write this in 2018, I’ve heard talk that there is another 5 star hotel going up on the beach about 15 km away from Tissamaharama so stay tuned.

If, like me, you can’t get in to the above, or they are just too expensive, there is the Thaulle Resort and Spa (http://thaulle.com/?lang=en). Run by a German family and situated directly on lake Yoda, it is a calm and peaceful resort where each of the 27 rooms face the lake (beware the mosquitos friends!). The rooms have a bit too much wood for my taste, making them very “Germanic” to be honest, but they are large and all have large bathrooms, and gorgeous balconies, and the staff are wonderful so for a couple of days, it does what it needs to do.

Bites

I wish I had something to offer here but, sadly, there was a serious lack of restaurants that this intrepid travel was intrepid enough to try. The Thaulle does offer half board dining option so you can try that or, if you have a car or they arrange a tuktuk, I suspect any of the 5 stars above under Nites would be amazing

Sites

Without a doubt, you will probably come to Tissamaharama, or one of the surrounding villages, to do a safari in Yala National Park. There’s really not a lot else to do other than relax this far away from Colombo or Galle Fort. I have no hesitation in saying that this is a trip worth taking! And for me, I opted to do a full-day tour which, in the end turned out to be completely worth it. Immediately upon entering (once the sun rose as you do arrive in the dark), we saw water buffalo and shortly thereafter male and female peacocks, and deer. But it took a while to see elephants and even far longer to see the elusive leopard.

But given all the research that I did before the trip, and some of the things that I experienced in total contrast to what I read, I wanted to share some advice.

Reader beware:

It’s a safari, not the zoo: your driver will do his best, and communicate with other guides, to find both elephants and leopards if possible
The roads are rough so be prepared for a bumpy ride and hold on tight
You don’t need a hat as every jeep I saw was covered
A dust mask is a good idea; I had one but many people didn’t and were improvising with t-shirt and facial tissue (aka, Kleenex)
Mosquito repellant is a must; there is a LOT of standing water for the animals and, thus, for the mosquitos
You will be covered in red clay dust by the end
And if you do a full day tour, know that it is now a requirement in the park that all jeeps stop driving between 12 and 14.00 so you, and all of the other tourists doing a day tour will hang out near the beach for 2 hours. (Most tours include lunch but I opted on the side of caution and ate a protein bar.)

Posted in Sri Lanka, Tissamaharama (near Yala National Park) | Tagged Elephants, leopards, mongoose, mosquitos, peacocks, sri lanka, Yala National Park | Leave a comment

Colombo works in all of its magic and intertwined wonder.

Posted on 01/01/2019 by Craig

Colombo is an interesting mix of cultures that it really makes this lovely country difficult to point to just one influence: there is the Indian influence, just to the north of this lovely little island; the British influence in its grand architecture; the Dutch and Portuguese influence from decades past; and the more recent Chinese influence who have been partnering with Sri Lanka to rebuild and develop this island country. And it works, in all of its magic and intertwined wonder.

Nites

Oh my goodness, the Shangri-La hotel is stunning! Located right across from the Indian Ocean, the lobby is breathtaking and the rooms spectacular. Opt to pay a little more, if even just for one night stay, to wake to the view of the ocean is so worth it. Reader beware: there is a lot of development happening directly across from the hotel that appears to be either a marina or another luxury hotel so the stunning views you see on their website may soon disappear.

Closer to the centre of town is a Taj hotel which looks stunning and if you’d prefer to stay closer to the ocean but there is no availability at the Shangri-La, or it is price-restrictive, there is a Hilton just around the corner from the Shangri-La and the Kingsbury Colombo which looks old-school glamour.

Sites

Colombo is such an interesting place, with so many diverse influences that the only real way to see everything is a tour bus. But reader beware: what appears to be a hop-on-hop-off bus is the antithesis of that: you can’t hop off. But don’t let that deter you because the sites, and the architecture that makes Colombo so unique, will be covered in about a 4-hour drive.

And if the weather isn’t too hot – you have your choice between hot, hotter, and hottest – go for a walk and take in the lovely architecture that makes this city such an amalgamation of influences.

Posted in Colombo, Sri Lanka | Tagged Chinese, Colombo, lotus tower, Temple | Leave a comment

Getting that best deal for that to-die-for hotel

Posted on 15/07/2018 by Craig

When I begin planning a trip, one of the first things that I do is to investigate hotels. I mean, I’ve gotta stay somewhere right and if you haven’t figured out from my blog posts, I’m a planner. A serious planner! I also suspect that some would say I’m a picky traveler. I like to simply believe that I know what I like: I don’t like large hotels, I really don’t like chain hotels, and I really don’t care about the amenities because I’m not there for room service and the swimming pool. What I am looking for is cool, funky, and fun with some genuinely unique touches.

So how do I go about finding these hotels? Word of mouth is key! But given that I often go places that few of my friends have been too, that doesn’t always work. So I do web searches and, yes, I even look at newspapers, and travel magazines, but I also like to look at blogs like mine. If you bypass those first few web pages that have either paid for your views or are part of a conglomerate, you’ll start to find people like me who have a love of travel and want to share their insight. And no disrespect to those travel review websites but, no, I don’t look at them. If you like them, do it; do what works for you!

But here’s one of the important things in those early stages of discovery: identify as many hotels that you like. Don’t focus on just one, unless you’re willing to pay whatever rate it is they offer. The more hotels that fit your requirements, the more options you will have to choose from.

In addition to being a planner, I also like to get the best value for my money that I can. Which leads me to my next bit of advice: write to the hotels directly. Don’t be afraid and don’t be embarrassed. Write to them. Tell them when you are planning to come. If it’s for a special occasion, or you are even a return guest, tell them. And ask then what the best possible rate they can offer will be.

Through trial and error, I’ve learned – yeah, the hard way sometimes – that it’s best to be as specific as possible. If you see a room that has a balcony that you’d like, or the décor is a specific colour or style that appeals to you, or whatever, ask for rates that reflect that room type. If you just say that you’re looking for a “room for two and what’s the best possible rate that you can offer?”, that best possible rate could be an interior room with no windows (yep, that happened to me) or the room on the back side of the hotel with no views of the ocean but, instead, a view of the hill behind the hotel that had a path right in front of your window so strangers could look in (that one’s happened a couple of times!)

Some hotels won’t reply, and some may not offer anything better than what you find on their website, but very frequently I’ve found that the hotel will give me a better rate, they will recognize me when I arrive, and sometimes, there is even a very kind welcome drink waiting for me in my room. I mean, seriously, what’s wrong with that? For a few minutes of emailing the various hotels that you identified from the start, you may just end up at a gorgeous hotel, at a better rate than those who book last-minute, and a few additional bucks in your pocket for something else.

And last but not least, yes, go back to that social media feed and tag the hotel both when you confirm – it shows your excitement and appreciation and gives them a little free marketing – as well as when you arrive – all for the same reason! It’s a two-way street: remember that!

Obviously, you can take all of the above with a grain of salt. If you like a certain chain hotel, then stay there, by all means. And if you want to accrue points on a hotel booking site, then do it! It’s your vacation so do what’s right for you so that you have the best possible vacation!

Posted in A grain of salt... | Tagged best hotel, boutique hotel, hotel, negotiate, social media | Leave a comment

Torcello – during the day it is a day-tripper’s dream and a night it is calm oasis of nature sounds and the occasional lapping water along the canal sides.

Posted on 15/06/2018 by Craig

My day job is as a medical publisher and one day, I was speaking with an author about a forthcoming trip to Venezia and she said “you have to go to Torcello! The island is beautiful and the Locanda Cipriani is amazing!” I laughed and assured her that I was, indeed, going to Torcello and actually staying at the Locanda AND hosting a party there to which she replied “of course you are! I think you know Italy better than I do and I’m Italian!”

Nites

The Locanda Cipriani is a charm like no other. https://www.locandacipriani.com/en/ The inn only has 5 rooms and each are on the first floor. And I honestly wouldn’t call them luxurious, but they are charming in a familial sort of way. And although you can hear the other guests coming and going, it’s only because of the old floor boards and closing doors: each room has a double door in order to help with a bit of privacy.

Bites

I am not one for eating at hotel restaurants but the restaurant at the Locanda is absolutely divine. I’m pretty sure there’s a menu but when I went there – twice – both times I said that I was vegetarian and the waiter kindly offered suggestions based on local produce that was purchased that day. And I will tell you, I often get nervous in the north of Italy as the food can be heavy – gnocchi with cream sauce and veg for instance – but the food here was not heavy. It was heavenly.

If you want to venture away from the Locanda, you really should go to Venissa (http://www.venissa.it/) on Burano. Be sure to check the vaporetto times, unless you have your own boat, because this is well away from Venezia and the frequency of boats aren’t that frequent.

And although I didn’t eat here – I tried but they were closed on the day I had free – the Osteria al Ponte del Diavolo was consistently packed and the menu looked truly inviting.

Sites

The site is the island. It is not a large island, and not a lot of people live here, but during the day it is a day-tripper’s dream and a night it is calm oasis of nature sounds and the occasional lapping water along the canal sides.

Posted in Torcello | Tagged Locanda Cipriani, Torcello, Venezia, Venice, Venissa | Leave a comment

I am in love with Bergen. I can’t say anything more than it’s been some time since I’ve been to a place that is this inviting, the people this welcoming, and the food this outstanding.

Posted on 10/12/2017 by Craig

I’ve heard Bergen described as being very German but I found it unique, inviting, lovely, and fun. I would live here in a heartbeat and I can’t wait to return.

Nites

As the second largest city in Norway, Bergen has many options in terms of hotels: the Clarion collections, the Scandic hotel chains, and Radisson. But I chose an independent and would stay here every time, even if there aren’t views to the water like the other hotels offer: Det Hanseatiske Hotel (http://www.dethanseatiskehotel.no/en/). Truly stunning and unique rooms, each different I believe, and centrally located. But most of all, the staff, especially Erik, were fantastic and the breakfast outstanding!

Bites

Oh my god. If you only have one night – or even if you have many! – there is only one place to go. Lysverket (http://lysverket.no/). Located in the museum Kode 4, this is a dining experience that must be enjoyed. Lysverket offers 4 and 7 tasting menus, and you can have it paired with wine, so do what’s best for you. And as luck would have it, and on a whim, I wrote asking if they could accommodate a vegetarian. And they could! So I chose the 4 course option and I tell you that there were 3 “introductions” before the actual meal began. And each one was stunning! And kudos to the chef: when I received a course that had poached eggs – something I don’t particularly like but tried – and the staff took the plate away (with mostly uneaten egg), the chef sent out another course to make up for the eggs. I am still dreaming about this experience.

If you don’t want to eat at Lysverket every night, which I understand as it is a bit on the expensive side, I can highly recommend the Bergen outpost of Kitchen and Table (http://www.kitchenandtable.se/). Although I liked the version in Tromsø, I loved the outpost in Bergen. This version also has vegan options available which, even if you are a meat or fish eater, sometimes giving your body a rest is a good thing and the food hear outstanding!

And one final option just because I loved the décor and the old world setting: Potetkjelleren (http://www.potetkjelleren.no/). Meaning “potato cellar”, this stunning restaurant has an upstairs and cellar restaurant. The food is beautifully presented and although the options for a vegetarian aren’t numerous, what they are able to offer is lovely.

Sites

The Bergen card is what you have got to do. Go to the Akvariet, the museums, and the Floibanen which, totaled up, is more expensive than the Bergen card.

And a must is the Akvariet (https://www.akvariet.no/). A gorgeous walk, that doesn’t take more than 20 minutes from the city centre, this is a must. The sea lions, the penguins, the seals, and everything else that they have in this small aquarium are worth it.

The other thing that you must do, which is totally free, is that you must wonder around this gorgeous city, with its stunning houses perched on the hillside overlooking the fjord below. Be sure to wear comfortable walking shoes as the various roads, alleys, and stairs will invite you to continue exploring and taking photo after photo. It’s literally like walking in a dream village.

I am in love with Bergen. I can’t say anything more than it’s been some time since I’ve been to a place that is this inviting, the people this welcoming, and the food this outstanding. Literally, when I win the lottery, this will be my third home!

Posted in Bergen | Tagged Arctic Circle, bearded sea lion, Bergen, Kitchen and Table, Lysverket | Leave a comment

Shanghai – the new, modern China that is probably more “western” than any other place I visited.

Posted on 17/09/2017 by Craig

Nites

Oh my gosh! The Waterhouse on South Bund is amazing and I could easily have never left my room (beyond the fact that it faced the Pudong side of the river which was amazing). If you’re looking for cookie-cutter hotels, this is not your place: there is exposed concrete, brick, and steel everywhere. The only place I saw carpeting was in the hallways, which was odd, but I suspect because of the noise that concrete and steel can cause, this is for the benefit of guests. But the “design” is unique and oddly comforting which is why I forced myself to leave daily! (The Cool Docks are right across the street and although it didn’t really offer me much while I was there, I suspect that this, too, is going to be the “it” place to go in the very near future.

Bites

If you only have one night in Shanghai – heck only one night in China! – you must, must, go to Wujie on the Bund (22 Zhongshan East Road [as there is another Wujie that is more casual]). The staff are attentive, without being intrusive, and the design – both of the space and the uniforms – is so well thought-out that I was blown away. And the food is absolutely divine! Predominantly mushroom based, I found the food flavourful, stunningly plated, and very filling. There is a tasting menu available – that really doesn’t cost much more than the a la carte menu – but as this was my first time, I wanted to choose my meals. Next time, I WILL be doing the chef’s tasting menu. Know in advance that this is a vegetarian restaurant, but one that serves wine (thankfully) and, in one week’s time (as of this writing) may just earn its first Michelin Star

Sites

There are sites everywhere in Shanghai, no matter what corner you turn. Like most people – locals and visitors alike – you can’t visit Shanghai without walking along the Bund: running along the Huangpu river, the sites across the river to the Pudong are stunning. Likewise, some of the old “western-style” buildings across the road from the pedestrian walkway, are gorgeous as well. But most stunning is at night: there is literally a light show on the buildings of the Pudong that will hold your gaze for hours (unless you’re at the Waterhouse in room 31 which has direct views to the light show!).

The Wujiang Road from the Bund is basically a pedestrian only walking street. It’s cool and gives you a sense of an Eastern pedestrian only street which I quite enjoyed. But reader beware: there are “hawkers” everywhere offering bags and watches and they are really persistent. There is also an odd thing that happens, that I’m really not sure what’s happening, but it is without a doubt that you will be approached by a young woman – you’ll see her walk straight toward you – and when she gets close, she’ll say something, but I have no idea what it is. Being the skeptic that I am, I suspect prostitution – I thought I heard one whisper “sex” – but, regardless, stay clear and be on your way and your trip will be amazing.

Shanghai is an amazing place, and one that I would certainly want to return to. It’s arguably the most modern of China’s cities, if not the most western, but when taken in to consideration with the rest of China and what it has to offer, it really shouldn’t be missed!

Posted in Asia, China, Shanghai | Tagged Cool Docks, Design Hotel, Pudong, Shanghai, The Waterhouse on South Bund, Waterhouse, Wujiang Road, Wujie Vegetarian Restaurant | Leave a comment

Hangzhou/West Lake – a wonderful, relaxing, lake-side retreat to recharge and recenter before your next stop in the mad-packed land that is China.

Posted on 17/09/2017 by Craig

A friend of mine, when I told her that I was going to see the “silver lake” she questioned it and said “okay, if you really want to see the grey lake”. I get it, and it’s not the place that you would spend an enormous amount of time, but I must admit that I really liked it here. Granted, it was hot, and teaming with people, but it was also oddly calming and tranquil and I enjoyed it immensely. Advice to the reader: West Lake is a lake, and thus water, which means that there are also mosquitos everywhere. Bring mosquito repellent!

Further advice: Hangzhou and West Lake, to my surprise, had the fewest number of people who even spoke a modicum of English so be prepared to do a little pantomime, and be sure to have the names of where you are going written out in Chinese (you should do this everywhere you go in China or you will be in a pickle!).

Nites

The Shangri-La hotel is in a prime location on West Lake: you literally can walk out the door and either walk along the Su Causeway or the Bai Causeway. It was for this reason, and despite the various “unfavourable” reviews that I had read, that made me stay here. And for that reason alone, I would say that you can stay here and you will be fine. And I will say that the staff are fantastic and go well out of their way to help you! But the hotel is a bit tired, and you do pay for your location which I had a little trouble justifying in my head, especially for the breakfast since there are no other options nearby, so just be prepared and you’ll be fine

If you want something exciting and just a bit more of a walk to the causeway, I think I can safely recommend The New Hotel (http://thenewhotel.com/). The name alone makes it difficult to find on a web search, and thus I would bet just as difficult for a taxi driver to find, but the lobby and the outside look stunning and I did wish I had stayed here.

All of the major chains have hotels around West Lake so if you’re not comfortable trying something different, pick your favourite and you probably won’t go wrong.

Bites

After more than a week of Chinese food, I thought I might be in need of something different so, after reading some glowing reviews, I ventured to the Sawasdee Thai Restaurant. Unbeknownst to me, the Thai restaurant is in the Wyndham hotel on the north east side of the lake, and although I don’t typically dine in hotel restaurants unless I can avoid it, I must say that food was outstanding! The staff were great, and the “amuse bouche” that was brought out was stunning: betal leaves with a variety of toppings like onion, peanut, coconut, and of course chillies, with a sweet and sour sauce is now what I dream to have again! The prices are little higher than many other places that I visited in my travels, and probably 3 times as much as the restaurant the night before (not worth reviewing), but at the end of the day, the food was worth it and we are really only talking about $30! (Yes, that inexpensive!)

Sites

You can’t come to the West Lake and not walk along the causeways. If you can go early, before the heat rises as well as everyone else who will be taking a stroll, you’ll have better and somewhat unobstructed views of the lake and downtown Hangzhou.

You will also be remiss if you don’t take a “pleasure boat” to Small Yingzhou Island in the middle of the lake. It really doesn’t take long to navigate the entire island, and the boat trip to and from is relaxing and, depending on how much walking you’ve done, a welcomed respite for your feet.

But the one thing that I enjoyed, which no one really recommended, was the hike up to the Baochu Pagoda and back down by the Baopu Daoist Temple. It’s a hike, with a lot of steps, but the views are stunning and to see something that isn’t quite so touristy, and certainly less crowded, I loved it! You can also hike a little higher to one of the highest points in West Lake, which I didn’t due to time and hunger, so if you have the time, I think it’s worth the extended trek!

Posted in Asia, China, Hangzhou, Uncategorized | Tagged Baochu Pagoda, Baopu Daoist Temple, Bei Causeway, lotus flowers, Shanghai, Silver Lake, Su Causeway, West Lake | Leave a comment

Chengdu – pandas, not to mention a laid back city (for China) but also one of the fastest growing and inviting cities.

Posted on 17/09/2017 by Craig

Pandas. What more is there to say?! Yes, Chendu is a cool city with much to offer, both historically, and as the city develops, and not to mention phenomenal shopping, but I would guess that most people come to Chengdu to be as close to the pandas and this is the perfect place.

Nites

Oh my word, the Rhombus Park Aura Hotel (https://www.rhombuschengduhotel.com/) is absolutely divine! To be honest, I was nervous and even considered changing my hotel before I started my travels to a “known entity” – like the Grand Hyatt down the street, or the Marriott just a little further away – but I am so happy I didn’t. The room is stunning and looks brand new, the breakfast is fantastic and a great way to start your day, but most of all, the staff – Mia, Jennifer, and Daisy are the bee’s knees – were some of the kindest and most helpful people I met throughout my travels. Some of the staff speak little English – but hey, I speak no Chinese – but if they don’t understand, they’ll find someone who does. And for bonus points: when I checked out, it was a very early check-out because of my flight and Daisy made sure that a “to go” breakfast bag was available for the taxi ride to the airport. Perfect customer service!

Bites

The Wenshu Temple Vegetarian Restaurant is just a tad “up town” from where most of the hotels are located but trust me when I say that it is worth the visit. There are two restaurants here: the ground floor is a buffet and the second floor is the more upscale a la cart restaurant. Go for the 2^nd floor: it won’t cost you nearly as much as you might think and the room is stunning. Although listed as vegetarian, I think it is vegan so be prepared for no milk or eggs – I didn’t see anything with either on the menu – and no alcohol. I’ve never been one for drinking fruit juices with dinner – it fills me up, taking up space for the great food – so I just settled for water. But here’s what I found funny here, as well as other places in China: the menus are typically on a tablet of some sort, with photos and descriptions. In any part of the United States or Europe, if I saw pictures of the food offered, I’d keep on walking! But in China, it seems to be the norm, and when you don’t speak or read Chinese, well, it was a welcomed help.

My last night in Chengdu was supposed to be a food tour with the Chengdu Food Tour but alas, I messed up my times and arrived 2 hours late. Being somewhat dejected and not too interested in venturing out to find something to eat, I opted to dine at the Rhombus Park Aura Hotel. And boy am I glad that I did! When I mentioned that I was vegetarian, the chef kindly came out to discuss what he could do, and what I was interested in and it was lip-smacking delicious! I think the chef was a little concerned that I didn’t eat all of my food – just a salad and some wok friend noodles and veg – but when I said it was delicious and just too much, he said “but you’re a big athletic man and I thought you needed a lot”, it made me laugh and not feel quite so bad for wasting my food. If you only had one night in Chengdu, I would go to Wenshu Temple Vegetarian but if you’re tired, or short on time, the hotel restaurant will not let you down and you shouldn’t feel bad for staying in.

Sites

My whole reason for going to Chengdu was about the pandas. Can you really travel all this way to China and not visit a panda park? Roughly 1 hour or more outside of Chengdu is the Dujiangyan Base of China Conservation and Research Centre for the Giant Panda. They have an amazing volunteer programme that costs 700RMB which entitles you to work with the pandas (cleaning cages), feeding them, speaking with the staff, and watching a 1 hr documentary. (I was skeptical of the documentary but it is fantastic and you really must watch it!) So here are some tips and tricks that I learned along the way:

DO NOT BOOK A TOUR GUIDE TO THE CENTER! Everywhere I looked, I found ridiculously expensive “tours” to the center. But if you write to the centre directly pandaeducatecenter@163.com they will give you the information that you need in order to volunteer which, for the most part, is the completion of a health certificate from your doctor and an application.
Once you arrive at the centre, go straight to the turnstile and ask for the Volunteer Programme. They will escort you inside, someone will be your “guide” and that’s who you stay with for the remainder of the day. Thus, why you don’t need a tour guide as noted above.
Getting from downtown to the Panda Centre does require a transfer, probably from your hotel. This cost me 1200RMB and was mostly for the driver to wait all day. Yes, it’s expensive, but given that there are no convenient busses, and certainly no trains, the only other option is a rental car and there’s no way that I would drive in Chengdu (or anywhere else in China by myself).
Pictures with the pandas are the most expensive part, at 1800RMB. But if you think of it as a donation, and a once-in-a-lifetime experience, it makes it a little easier to justify. You can pay in cash, or with a card, so don’t sweat the details! You will be given about “20 seconds” with the panda, and the guides will take pictures of you, as well as your travel buddy, so trust me when I tell you you’ll have plenty of photos!

The Wenshu Temple area is also a great place to visit and wonder. The Temple and the monastery next to it are stunning, with seemingly something different around every corner. I was shocked at how much land the Temple took up because, from the outside, it looks really quite small. But a note to the reader: there is a LOT of building happening around the Temple, all of which appears to be shops designed in the shape of the Temple buildings so what is currently a very quaint and, what I assume to be, true representation of old Chengdu will soon become very gentrified (like much of China).

Posted in Asia, Changdu, China | Tagged Chengdu, Dujiangyan Base of China Conservation and Research Centre, Giant Panda, panda, red panda, Rhombus Park Aura Hotel | Leave a comment

The perfect place to see the Great Wall of China

Posted on 17/09/2017 by Craig

The Great Wall of China really must be on everyone’s bucket list. It’s a work out, and an architectural feat of magnitude impossible to match!

Beigou Village is a little over an hour outside of Beijing but also home to one of the most gorgeous portions of the (restored) Great Wall of China, the Mutianyu. In recent years, the local government has limited the number and types of vehicles that can bring tourists to this portion of the Wall so, although still occasionally crowded (especially on weekends) it is manageable and something that I’m certain I won’t forget in this lifetime.

Nites

The Brickyard Eco Retreat (http://brickyardatmutianyu.com/) is absolutely stunning and I don’t think I could recommend anything further. Started some 20 years ago, other “hotels” have started to pop up but this is where you want to be: a quiet oasis, with lovely rooms with two-story glass walls looking out, some toward the Great Wall (room 1-4 is stunning and on the end!). As part of the oasis theme, the rooms have no TV, or telephone, but they do have a fairly strong wifi connections just in case you can’t stay disconnected for too long.

If the Brickyard doesn’t seem to be your thing, they have sister properties called the Commune by the Great Wall (the most expensive) and the Schoolhouse (which has cooking classes if there are enough participants interested).

And for those who don’t want to walk, or take the shuttle provided by the Brickyard, I do know that there is a small hotel at the base of the tourist entry point to Mutianyu. I couldn’t find any details on line, but I know it exists, so it may be a tour-group only property, or one that only exists in Chinese, but if you really don’t want to stay at the Brickyard – which would be a mistake – I’m sure you can figure it out.

Bites

Sadly, this is where we fall short. The restaurant on the property is fine, and perhaps even good, but for the price of what you are paying for, it is obvious that we are paying for location and the utter lack of availability anywhere else. So, reader, come prepared for a lovely stay but also having to stay here for a decent meal. The menu doesn’t change so if you have limited interests or your diet is limited (like this vegetarian) it won’t be the most engaging meal but it does the trick. And the hotel does have some local craft beers from Beijing available so that was a nice “perk” (albeit expensive). (I can tell you that I did venture to another place for dinner and it was pretty dire so avoid the onsite recommendation, regardless of what food type you like. And they close around 18.00 which I still can’t get over!)

Sites

Really, is there anything else other than the Great Wall of China? I think not! The Brickyard has a map of trails for the adventurous, or they can drive you to the tourist drop-off site with ticket windows and you go up that way. There are 2 options from the drop off site: you can walk up a bunch of steps or you can take the chairlift (talk about breathtaking!). But if you are willing, and have good shoes, and are slightly in shape, I highly recommend “Trail 8” from the Brickyard. It’s a beast, and you will be winded by the time you make it to the Wall (in under 2 hours), but you will also be at the highest peak available and the walk “down” is all the more enjoyable. And the views down through the valley are like little I’ve seen. Stunning.

You can’t go to China, or Beijing, without going to the Great Wall of China. You just can’t. Sure, you can do day tours from Beijing but what I did, and what I would recommend, is that after a few days in Beijing of non-stop walking and touring, you give yourself a little bit of a respite, spend a night or two in Beigou, and really get to know the Great Wall of China.

Posted in Asia, Beigou, China | Tagged Beigou Village, Beijing, Great Wall of China, Mutianyu | Leave a comment

The rapidly disappearing old parts of the city – the hutong – are a sight to behold

Posted on 16/09/2017 by Craig

Nites

As you can imagine in a city the size of Beijing, the variety of places to stay is overwhelming. If, however, you are prepared to forego the typical chain hotel or “new kid on the block”, I would recommend that you consider the Orchid (https://www.theorchidbeijing.com/). Located in one of the cities few remaining hutong (alleyway) neighborhoods, it really is a site to behold, especially before more and more of the hutongs are overtaken for gentrification. Small in size, but big in charm and heart, the staff here will treat you as though they’ve known you for years. Because Beijing is so large, you really can only do things in this part of town but trust me when I tell you that, with three days, you can see some really amazing things.

Bites

Sadly, this time around, I don’t really have recommendations for bites but, fear not, you won’t go hungry! Check out “sites” below some suggestions

Sites

You can’t go to Beijing and not visit the various temples dotted around the city. Every travel guide book will cover these in amazing detail so I don’t need to add to it. But you must go; they are breathtaking!

If you only had one night in Beijing, I highly recommend trying to book a seat with Lost Plate (http://lostplate.com/). You and a bunch of your new friends will be whisked around the hutongs of Beijing in cool 4-person tuk tuks to a plethora of small, family run restaurants where you can try different foods (that you may not have tried on your own, or been uncertain of whether it was “safe” or not, and experience a whole new way of life. Add to the fact that they provide unlimited beer and soda, you can’t go wrong. As something of an introvert, I had the best time and literally laughed and talked about food for about 4 hours! Call this a “must do”.

Another thing that I recommend is taking a class at the Hutong (http://thehutong.com/). They offer a variety of cooking classes, tea tastings, and other historically informative tours on their website. I did the dumpling class and by the time we were finished and I had eaten more than my fair share of dumplings, my dinner reservation for that evening was no longer possible.

Beijing is a big place, with a lot to see and learn and my short 3-day visit didn’t really do it justice but I can tell you it was enough to make me want to return and explore further. I can’t wait!

Posted in Beijing | Tagged Confuscian Temple, Forbidden City, Great Wall, Great Wall of China, Hutong, Lama Temple, LostPlate Food Tour, Temple, Temple of Heaven | Leave a comment

Murano – stunning glass work and so much more!

Posted on 12/02/2017 by Craig

I have been visiting Venezia on a yearly basis, and every year includes a day in Murano: a day of strolling the canals, looking at the glass work, and occasionally strolling in to a church. But it wasn’t until this trip that I realized that there is so much more to this wonderful island and I am smitten!

Nights

Sometime in 2016 (I think), the Hotel Le Gare (http://www.lagarehotelvenezia.com/en/) opened on Murano and I have been dying to stay there since. It did not disappoint! The hotel is modern, but mixes in the famous glass of Murano, the architectural details and structures from the original building (an old furnace), and is just so welcoming and inviting that you may not want to leave.

I will also tell you that Murano is an island of two faces: during the day, it is overrun with tourists looking for that special gift to take home. But at night, when the tourists leave, this is a wonderland of solitude, and quiet, and even reflection like few other places I have ever been.

Bites

If you only have one night in Murano, be sure to book the Osteria Aquastanca (http://www.acquastanca.it/homepage-en/). It’s only a short walk from the Le Gare and the food is absolutely divine! When I arrived, the entrance was full of locals talking to the owner and the barman. And immediately after sitting down, the restaurant was joined by 2 other guests, at separate tables: one, a local woman having her dinner and another man, just returning from business, who stopped in hoping to have meal. And given that they kindly made vegetarian options for me – carcioffi (in season!) with fresh mozzarella – I knew I was in love.

Sites

Lose yourself. Wonder around. Get lost. It’s an island after all so when you see water, and if that’s not where you want to be, then turn in a different direction.

Posted in Murano | Tagged Accor hotels, acquastanca, canals, glass, italy, Le Gare Venezia, Venezia | Leave a comment

Otranto – the furtherst point east in all of Italy

Posted on 10/09/2016 by Craig

Roughly 40 minutes drive – or longer, if you continue to stop and soak in the amazing vistas across the Adriatic to Greece along the coastal road – is the lovely village of Otranto. It’s smaller than Lecce, which means that it’s smaller than many typically-viewed tourist ventures, but that doesn’t mean you shouldn’t go. In fact, you must go. Put it on your bucket list! Otranto has a vibrant centro storico and incredible food too!

Nites

As I wondered around Otranto – more specifically, the centro storico and the immediate surroundings outside the city walls – it became very apparent that whatever sort of lodging you might be searching for, you will find it: B&Bs, 2-star, 4-star, and even 5-star are all available with just a bit of searching.

I chose to stay at the Basiliani Resort and Spa (http://www.basilianiresort.com/en) which is, in all honestly, about a 10 minute walk from the centro storico. I was looking for a restful place where I could take some sun, read a lot, and just shut down from the work environment and I found it here. The staff at the Basiliani were fantastic, and the rooms, although minimalist in décor, were large, each had its own balcony of some sort, and an aesthetic that I have come to expect from Italian beach “resorts”. And so you know, the pool is huge! There are, however, a few things to be prepared for before booking: the breakfast is horrible but as long as you don’t depend on that as your only sustenance, you’ll be fine . (And hint: don’t drink the coffee from the machine but ask the staff for a cappuccino and they’ll make a decent coffee.) And they tend to “charge” for things that, at least to me, seem like they should have been included but, as long as you are prepared, you’ll be fine.

If you want something closer to the centre, I would try the Hotel Palazzo Papaleo (http://www.hotelpalazzopapaleo.com/). I seriously considered this hotel for my trip but because the Basiliani had a pool, and the Palazzo didn’t, well… The hotel looks stunning and it is centrally located within the city walls of the centro storico. I would go here in the non-sun-worshiper months!

Bites

Oh my god. The food in Otranto is outstanding and I would have stayed here longer to go back to a few places and to find more!

If I only had one night in Otranto, I would have a very tough time deciding where to dine. Ultimately, I would choose L’Altro Baffo Ristorante (http://www.laltrobaffo.com/). Reservations are imperative: they literally have a “velvet rope” preventing people from just walking so that you wait for them to approach you. But it is worth it! The wine list is impressive and the pours eye-boggling (and for next to nothing!). And the food outstanding! I would say that the food is more along the nouvo Italiano sort but it was still fresh, simple, and so incredibly flavourful: where do we get our tomatoes in the US?!

On my second night – because I would stay a second night just to eat here – I would run to Peccato di Vino (http://www.peccatodivino.com/). I say run for two very important reasons, one of which is that they don’t take reservations. I arrived shortly after opening and left over 1.5 hours later, never feeling rushed, especially when, upon leaving, I saw the throngs of people waiting to be seated! And the other reason to run here, is the food is just that outstanding and the head of the house, or the owner, I’m not sure, was so knowledgeable about wines, and what to try, that I could have stayed there forever if only my liver could have held up (and the people outside wouldn’t have shot me!) And just in case you really only have 1 night in Otranto, perhaps you could consider lunch at Peccato di Vino and dinner at L’Altro Baffo: you only live once right?!

Sites

The sites of Otranto are found in just walking. Your guidebooks and websites will tell you the things that you must see, but the things that you want to see are those things that you find where your feet take you. Whatever you do, please don’t miss the Cathedral and the Chiesa San Pietro. The Cathedral will blow your mind with the mosaic floor, much of which you can’t see up close in order to protect it, but enough of it that you can see how much love and respect went in to its creation. And the Chiesa di San Pietro, the tiny little church in a tiny little piazza has some of the most stunning byzantine artifacts I have ever seen. I literally could have stayed there for an hour, if there was room in the little church, looking at every aspect of this wonderful craftsmanship.

Otranto may not be for everyone as there really isn’t a lot to do other than to go to the beach or rest at a pool until night falls and you begin your evening with a passeggiata, and perhaps a drink at any of the many cocktail bars popping up around Puglia, and then dinner, and another post-meal stroll. It’s the way life should be, if you ask me: relaxing, with friends, and good food, and good wine, and a true respect for that which has preceded us. I’ll be back… I’ll hope you’ll follow.

Posted in Otranto, Puglia | Tagged Adriatic, antiques, Apulia, castle, cathedral, Chiesa San Pietro, greece, passeggiata, pasta, Puglia, Sorrento, vino | Leave a comment

Lecce – The so-called Florence of the south

Posted on 10/09/2016 by Craig

Halfway down the heel that is the book of Italy, you’ll find the most charming, and welcoming, city of Lecce. It’s been years since I’ve been to Lecce and upon my return, fond memories flooded back as if only a few months had passed. Often referred to as “the Florence of the south”, I think it has more to offer and is a monument of civic pride, and beauty, all unto itself.

Nites

There are quite a few options in Lecce for where to stay: from the quaint bed and breakfast to the 5-star hotels in and around the city. But honestly, because it’s so far south and I’m still uncertain how much tourism there is – or sadly, perhaps tourism is down because of last month’s horrific earthquake in central Italy – your euro will go quite far so think outside the box.

The Risorgimento Resort (http://www.risorgimentoresort.com/) could only have been better located if it is within the Roman Amphitheatre! The location alone is what makes this hotel a charmer but I’m still not sure they quite deserve a 5-star notation: the hotel is great, but it’s tired, it needs some maintenance, and this is probably the first 5-star I’ve been to without luxury toiletries (which I was hoping for, to be honest). But the breakfast was great, the staff outstanding, and the beds were divine. And the bathroom! I’ve seen apartments in NY and Paris that are smaller than the bathroom!

If the Risorgimento Resort is a bit too outside your price range, I had a one-night stay at a funky hotel just outside the city walls called Hotel 8Piu (http://www.8piuhotel.com/en). But readers be warned: the hotel photos don’t show just quite how outside the city centre the hotel is, nor that they are across the street from car dealerships and next to the strada provinciale (neither of which you can hear). But that said, the staff are amazing, the rooms quiet, and incredibly comfortable. I had read things that said, even when the lights are off, there are remnants of the funky “colour therapy” that they have in the rooms, but that wasn’t true for me. And if you stay here, be sure to ask for a room looking on to the park/gardens behind the hotel (I was in room 131).

And if money is no object, and you have a rental car (only if you want to leave either destination and go in to Lecce… which I’m not sure I would want to leave) you have to wonderful options: the Masseria Trapana (http://www.trapana.com/en/) and La Fiermontina (http://www.lafiermontina.com/). I have not had the pleasure of staying at either, but they are both definitely on my bucket list as they look stunning! And it doesn’t hurt that they’ve been getting a lot of press, arguably the most visible being in Condé Nast’s Traveler magazine (read more here: http://www.cntraveler.com/stories/2015-11-12/lecce-italian-vacation)

Bites

Puglia is known as the home of burrata and my goodness, it is better than any other place that I have ever eater this Italian wonder! Fresh, and oozy, and flavourful, and yes, my mouth is watering as I write!

If I only had one night in Lecce, I would eat at Ristorante Il Vico del Gusto (http://www.ilvicodelgusto.it/). With absolutely no exaggeration, I knew as my antipasto arrived that I wanted to return immediately. Slightly off the beaten path, which means that it’s not totally overrun with tourists, Il Vico is a proper restaurant with succulent food, accommodating staff and a chef for this vegetarian, and an absolutely wonderful wine list. This may be the sort of food that one could call “Nouvo Italiano” but that doesn’t matter because it was just that good! There were a few tables outside but, given the dry heat, I opted to sit inside and never wanted to leave! (Why did I?!)

My final night in Lecce was meant to be at Trattoria Cucina Casareccia – Le Zie (http://www.lezie.it/) but, sadly, they called the night before to let me know that there was a death in the family and they would be closed. Although I am sad for the family, this just gives me another reason to return. And, sadly, I did not listen to my gut and return to Il Vico del Gusto but, instead, went to another restaurant that isn’t worth acknowledging (despite what some of those travel sites will tell you!)

If you have a third night in Lecce, I would suggest seeking out Trattoria di Nonna Tetti. It’s an interesting little restaurant, off a side street in Lecce, with absolutely wonderful food and a nice selection of wine. My warning to readers is that 1, if you’re there when it is warm, be forewarned that despite having AC, it doesn’t work very well and you know, when you eat hot food, we get hot and…, alas, everyone was sweating quite a bit in this little restaurant with great food. The other thing to be prepared for is that they don’t have a lot of wait staff. I think this is, in part, because the place is so small and the kitchen is downstairs and there is a lot of running up and down the stairs, so service can be slow but it is worth it so, as long as you are prepared, you’ll have a wonderful evening.

Sites

Other than what your travel guide or website tells you, there really are no secret gems in Lecce. It’s an amazing place to wonder around, and simply get lost. And if you’re in to it, as I am, check out the various churches that seem to be around every corner. Talk about stunning! And when you look at the native stone that this city was built of, and you see how it has, slowly, begun to weather, you can’t help but appreciate the craftsmanship and love that the inhabitants of Lecce have put in to this city.

It’s a wonderful place, this city called Lecce, and I encourage everyone to visit and to use it as a starting point for your adventures south in to the Puglia (or Apulia) region. The food is divine, the vistas breathtaking, and with a good GPS, and stern conviction, you can find an amazing part of Italy that really is different from the more tourist trodden areas that we all (at least me) have come to know and love.

Posted in Lecce, Puglia, Uncategorized | Tagged Adriatic, Apulia, Burrata, greece, nouvo Italiano, pasta, Puglia, Sorrento, vino | Leave a comment

Asolo – a small Italian town of calm reflection

Posted on 06/03/2016 by Craig

I’m not sure what drew me to Asolo – as I could honestly spend the rest of my life in Venice or one of the smaller islands – but there was something about Asolo that brought me to this small town at the foot of the Dolomites and brought a calm over me that was much needed. Asolo is only about 1 hour away from Venice (by car or train) and for a short get away, you really can’t go wrong this tiny little hamlet.

Nites

The Albergo Al Sole (http://www.albergoalsoleasolo.com/en) is a stunning hotel just above the town square of Asolo with gorgeous views to the valley below. The lobby fireplace was a lovely respite from my rainy days in Asolo and the large balcony off the dining room was amazing: I would return just for the chance to dine on the balcony alone! The rooms are huge and the breakfast in the morning outstanding! And the staff! How fantastic were they?! Always willing to help, to advise, or just to make sure everything was to our liking. And given the size of Asolo, you truly can’t be more centrally located.

Although I didn’t stay here, but the name alone will certainly give you a sense of what to expect, the other competing hotel in Asolo is the Villa Cipriani (http://www.villaciprianiasolo.com/en/) about a 3 minute walk from the town square. The Cipriani presents everything that you expect from this Italian brand: glamour, views, and the staff in crisp suits. As I said, I didn’t stay here but I can tell you that the bar area is classic hunting lodge design and I can only imagine what it would be like outdoors in the summer.

Bites

If I only had one night in Asolo, I would go back to the Locanda Baggio da Nona (http://www.locandabaggio.it/). Although the staff’s knowledge of English was somewhat limited, and the local dialect can be a challenge, I found the food outstanding! The pasta – not on the menu but kindly created for me as a vegetarian who doesn’t like risotto – was out of this world! And the interior design was just so welcoming and charming and the staff doing their best to help the table of foreigners.

I can also highly recommend Ristorante due Mori (http://www.2mori.it/). If you look at their website, you’ll see the most stunning views of the valley below: sadly, at night in the winter, that view isn’t available but in the summer with longer days and shorter nights, I can only image what that view holds and I will return. The wine list was small but well chosen and the food was akin to a bridge between classic and modern, which I loved.

We were also fortunate to happen upon a lovely little place that was absolutely fantastic for a leisurely lunch: Pane Vino e S. Daniele (http://www.panevinospa.it/). Located on via Robert Browning, under the curved arches that make this town so charming and memorable, is what appears to be a small café when, in reality, it is a lot larger and the food simple, classic, and wonderful. They also have wines by the class that, had I had more time, I would have returned just to try a few of their recommendations. This is a keeper!

Sites

There isn’t a lot to really go and see when in Asolo itself so a car really is important. But before leaving Asolo, I highly recommend walking up the hill to the castle that overlooks the village, and the Albergo Al Sole, for the views. When I was here, the castle was closed – open only the end of March through the end of October – but from what I could see just from the outside, the views are magnificent.

Right across the small street from the Albergo Al Sole is the former villa of Robert Browning. Sadly, it is not open to the public as it is privately owned by what appears to be 4 families, but the architecture and the grounds that slope down to the town square are out phenomenal. I so want to visit!

But with a car, you can visit a number of stunning designs by the famed Italian architect, Andrea Palladio (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Andrea_Palladio). The Villa Elmo, which is roughly 25 minutes drive from Asolo (and a lovely drive at that!) is a stunning example of the work that, eventually, Thomas Jefferson became a fan of and became a reference for the US Capital building in Washington, DC.

Asolo doesn’t have the big shops that Venice does, and the town doesn’t assume so much space that you can walk for hours and hours, but Asolo does bring peace and solitude that sometimes, in this crazy and fast-paced world, we need. I will return to Asolo and maybe I’ll even see you there too, having a prosecco while sitting outside watching the world, slowly, move by.

Posted in Asolo | Tagged Asolo, Palladio, prosecco, Robert Browning, Veneto, Venezia | Leave a comment

St Petersburg – truly one of the most beautiful cities with truly lovely people that I have ever visited.

Posted on 16/01/2016 by Craig

Everyone keeps asking me “why did you go to St Petersburg” and I honestly can’t answer that other than to say “why not”? But now that I’ve gone, and returned, it is truly one of the most beautiful cities with truly lovely people that I have ever visited.

Nites

My research for hotels for my short stay in St Petersburg were extensive and you can find all levels of accommodation if you look hard enough. But if money is no object, or, if the ruble is still week to the dollar and the euro, I wouldn’t consider any other place other than the Belmond Grand Hotel Europe (http://www.belmond.com/grand-hotel-europe-st-petersburg/). And for just a little extra, splurge for a room that overlooks the park and the Cathedral of Our Savior on Spilled Blood. This is truly a stunning hotel with perfect attention to detail, very comfortable rooms and beds, and centrally located to everything that you really must see.

Bites

If I only had one night in St Petersburg, I would go to Vincent Restaurant (http://vin-cent.ru/). The website is in Russian but you can find other reviews on different sites. A wonderful wine bar situated closed to the Mariinsky Theatre, this little restaurant was an absolute joy. The staff didn’t speak English that well – but then, I don’t speak any Russian – but the menu was in English and when I asked for vegetarian options, the waitress left, and out came a manager who spoke perfect English, asked me what I wanted, and a short time later, a lovely plate of pasta with winter vegetables. And the wine list?! Hold on to your seat because the wine menu is extensive and covers wines from every region in the world!

For my vegetarian readers, I would recommend Botanika (www.cafebotanika.ru). Slightly off the beaten path, and not an interior designer’s best work, but an easy walk from the Belmond Grand Hotel, this was a wonderful with outstanding vegetarian and vegan options. And the staff! They were amazing and helpful to this goofy American!

Sites

The Hermitage (https://www.hermitagemuseum.org/wps/portal/hermitage/?lng=en). When I knew I would have the chance to visit St Petersburg, this was the one place that I had to go. And trust me when I tell you it is worth the lines and the time. Some of the art is in sad shape and desperately needs to be restored, but the history of the building, and the grandeur of the entire place is so breathtaking that this shouldn’t stop you. We spent an entire day in the original building, seeking out old friends like Caravaggio, Rembrandt, and Rubens, and then over to the adjacent building which will soon house all of the Impressionists work like their immense collections of Monet, Manet, and Van Gogh. With another day, we would have been blessed to see all of the other pieces that had to be skipped due to time constraints.

When in Russia, one must go to the ballet! The Mariinska theatre (http://www.mariinsky.ru/en/) is an amazing venue that really cannot be missed. I visited the New Mariinsky Theatre, so I can’t comment on the old (the original), but the new is out of this world with all modern features and architecture and what I would call cozy: the theatre really isn’t that large so unless you choose seats at the very top, I suspect everyone else has a good view of the stage. But a note to the reader: if you are there at any time when an outside coat is required (rain, cold, windy, etc), bring your patience. Leaving your coat at the coat check is exceptionally easy but retrieving your coat takes the patience of a monk! The lines are long, they aren’t that clearly defined, and it really is quite chaotic. But go! Book that ticket because I promise, you won’t be disappointed!

And the Cathedral of Our Savior on Spilled Blood is a must. This is quintessential Russian architecture and what this writer expected, and wasn’t disappointed. Absolutely stunning!

And although a departure from my other posts, please allow me to give a bit of insight in to getting to St Petersburg. You can fly, of course, but there’s really no fun in that. Instead, I would tell you to go to Helsinki, spend some time in this lovely city by the Gulf of Finland and the Baltic Sea and then take the train to St Petersburg. It’s only 3.5 hours and when else will you get to see the countryside of both Finland and Russia? And trust me when I tell you that, when crossing the border, it is the weirdest feeling, knowing that you are going to a country where you just may not have the same rights as you do in Europe: so close, you so far!

This really was a magical experience for me and I can’t wait to return. The short visas offered by the Russian government make it a challenge to see and do everything but even if you only had one day, it is worth the effort (which can be quite extensive!), and the time, and even the cost. I assure you, you won’t be disappointed in this city on the Baltic!

Posted in St Petersburg | Tagged ballet, Catherine the Great, Faberge, Hermitage Museum | Leave a comment

Berlin – where old meets new and a fresh look forward

Posted on 11/07/2015 by Craig

(updated 08 July 2018)

I love Berlin. You see that on shirts and mugs all over the city but I really do love it here; it’s vibrant, it’s old meets new, and the people really are some of the nicest people I’ve met in my travels. Or perhaps I should say “I love Berliners”.

Nites

I’m still on the look out for the perfect place to stay in Berlin. A while ago I found the hotel Ku’ Damm 101 (http://www.kudamm101.com/en/) which is a funky hotel in the Charlottenberg area of Berlin and I must admit that it is well located and the staff really are quite friendly. But reader beware: rooms on the lower level facing the Ku’ Damm can be quite loud so don’t accept the first room that you receive and if you aren’t happy, let them know because, speaking from experience, the traffic noise can be loud. But other than that, I like this hotel.

Bites

I am sad to say that my favourite restaurant in Berlin “d31” has now closed so it’s obvious (to me!) that I must return and find more restaurants to add to my list. But, until I do, I can still recommend these

Another recommendation that I can’t confirm, but I trust my friend so I include it here, is Weiner Beisl (http://www.wiener-beisl.de/), a charming, traditional German restaurant that if I only had one more day in Berlin, I would be trying myself.

Now, if you want what I can only describe as nouvaeu German cuisine, I would highly recommend that you go to Katz Orange (http://www.katzorange.com/en). It’s in the Mitte part of the city but you can easily get there via the U-bahn and the S-bahn, or just take a taxi. The décor is phenomenal, the staff truly helpful and informed, and the food divine. The traditional flavours of German cooking, in a more modern presentation and style. And oh so tasty!

On my return, I hope to go to eins44 (http://www.eins44.com/). I am literally obsessed by this restaurant based on the website and the menu alone. More when I return!

If you are looking for a break from what can sometimes be heavy food, I can heartily recommend Satyam (no website but the address is Grohlmanstrasse 22, 10623 Berlin-Charlottenburg; tel: 030 312 30 29) which isn’t too far from the Ku’Damm hotel and, even if it were, it is worth checking out.

Sites

I love Berlin and I love walking everywhere, and to as many things and sites as I can. Beyond what every run of the mill guidebook tells you to see, I can’t add to that other to say that this is a phenomenal people-watching city and you must take advantage of it.

Posted in Berlin | Tagged Berlin Wall, Ku'Damm, Nouveau German Cooking | 1 Comment

Taormina may be a tourist mecca but it really can’t be missed.

Posted on 26/10/2014 by Craig

Taormina is an interesting place for me, and also a bit of a quandary: it is incredibly touristy, and you are often overrun by tour groups but at the end of the day, both literally and figuratively, I do love this city and its people and think that everyone should visit at least once in their life.

Nites

Finding anything other than tour-group overrun and typical is pretty difficult in this hill-top town, if not impossible. Although it’s not the most unique hotel, I did enjoy the Hotel Monte Tauro (http://www.hotelmontetauro.it/eng/index.html). The breakfast was lovely and if you are patient and wait until the inevitable tour group that has overrun the hotel have departed – typically after 9am – you can enjoy a peaceful breakfast looking over the sea. And despite the tourists, I must admit that the rooms, and more specifically their balconies, are worth the price (although I suspect every hotel in the city has balconies with views).

Bites

Despite all its restaurants, Taormina only has one slow food movement restaurant and trust me when I tell you, it is worth the trek and you really must find it: Tischi Toschi (no website). The inside restaurant has only a few tables and the outside just as few so be sure to book in advance because it is so worth it. Thankfully, the restaurant had vegetarian options for me but the food that passed my table, regardless of what it was, smelled and looked absolutely divine. And if you only have one night in Taormina, and you go here of course, you must have the “Sicilian pesto”: a wonderful combination of oil, garlic, almonds or pistachio, and a bit more garlic. Mmmmmm.

Another find that was actually recommended by the hotel was A’Zammara (http://www.zammara.it/lang1/) which truly was fantastic. Situated on a small side street, with its own garden, the food was lovely and expertly prepared, the staff really quite sweet, and solace of being away from the hustle and bustle of the tourists a welcomed respite from it all.

Sites

I’m not sure there are really sites that can be recommended besides those that are in every possible guide book. I would, however, strongly encourage you to take a day trip to Etna, even though it is touristy, as you can, for the most part, do whatever you want, and take as much time or as little to explore and see one of the largest and most active volcanoes in Europe.

Posted in Taormina | Tagged Mt Etna, ruins, slow food movement, Taormina | Leave a comment

Siracusa – a peaceful and relaxing get-away from the craziness that can be Sicily

Posted on 26/10/2014 by Craig

Siracusa has such fond memories for me and my latest return did not let me down. The city is old, and there are parts that are falling down and in desperate need of repair, and then there are parts that are charming and inviting and, inevitably, the whole place puts a smile on my face.

Nites

In trying to find hotels that I could recommend, I happened upon the Charme Hotel Henry’s House (http://www.hotelhenryshouse.com/en) which I recommend whole-heartedly. Henry’s House is not your cookie cutter hotel so if you are looking for bland rooms and uniformed staff, this is not the place for you. But if you want the most amazing and helpful owners – the brothers were simply the best – the funkiest rooms, and some of the most amazing and stunning rooms, this is the hotel for you. I loved this hotel and can’t wait to try another room now that I’ve stayed in what I believe is affectionately called “the boat”.

If you want something that isn’t quite as funky as Henry’s House, but is still a total charmer, I would highly recommend the Algila Ortigia Charme Hotel. This is true stunner of a hotel in Ortigia and there is something about this hotel that reminds me of Alacati and the hotels and the town combined.

Bites

There are currently only two slow food movement restaurants in Siracusa (and arguably a third, but more on that in a moment). And as a fan of the slow food movement and what it is that they promote and are trying to do with their food, I am so very pleased to say that neither disappointed.

The Taberna Sveva (no website) is not far from Henry’s House and is absolutely divine! Even in late October, Siracusa is still warm so al fresco dining is possible, and encouraged, and I was fortunate enough to sit outside, gaze upon the up lit buildings and enjoy the most amazing gnocchi with pistachio cream sauce I have ever had. And as someone who really doesn’t enjoy gnocchi (I find it a tad too heavy), and on a warm night even less enjoyable, Teberna Sveva changed my mind! And kudos to the staff for, when I saw that they only had wine by the bottle and I wanted to have a glass with my dinner, they opened a bottle and gave me a glass. Thank you Taberna Sveva.

The other slow food restaurant in Siracusa that I loved and cannot stop thinking about is La Gazza Ladra (http://www.gazzaladrasiracusa.com/). Situated right in the heart of Ortigia, on the primary shopping street, this little restaurant (of 30 or so seats?) is an absolute oasis. The restaurant is adorned with kitschy photos and paintings and you won’t sit down to china and crystal stemware. But you will sit down to amazing food, much like nonna would make, that is simple, classic, and truly mouthwatering.

The third restaurant that I tried, which should arguably be a slow food restaurant was Osteria del Vecchio Ponte (no website). I honestly don’t remember how I found this restaurant, and the guys at Henry’s House had no idea about this restaurant, but it’s a short walk over the bridge from Ortigia and located on a small side street. When I arrived for my reservation, there was only one other table occupied which made me nervous. And then when I looked at the menu and everything was fish, I was more nervous. But then the owner (and chef) came over, I asked if it was a problem that I was vegetarian and he said no. But, better yet, as we were figuring out what to make, his daughter (I think), came over said she didn’t like to eat too much meat and suggested one of the pastas just without the pancetta. And it was absolutely divine: pasta, with tomatoes, zucchini, onion, garlic, and hidden beneath the pasta, the softest, most delicious soft cheese that when combined created the most amazing cream sauce I have ever had. (Yes, my mouth is watering!)

And before I forget… after dinner, as you take that lovely stroll, whether it be to your hotel or just to take in this lovely city, be sure to stop at Bel Bon. It’s a chain of gelaterie around the city but they are amazing. And if you can’t make up your mind, go with riccotta gelato. I salivate just thinking about it!

Sites

For me, the primary thing to do in Siracusa is to walk. To just stroll, people watch, and take numerous photos. But I must admit that a trip to the Parco Archeologico della Neapolis really should be on everyone’s list. When I first went to Siracusa, the park wasn’t opened so I walked the perimeter and just peered through the fences. This time, it was open and although some parts were still closed, and others not clearly marked so that I got yelled at for being somewhere that I shouldn’t have been, it was truly such an amazing experience. And yes, you must see the Ear of Dionysius (and hear everyone trying to sing and experience the echoes) but the rest of the park is just stunning and enchanting and literally takes you back to years gone by and a completely different civilization.

Posted in Siracusa | Tagged antiquities, ruins, Siracusa, slow food movement, Syracuse | Leave a comment

Sanremo, on the Ligurian coast: an era of days gone by

Posted on 20/07/2014 by Craig

Sanremo is an interesting town along the Ligurian coast that I had always wanted to visit. For a short visit, it’s a lovely place. For anything longer than 4 days, I would tell you to visit other places with more to do, and more to see. In a perfect world, and if you are the daring type, I’d tell you to rent a car and spend a couple of weeks just driving along the Ligurian coast and stopping along the way; it really is that stunning!

Nites

There are handful of 4-star hotels in Sanremo but none have direct beach access. (Until 10 years ago, the train tracks were between the beach and the hotels but with the relocation of the trains in the mountains, there is now a wonderful bike and pedestrian track between the hotels and the beach.) I chose the Hotel de Paris Sanremo (www.hoteldeparissanremo.it) and loved it. As I always recommend, it is best to write to the hotel directly – rather than through hotel aggregator sites – and describe what you want and see what they offer. Case in point: although I couldn’t afford the direct sea view rooms, I was offered a room with a partial view. When I arrived, I was given a room with no sea view, I showed my reservation, and voila, I was given a room with a partial sea view that made me happy every day! The hotel is very old school with modern touches like the TVs and the bathrooms. And for that added little start to the day, the breakfast buffet was actually quite a lovely start to the day.

Bites

For pizza, one of the staff at the Hotel de Paris recommended Pizzeria Spaccanapoli (wwwpizzeriaspaccanapoli.it) which was phenomenal. You won’t find anything other than pizza here, but the numbers that they offer are staggering!

Another find that a staff member at the Hotel de Paris suggested was Osteria Camelot (osteriacamelot.it) which is in the old town, but not hiking up to the Pigna and the gardens. The food is simple and the décor equally as simple but I really liked the food here. There is a house wine that, I have to tell you, is nothing more than bottled wine from Coop, a chain supermarket in Italy. They do have wine by the bottle, and a wine list as well, so if you can afford it, I would recommend that you ask for the wine list. But don’t let the supermarket wine as the house wine stop you from going here.

But if you only have one night in Sanremo, you absolutely must go to Taverna al 29 (www.tavernaal29.com). This a small restaurant, that is closed on Sundays and Wednesdays, and is a bit of show (more on that soon), but the food was absolutely divine, the bread incredible, the wine list small but spectacular, and the house-made “grappa” a sweet touch. The owner of the restaurant is very sweet and I heard him speak Italian, French, German, and of course Italian. He is the showman and likes to toast with his guests when they first sit down and are offered a house-made “spritz” of prosecco and lavender syrup. (I saw him sip from the same glass for the first part of the night but, I suppose, if he was drinking along with everyone, he would be drunk by the end of the evening!) I would definitely go out of my way to return to Taverna al 29!

Sites

There really aren’t many sites that you need to seek and find: most people come to Sanremo for the sea. The number of “beach clubs” along the coast is truly staggering! They pretty much all offer the same thing: a combination of entrance fee, beach bed, umbrella, and maybe a chair. Why there is a difference in price, I can’t really say so just find the “beach club” that speaks to you and go with it. And whatever you do, be sure to watch for signs that say “no picnic”; they won’t tolerate you bring water or even fruit on to their beach because they want you to buy their food. I found Euro Nettuno Beach and for only 10.50 euro, I had entrance and a beach bed and no hassle for bringing my own water. (14.00 euro if you want to add an umbrella.)

Walking up and through the Pigna is a wonderful trip and the views from the top are amazing. But what I enjoyed most about this endeavor was the opportunity to see how people live, and the walk that they do on a daily basis (regardless of where they have parked their car in the periphery).

As mentioned above, the former train tracks along the coast have now been transformed to a bike and pedestrian path and had I had more time, I may have actually taken a ride along the coast. The Hotel de Paris offers bike rentals and right across from the hotel is a little outfit that also offers bike rentals by the hour or half day. If you’re feeling athletic, or you need to justify that extra gelato the day before, this is the activity for you.

Posted in Sanremo | Tagged beaches, Italian, italy, Ligurian coast, San Remo, Sanremo | Leave a comment

Bern Switzerland – the capital of an amazing country that acts more like a welcoming village

Posted on 09/02/2014 by Craig

I must admit that I have never visited Bern before, nor even thought about it. I guess the largesse that is Zurich and Lausanne just overshadows what is truly an amazing town. But if your travels give you the chance – whether from traveling around Switzerland or taking a side-trip from Northern Italy – you really should add this to your itinerary. It will only require a few days, but I promise it will be a few days well-spent.

Nites

Although only my first trip to Bern, I would say that there are definite gaps between hotel ratings in this small yet charming city. There are 2 five star hotels and if money is no object, I would tell you to stay at the Hotel Bellevue. I didn’t stay here, so I can’t vouch for the rooms, but I did have drinks here and the décor is amazing and I probably wouldn’t want to leave.

The four star hotels are a step down from the five and I’m not just stating the obvious: the four stars tend to be a bit more rustic and “stereotypical” of what I would expect from a swiss hotel. I stayed at the Belle Epoque (http://www.belle-epoque.ch/hotel-bern/en/) and although not cheap – nothing is in Bern, or Switzerland for that matter – I really liked it. The rooms were big and the staff really quite kind. The one thing I noticed, which you should be aware of if traveling in the summer, is that the hotel does not have air conditioning. I don’t like AC myself, but the large fan in the room and the windows facing outward could make for a noisy night. So, beware: if it’s hot, there’s no AC and if you go, ask for a room NOT facing the street.

Bites

As I said above, nothing in Bern is cheap but I certainly did enjoy the hospitality of my friends and can recommend a few places for a wonderful meal.

I loved Verdi (http://www.bindella.ch/gastronomie/ueberblick-ristoranti/restaurant/verdi-ristorante/26/show/) and although not Italian pasta like you get in Italy, it really was lovely. What helps, without a doubt, is the décor which is charming, funky, and just incredibly inviting. If you have only one night in Bern, this is where I would go.

If you are searching for something a bit more affordable, Restaurant Zunft zu Webern (http://www.restwebern.ch/). The staff were incredibly kind and given that I was hankeringfor spaetzle, and the hotel kindly called and asked them to make it for me, how can you go wrong? The restaurant didn’t really offer much in terms of décor, but it was packed with locals – I heard no English – so it had to have been good.

I was also fortunate enough to be taken to Jack’s Brasserie in the Hotel Schweizerhof (http://www.schweizerhof-bern.ch/). The food was good and when served by waiters in white coats, how can you go wrong? And for a Sunday brunch, I thought it was a perfect setting.

I didn’t eat here – but I hear it is amazing – but I did come here for a drink on my last night in Bern: the Kornhaus keller (http://www.bindella.ch/gastronomie/ueberblick-ristoranti/restaurant/kornhauskeller/4/show/). This is just a stunning place and even if you don’t want a drink, or to have dinner, just pop in and take a look, or a picture, and it will be permanently etched in your memory. What a stunning place!

Sites

I’m not typically one for guided tours but my friends arranged for a tour of the city through the Tourism Office. It was a cold and rainy/snowy day, as it often is in Bern, and so, on a whim, my guide asked if I wanted to go in to the clock tower. Yes, I enthusiastically replied. Although large groups can’t go in, and those afraid of heights and small places might want to reconsider, I loved it and it was definitely a highlight of my tour. So, if you have the chance, go up the clock tower. You won’t regret it.

Posted in Bern | Tagged bears, bern, charming, quaint, switzerland, village | Leave a comment

Cortona Italy – Cortona and the villa near it are truly one of the most amazing finds I have ever made.

Posted on 29/12/2013 by Craig

The name “Cortona” brings a smile to my face every time I hear it. And if anyone ever asks for a special place to visit, a place to unwind, or just a place to spend a night on their way to any other place in Italy, I readily tell them to go here. This is part of the Italy that I fell in love with and dream of nightly. This is the Italy that everyone should truly visit at least once in their lives because it is not Rome, it is not Florence, and it is not Milano. It is, quite simply, Cortona. And this is the place where I first learned what a linden tree is, and how a scent can take me back to a special place instantly.

Nites

There really is only one place to stay: the Villa di Piazzano (http://www.villadipiazzano.com/en/). Located close to Pergo and part of Cortona, this villa is a dream location. The owners and staff our truly unmatched, the rooms fantastic, and the surrounding area and pool just phenomenal. Really, look nowhere else!

Bites

One of the best meals I ever had was at the Villa di Piazzano: I arrived late, was too tired to drive up to Pergo and just wanted a small meal. Kindly, the owners of the hotel told me to take a seat outside – even though they were having a private dinner party with friends – and in a few minutes, a lovely plate of cheese, bread, pears, honey and white wine was before me. To this day, I don’t think there is anything better to eat for dinner!

If pizza is what you seek, I highly recommend Birrificio Cortonese (http://www.birrificiocortonese.com/). Located in Cortona and surrounded by shops, this was an unpretentious, but delicious find and my mouth drools just thinking about it now. (And I think there is a gelato shop almost next door that is ridiculous!)

Sites

I first went to Cortona to mountain bike and although there aren’t specific mountain biking trails, the fire roads leading through the countryside and around are fairly easy to navigate and worth renting bikes and exploring. (And I have no sense of direction so if I can d it, you can do it.) The same fire roads are the perfect place to go for a stroll or a jog.

Posted in Cortona | Tagged best hotel, cortona, hiking, italy, linden, mountain biking, relax, tuscany | Leave a comment

Athens Greece – Athens is probably one of the top 10 places that everyone should visit once in their life.

Posted on 29/12/2013 by Craig

I absolutely adore Athens and this city has fond memories despite the economic changes, and the troubles that the Greeks are experiencing. I’ve heard people say that Athens – and Greece in general – is not safe. I say you are wrong! Never have I met a more welcoming and kind country and its people than I have in Athens and Greece as a whole.

Nites

When traveling to Athens, there are 2 hotels that I can highly recommend. The first is the St George (http://www.sglycabettus.gr/default-en.html) on the Lycabettus hill. The hotel is situated in a lovely residential area and only a short stroll downhill to everything that one must see while in Athens. And best of all: the evening views from the rooftop to the Acropolis are breathtaking and magical.

The other hotel that I absolutely adore is the Ochre and Brown, now called O&B, (http://www.oandbhotel.com/) which is located in an up-and-coming part of Athens. Centrally located, although without the views that many hotels rely on, the rooms are outstanding, the staff incredible, and the shops and sites right outside your door are unparalleled.

Bites

(coming soon)

Sites

I was fortunate enough to visit Athens right after the Acropolis Museum (http://www.theacropolismuseum.gr/en) first opened. And now it is the place that I immediately return to every time I am in Athens. When approaching the entrance, you will walk on plexiglass that reveals ruins beneath your feet that are absolutely stunning and amazing. The exhibit, itself, will leave your breathless but it is the outdoor patio you that you must be sure to visit before leaving: the views are incredible, from 360 degrees, and the architecture absolutely stunning.

And although I know everyone comes to Athens to visit the Acropolis – which you must do, no matter how tired you are – the meandering streets up the hill are a site to behold as well. Yes, you will be pestered to shop here, eat here, and drink here, but if you just ignore the harassment and take in the sites and daily life, it really is unlike anything else that you will ever see. Literally, I could spend hours walking these streets and taking everything in.

Posted in Athens | Tagged athens, greece, lovely hotel, ruins | Leave a comment

Porto Cervo – If money is no object, this is the place for you. But you should still go, if even on a budget!

Posted on 29/12/2013 by Craig

I loved Porto Cervo. The wealth and presumably complete disregard for the cost of anything is amazing and a true site to behold. Would I live here? Perhaps if I could afford it but there are also other places in Sardegna that I would probably choose first. But, that said, you must go. It really is a stunning and enchanting place that everyone should visit at least once in their lives.

Nites

If you aren’t staying on a yacht, there are plenty of hotels in and around Porto Cervo. Le Ginestre Hotel (http://www.leginestrehotel.com/) is a lovely hotel laid out in various buildings within what I think is a gorgeous pine grove. The rooms are fantastic, and all come with a balcony or patio and, if possible, request a patio: there is nothing like being able to walk outside and relax with nature.

Bites

(coming soon)

Sites

There really isn’t a lot to do in the Costa Smeralda unless you have a boat (really a yacht!). But if relaxation and people watching are your cup of tea, this is the place for you. And I must admit, I had a brilliant time people watching! Nestled against the port for million dollar yachts to doc is a recently built mall. But this is no ordinary mall and you won’t find a Gap or even a Macy’s-type store. No, this is where all the high-end designers and jewelers congregate because, who doesn’t need another pair of heals or trousers for their next port of call?!

If catching rays in what you hope to do here, the Le Ginestre Hotel has a great pool, as do all hotels in the Costa Smeralda, but what I loved is that, after a 15 minute stroll through the “forest,” the hotel has their own private beach. Few people wanted to walk “this far” so the beach was quiet, relaxing, and the perfect place to read and nap.

Posted in Porto Cervo/Costa Smeralda | Tagged people watching, port town, porto cervo, relax, sardinia, short trip | 2 Comments

Oxford UK – The tranquility that is Oxford

Posted on 29/12/2013 by Craig

(updated 12 October 2018)

I love Oxford and although I work for a company based there, don’t let that fool you: the town is amazing, the people really quite kind, and the variety of restaurants truly outstanding. And like Cambridge, it is a wonderful respite from London yet easily reached via public transport.

Nites

One of my top 5 hotels in the world to stay at has got to be the Feathers Hotel (http://www.feathers.co.uk/) just outside of Oxford in Woodstock. It doesn’t look like much from the outside, but once inside, you honestly won’t want to leave. Not only are you greeted by the calming smell of a fireplace, but the old homey wood paneling is breathtakingly stunning.

If you want to stay in “downtown” Oxford, there are a number of options, my favourite being The Old Bank Hotel (http://www.oldbank-hotel.co.uk/). I love the boutique feel of this hotel and the rooms are outstanding!

Another cool and chic find is the Mailmaison Oxford (http://www.malmaison.com/locations/oxford/?gclid=CPGmzaP-5rsCFVLxOgodcRsAeA). I’ve yet to actually stay here, but friends have, and they say that reuse of the old jail cells in to rooms is really quite stunning. There is a modern wing but if you’re going to stay here, splurge for the jail cell rooms! (And the restauran and outside bar are amazing and worth the trip alone!)

My favourite old school boutique hotel is the Old Parsonage Hotel (http://www.oldparsonage-hotel.co.uk/). There is just something that says home at this tony hotel. I’ve actually been tempted not to leave and rather stay in and read, write, eat, and drink.

A new hotel that I am literally salivating over and obsessed with is the Vanbrugh House Hotel (http://www.vanbrughhousehotel.co.uk/) in the heart of Oxford just off the main shopping street. The hotel is to be complimented on their photographer alone because their website has me hooked. And the interior design is tranquil and calm and the staff the epitome of hotel hospitality. This hotel is the reason I prefer small boutique hotels rather than larger corporate locations.

Bites

I may have truly fallen in love with a pub that actually is vegetarian only: The Gardner’s Arms (http://www.thegarden-oxford.co.uk/). The pub has a full bar which is fantastic and the fact that they offer veggie burgers, veggie dogs with veggie chili, and other wonderful treats made this an easy decision on 3 occasions when I was last in Oxford. It’s comfort food, at its best!

The Standard (http://www.standardoxford.com/) on Walton Street, not far from Oxford University Press was absolutely amazing! As a vegetarian, I seek out palak paneer and I must say, this restaurant had the best palak paneer ever. The “sauce” was perfect and not too greasy, the paneer cut in to perfectly sized pieces, and the spices sheer perfection. Truly, I would fly back to Oxford right now just to eat here again!

Outside of Oxford, in Headington (a short trip on the bus or a taxi), is the The Black Boy (http://www.theblackboy.uk.com/) which I went to years ago, loved, and can’t believe that I forgot about until now! I love this restaurant and pub: the pub part is great for a pint with friends but then, you pass the bar and there is lovely dining area that is chic, delicious, and not anything remotely like a pub. And the food? Outstanding and definitely memorable! Head the the Black Boy as soon as you can!

Sites

(coming soon)

Posted in Oxford | Tagged best hotel, historic sites, oxford, relax, UK, United Kingdom | Leave a comment

Cambridge UK – The perfect escape from the insanity that is London

Posted on 29/12/2013 by Craig

I love Cambridge and could easily spend days here just wondering and taking in all of the scenery. I also love Cambridge because it is the perfect escape from the insanity that I feel and find when in London.

Nites

When you go to Cambridge, and you need one of the best hotels I have ever stayed out, you must stay at Hotel Felix (http://www.hotelfelix.co.uk/). The rooms are amazing, whatever “level” of room you choose, and given that it is within easy commute to all things that you want to see and do, choose nothing else.

Bites

(coming soon)

Sites

(coming soon)

Posted in Cambridge | Tagged cambridge, historic sites, relax, UK, United Kingdom | Leave a comment

Bergamo Italy – A tranquility and joy of life that we should all aspire to

Posted on 03/12/2013 by Craig

To say that I am enamored with Bergamo is an understatement. There is tranquility, a vibrancy, a friendliness, and a peacefulness in this hilltop town that no one word can adequately describe. Because a university is situated in the upper city – the città alta – the streets in the afternoon are often filled with joyful laughter and a love of life that is, quite simply, infectious. But then, when school is out and the city returns to its familial center, the streets are a calm respite from the more cacophonous città bassa below that welcomes you to stroll, and meander and most importantly relax. And don’t forget: if you don’t want to get too relaxed, Milano is only a 50 minute train ride away!

Nites

A new edition to the Design Hotel group of hotels is the Gombithotel (http://www.gombithotel.it/en/) located just in the center of the città alta. This lovely little hotel, that has a passion for all thing Vespa, only has 13 rooms which further adds to the tranquility of this city. Although the windows aren’t the most sound-proofed windows I’ve ever had in a hotel room, the city is quiet enough – except for the tolling of the bells every hour – that I didn’t have a problem getting a restful night’s sleep every night I was there.

If a design hotel with a love of all things Vespa isn’t your style, I had a drink in the Relais San Lorenzo (http://www.relaisanlorenzo.com/) a member of the Small Luxury Hotel group and it looked gorgeous. Whereas that Gombithotel is kind of funky and cool, the Relais is a more laid back, classic type of business hotel that some might prefer. Either way, you can’t go wrong with great accommodations in Bergamo.

Bites

For such a small town, the number of options for dining is truly outstanding.

For a quick bite – whether that be a panino, a slice of pizza, or just a dolce – Il Fornaio on via Colleoni 3 was a dream come true for a hungry tummy. Further down the “street” is another place that, around noon, will be slammed with hungry students. I never got in the door, that’s how crowded it was, so I suspect their lunchtime options are just as good.

But it was the dinner I was after and I can recommend with overwhelming enthusiasm the follow three establishments.

Vineria Cozzi (www.vineriacozzi.it) was an absolute gem with the most lovely staff. Decorated in what can best be described as “cottage-like” the pasta was superb and the recommendation of the truffled cheese and egg “soup” leaves my mouth watering as I write.

A second suggestion, and probably one of the most famous restaurants in the città alta is Da Mimmo (www.ristorantemimmo.com), also on Via B Colleoni. Situated on 2 levels, with tables covered in white linen, the restaurant can have the appearance of being overly pretentious but don’t be fooled. This is the home of the first pizzeria in città alta and has its own dedicated menu of pizzas so how pretentious can it be right? Not at all! The staff are outstanding and when the waitress suggested that I should try the house-made mozzarella, I nearly fell out of my chair. (And, yes, once again I am salivating as I write!). And that little welcome drink of prosecco goes miles in my book.

And if you are looking for something a little off the beaten path – but don’t worry, you won’t get lost – I enthusiastically endorse La Colombine (www.trattorialacolombina.it). Upon being seated and after gazing out the huge plate-glass window down to the citta bassa – there’s an outdoor balcony that I can only imagine must be breathtaking in warmer weather! – the waitress asked if I wanted a menu in English or Italian. Since we have only been speaking Italian I jokingly said, “Italian, of course” to which she replied that, because the restaurant specializes in traditional and typical Bergamo cuisine “Italians don’t always understand the menu.” Love it! And yes, the food was outstanding: I’m not a fan of gnocchi but the gnocchi with taleggio sauce was light, airy, and may possibly have made me a convert to the world of gnocchi!

Sites

Bergamo doesn’t exactly have the sort of sites that a Rome, an Athens, or an iStanbul has but the one thing that you must do is you must take the funicular up the mountain to San Vigilio. The ruins of the castle are interesting but honestly won’t blow you away. What will take your breath away, however, is the walk down. Your inner billy goat may come out but it is worth the walk.

And with that, I hope that you will plan that trip to Bergamo, if even for just a long weekend. There is truly something medieval about this quiet, yet vibrant little town that has, overnight, endeared itself to me as a place I already want to return to.

Posted in Bergamo | Tagged amazing food, antiquities, bergamo, italy, peace | 2 Comments

Vienna Austria – The sounds of kindness and warm-heartedness abound

Posted on 28/09/2013 by Craig

I love Vienna. (Yes, insert the Ultravox classic, if you must!) The city is clean, the people are kind and helpful, the public transport is nearly perfect (the CAT train doesn’t quite run early enough for those early am flights out of Vienna), and the food really coming in to its own. If you haven’t been, you must go. And if you’ve been, please return: it is nearly Europe’s most perfect city!

Nights

A couple of years ago, the Hotel Daniel (http://www.hoteldaniel.com/en/vienna.html) took over an old office building and converted it in to a cool, funky urban retreat right next to the Beveldere gardens. This isn’t your Turkish rug covered, “we have Frette sheets,” nor even “breakfast included” sort of place, but rather, a modern, industrial, and funky retreat that is also comfortable. And if you can swing the hammock room, do it: it has a hammock in the room!

If old-world Vienna is more your style and money no object, I would stay at the Steigenberger Hotel Herrenhof (http://www.steigenberger.com/en/Wien?source=USSH0) as you can’t beat the location and the rooms are divine. And the fact that Café Central is just around the corner, not to mention Café Demel, you truly can’t go wrong!

And if you are looking for something a bit more traditional, yet not in the same price range as the Steigenberger, check out the Hotel Alstadt Vienna (http://www.altstadt.at/en/) a tried and true hotel in the city. The rooms are comfortable, if not over the top, and the staffs are fantastic and very helpful.

And although I haven’t stayed here, a friend suggested the Levante Laudon (http://www.thelevante.com/laudon/de/superior.html) which looks fantastic and a great place to make your home away from home.

Bites

Tian restaurant (http://www.tian-vienna.com/en) is one of the best restaurants I have ever had the pleasure of dining in, in my entire life. And the fact that it is vegetarian is gives it double points! Vegetarian or not, you must go once in your life. In my opinion, this restaurant deserves at least 1 Michelin Star! The wait staff are outstanding – and everything dressed in shades of lavender add to the experience – the small but inviting room outstanding, and the food absolutely divine. It won’t be the cheapest meal you’ll have in Vienna – that’s for the street-corner stands which shouldn’t be avoided either – but it will be one of the best meals you will have. (Note: a wine bar is planned to open downstairs of Tian and if looks alone are enough to judge, this will be a smashing success!)

Another fantastic vegetarian restaurant, only a short ride on the u-bah is Hollered (http://www.hollerei.at/). Hollered is in something of a residential neighborhood but when I went, it was filled with locals, and packed, and the food just sublime! This restaurant is a bit more rustic and casual but makes the food no less delectable.

Near St Stephen’s cathedral, but not so near as to be a tourist haven, if Fabio’s (http://fabios.at/de/fabios-restaurant-bar-wien.html). As anyone who follows this blog, they know that I can’t go a few days without pasta and this restaurant met my needs to the umpteenth degree! The burrata was a special, not listed on the menu and the pasta pure perfection: the portions weren’t too large, it was perfectly al dente, and the arrabiata just spicy enough! And if you want an after-dinner drink: the small bar scene was hoppin’!

Another restaurant in the city center that I adore is the Restaurant Ofenloch (http://www.restaurant-ofenloch.at/en/). I went here with friends and had fantastic Austrian wines, brilliant food, and a non-rushed service which was perfect for catching up and just enjoying the meal.

For a bit of classic Vienna, I would suggest Pfarrwirt (http://www.pfarrwirt.com/). You can easily take public transport out of the city center to this wonderful old house with great, classic Austrian dishes.

And a trip to Vienna wouldn’t be complete without some sweets. There is the classic Sachertorte at the Hotel Sacher but for me, a trip to Vienna isn’t complete without a trip to Café Central (see above) or Café Demel (http://www.demel.at/en/index_en_flash.htm). Is there anything better than coffee and sweets under chandeliers served by men and women in starched coats?

Sites

Every guidebook will tell you about the major sites to see so I won’t repeat them. But I will tell you that stroll through the Belvedere gardens should not be missed! And if you wallet permits, a night at the opera is not to be missed. The Stadthopper may be a bit smaller than some of the other classic opera houses in the world, but that doesn’t mean the performance is any the less. And if you can follow the opera by a bit of Sachertorte and a drink, you have then experienced my perfect Vienna evening!

And with that, I hope you enjoy your trip to Vienna. It really is an amazing city and one that should not be missed, but rather enjoyed often! Safe travels!

Posted in Vienna | Tagged architecture, austria, great food, opera, vienna | Leave a comment

Yalikavak Turkey – It’s not Bodrum, but a better neighbor

Posted on 31/08/2013 by Craig

(updated 07 September 2015)

If you are over the age of 25, Bodrum isn’t the place for you. And by a happy misunderstanding, I happened upon Yalikavak, approximately 18 km over the hill and around the bend, for a relaxing and amazing holiday experience.

Nights

Okay, so I’m going to start off with my complaint, and that’s pretty much because I just looked at their website again (so that I can provide it to you) and remembered what my issue was. The 4Reasons Hotel (http://www.4reasonshotel.com/) states on their website “a hip, small, luxury boutique hotel in Bodrum.” Traveler beware: they are NOT in Bodrum. They are in Yalikavak and it will take you about 40 minutes to arrive, and cost you 110 TL to get there and back if you don’t have a car. So be forewarned. But truly, if this is the only flaw that I can note – and it is! – then this is where you want to stay!

The above said, however, I loved this hotel! The staff were amazing, the rooms lovely, and depending on what room type you choose – I had the Passionate, even though I was traveling alone, simply because I wanted a large room with a view to the sea – it can be the perfect vacation location. Within 45 minutes you can walk down to the beach and rent the requisite sun bed and umbrella but, really, why? The pool is amazing and peaceful! And since the previous writing in 2014, the rooms have been updated with larger beds and a lovely banquet along the right-hand wall that is far more functional than the 2 wicker chairs that used to be in the room.

P.S. If an all-inclusive place to stay is what you want, there are a number lining the road to Bodrum. I can’t vouch for any of these, but here are some options that you can investigate further: Club Blue Dreams, Rixos (looks like Vegas!), Golden Savoy (another that looks like Vegas!) and Kervanesse (I think that is the spelling).

Bites

If you’ve read any of my other blog posts, you will know that I prefer not to eat at hotel restaurants. As luck would have it, my first night in Yalikavak, I didn’t have a reservation so I stayed at the hotel and ate at their restaurant. What a joy! The views to the sea were stunning, the soft jazz a perfect accompaniment, and the food truly outstanding! By the time I arrived here, I had already started to go through pasta withdraw so how happy was I to see their version of pasta with 4 cheese sauce? The pasta was cooked perfectly, and the different cheeses than what I was used to was a happy experience.

But don’t stay here every night (although you could). Walk down to Yalikavak and you will find the “boardwalk” lined with all variety of restaurants.

Although I didn’t eat here, I met two fellow travelers who ate at Sofi’s and they said it was outstanding. Apparently, there was a “show” of belly dancers and whatnot, which I wouldn’t have enjoyed, but if that’s your thing, I trust their judgment.

I opted to go to Elma Restaurant a lovely small restaurant on the water where I was shown the kitchen and some of the dishes that the chef could make for this vegetarian. When last in Yalikavak, Elma had closed but I am pleased to see that it has reopened, perhaps in a new location, so stay tuned.

1 new find, which I think is also new to the Yalikavak dining scene is Giggles (https://www.facebook.com/pages/Giggles/239981516202222) which was an absolute dream recommendation from the Four Reasons. The night of our reservation, there was some confusion about a rental car we arranged and, as we passed by, the staff asked if I was Mr Panner, I said I was, and he said that Ali from the Four Reasons (Ali is the best!) was coming to meet us, and that Giggles would hold our table until we were finished! 1 hour late, we returned and the mezze were phenomenal and the pasta and fish outstanding. And the staff?! They were so nice and attentive that, on subsequent nights when just passing the restaurant, they would wave and smile. Love it!

And very new to the restaurant scene in Yalikavak is Ege Restaurant (https://www.facebook.com/Egerestaurantbar) as it has only been open for a couple of months. Once again, Ali from the Four Reasons recommneded this (in place of another reservation we had) and it was incredible. I tell you, make this the first restaurant you run to when you arrive in Yalikavak! Situated on the water front, with lovely views out to the sea, are reason enough to run to this restaurant. But then the mezze selection is simply over-the-top incredible! My friend had the catch of the day and couldn’t stop raving about how tasty it was and utterly perfect. And for this vegetarian… I was a very happy boy; they didn’t have anything on the menu for a vegetarian (other than more mezze) so the owner, Esat – an incredibily lovely and helpful man – said “leave it with me” and I did. And up comes a lovely tomato and cucumber salad and although not much, I would have been fine with that. But then comes the most incredible pizza/flat bread type things that I have ever seen, nor eaten. I can’t really describe them, but I can tell you that I am drooling about them right now. And still smiling! Love. This. Restaurant.

Sights

I can’t comment on Bodrum and couldn’t even fathom to venture over there – crowds aren’t my thing I’m afraid – so I’ll leave it to you to venture out and explore.

The one thing that you must do is take a bus tour to Pamukkale. Your hotel may try and arrange a private car service but, to be honest, it’s a long haul and you see a lot of villages and nothing else, so why not take the cheaper route and do a bus tour? Traveler be warned however: it takes about 4.5 hours to get to Pamukkale from Bodrum, and they stop along the way for a “break,” a carpet tour, and “lunch,” but as long as you know what you are getting in to, it’s worth it.

Since I’ve been to Pamukkale before, and absolutely loved it, and recommend that everyone go at least once in their lives, I now have more insight! On my second return, I opted for the rental car option with a GPS. You can do an organized tour as described above but I honestly thought the car option was better. But be warned: GPS in Turkey is not the best and we were often concerned that we were lost and it took a bit longer to drive than the tour bus did, but it was worth it. My recommendation: pay attention to how you arrive at your hotel – if I hadn’t, I may still be driving around! – print maps from home that you understand, and be prepared for an adventure!

Pamukkale and the ruins around it are absolutely stunning and even though it may be 105F/43C, the sheer beauty and natural wonder of the place will make it all worthwhile! And for about $15, you can wade in an ancient pool that is supposed to cure some of our ailments. (I didn’t do it because it looked overpriced and not worth the crowd!)

So Yalikavak isn’t in Bodrum. And so it may be a “suburb” albeit a hike away. Don’t hold it against them and go here for further recharging. And if you need a bit of culture, do the trip to Pamukkale: it’s worth your time and a numb butt!

Posted in Yalikavak (Bodrum) | Tagged beach, Pamukkale, recharge, ruins, turkey, yalikavak | Leave a comment

Fethiye Turkey – The perfect place to relax and unwind

Posted on 31/08/2013 by Craig

I can’t really put my finger on what it was about Fethiye that I loved. It may have been the peaceful, small-town vibe, or the lovely people, I really don’t know, but I want to return and wish that I had spent more than 3 days here.

Nights

I am obsessed with the Yacht Classic Hotel (http://www.yachtclassichotel.com/). This hotel is located a tad outside of the “city centre” but given that Fethiye is so small, it really doesn’t matter. Many of the rooms have sea views but to enjoy the full experience, you must reserve a room facing the seah. Oh my god it is gorgeous! Going to bed and waking up to the sea is like no other experience if you ask me. And the breakfast is absolutely amazing (and there’s no need to pay the extra for an ommelette.)

Nest door to the Yacht Classic Hotel is the Ece Saray Marina and Resort Hotel (http://www.ecesaray.net/). This is the most expensive hotel in the city (and if you look at their homepage, on the right, to the right of the pool, you will see the Yacht Classic Hotel). I took a peak inside one evening and it is stunning so for all out luxury, this is the place for you.

Bites

The only thing that prevents me from returning immediately and staying longer is that the food options in Fethiye are pretty dim. The Yacht Classic recommended the roof top restaurant at their sister hotel, the Yacht Boutique Hotel (on the other side of the Ece Saray!) and I should have listened! The restaurants that I went to on my first 2 nights don’t bear mentioning: everything was just uninspired and no different from anything that I could make on my own. And many of the restaurants are crowded together so it’s hot, and sticky, and just not enjoyable.

But the rooftop restaurant at the Yacht Boutique is divine! The views were amazing – but I had the view every morning and night – so that’s not what made it exceptional but it was the food. They had Turkish, Indian, and I think even a bit of Italian and it was all just absolutely to die for! I should have gone here every evening!

I did hear that the restaurant at the Yacht Classic Hotel was quite good but since I was staying here, I wanted to go someplace different. When I return, I will definitely try it out and let you know!

Sights

There really isn’t much to see or do in Fethiye to be honest. But if you need to unwind, relax, and recharge, this is the place for you.

The boardwalk, if you will, along the sea is lit at night with lots of neon and displays it really is a lovely way to end your evening with a stroll and a breeze.

Nearly everything you read will tell you that you need to go to the blue lagoon. Don’t. It really isn’t worth it and is just a tourist trap. You’ll need to take an overcrowded dolmus to the beach, then pay to enter the park (10TL I think), and then 15TL to rent a sun bed and umbrella. And although I am not one for crowds, this place took it to a whole new level: the sun beds were so close together that I could literally reach out and touch the couple next to me, that’s how jammed the beds were! So stay at your hotel and avoid the crowds.

And there you go. Like I said, I can’t really explain what it was about Fethiye that I loved but I did and I cant wait to return! I hope you enjoy it too!

Posted in Fethiye | Tagged fethye, ocean breeze, relax, sea, turkey | Leave a comment

This town, Thalpe, along with Galle Fort to the east, have made me fall in love with Sri Lanka.

Close enough to Yala National Park for the perfect safari

Colombo works in all of its magic and intertwined wonder.

Torcello – during the day it is a day-tripper’s dream and a night it is calm oasis of nature sounds and the occasional lapping water along the canal sides.

I am in love with Bergen. I can’t say anything more than it’s been some time since I’ve been to a place that is this inviting, the people this welcoming, and the food this outstanding.

Shanghai – the new, modern China that is probably more “western” than any other place I visited.

Hangzhou/West Lake – a wonderful, relaxing, lake-side retreat to recharge and recenter before your next stop in the mad-packed land that is China.

Chengdu – pandas, not to mention a laid back city (for China) but also one of the fastest growing and inviting cities.

The perfect place to see the Great Wall of China

The rapidly disappearing old parts of the city – the hutong – are a sight to behold

Murano – stunning glass work and so much more!

Otranto – the furtherst point east in all of Italy

Lecce – The so-called Florence of the south

Asolo – a small Italian town of calm reflection

St Petersburg – truly one of the most beautiful cities with truly lovely people that I have ever visited.

Berlin – where old meets new and a fresh look forward

Taormina may be a tourist mecca but it really can’t be missed.

Siracusa – a peaceful and relaxing get-away from the craziness that can be Sicily

Sanremo, on the Ligurian coast: an era of days gone by

Bern Switzerland – the capital of an amazing country that acts more like a welcoming village

Cortona Italy – Cortona and the villa near it are truly one of the most amazing finds I have ever made.

Athens Greece – Athens is probably one of the top 10 places that everyone should visit once in their life.

Porto Cervo – If money is no object, this is the place for you. But you should still go, if even on a budget!

Oxford UK – The tranquility that is Oxford

Cambridge UK – The perfect escape from the insanity that is London

Bergamo Italy – A tranquility and joy of life that we should all aspire to

Vienna Austria – The sounds of kindness and warm-heartedness abound

Yalikavak Turkey – It’s not Bodrum, but a better neighbor

Fethiye Turkey – The perfect place to relax and unwind

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