Just a hint of what Ireland has in store

Bring an umbrella and always carry it with you.  That is the best advice anyone can keep in mind when visiting Dublin.  It’s a gorgeous city but the words of a taxi driver hold true: “I can tell you the weather report for the next 6 months… cloudy, with bouts of sunshine, the occasional rain shower and a gusty wind or two.”   And how true it was!

Nights

The first place to look for availability must be Butler’s Townhouse (http://www.butlers-hotel.com/).  It’s a bit out of the way – but an absolutely lovely walk in to town or the convention center – but the hominess of the townhouse is unrivaled in all of my travels.  Cecilia, the lovely and accommodating manager was a literal breath of fresh air every day and went well out of her way to help in every way possible.  In fact, upon leaving Butler’s Townhouse, I felt a pang of sadness as though I was leaving a friend.

If Butler’s is full, or you want to spend more money, check out Number 31 (http://www.number31.ie/) my second choice for a place to stay in Dublin.  There are, of course, numerous chain hotels that you can frequent but none will give you the personal touch that either Butler’s or Number 31 can do.

Bites

Dublin has apparently really come in to its own in terms of the restaurant scene.  In fact, they have a Michelin Starred restaurant, L’Ecrivain (http://www.lecrivain.com/) which I wasn’t able to get in to but next time.

Brasserie Sixty6 is a brilliant and lively restaurant with a fresh take on Irish cuisine (http://www.brasseriesixty6.com/ may be closed).  The food was divine and the wine list really quite broad with a bit of something for everyone.

As anyone who reads my blog knows, I love farm to table restaurants and Dublin’s The Farm (http://www.thefarmrestaurant.ie/) hits the mark straight on the head!  You must go: pleasing for both the vegetarian and the carnivore alike, the staff where fun and informed and the food absolutely divine.  (The “beet me up” dinner was out of this world!)

The ely group has a number of restaurants around the city that I understand are some of the best in the city.  I can personally recommend ely Gastropub (http://www.elywinebar.ie/) for their fantastic food, great beer, and fantastic staff.  I can only assume that their other restaurants are equally as good.

If, after a lovely dinner, you are in the need for a evening drink, I would recommend either the Palace bar (http://www.thepalacebardublin.com/) and Bowes pub (http://www.dublinpubscene.com/thepubs/bowes.html), the latter proudly stating that they have 130 some odd types of whiskey (I only had 3).  Of course there are lots of pubs and bars around so I just say, pop in and have a blast.

And lastly, and not exactly a “bite,” there is the Celtic Whiskey Shop (http://www.celticwhiskeyshop.com/).  This is a must and if you can speak with Michael, do so: according to three different bar tenders that I spoke to, Michael is probably the most knowledgeable person in all of Dublin when it comes to Whiskey.  (Suffice it to say that I left Dublin with two bottles of Yellow Spot, the big brother to the more typical Green Spot Whiskey!)

Sites

Regrettably, I didn’t have much of a chance to do much sightseeing but I can tell you that you must – must – visit the Book of Kels which is amazing but to this bibliophile, the library that is part of the tour is breathtaking and if they would have let me, I would have stood there for hours thinking about the books there, the people who used them daily, and the love that went in to their creation.

Christ Church is a must do when going to Dublin.  I’ve honestly seen better cathedrals in the world, but given that it is the oldest church in Europe, a trip to Dublin wouldn’t be complete without paying homage.

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Firenze, Italy

Florence is one of those places that I think the adjective “indifferent” best applies to how I feel about the city: I don’t hate it, but I don’t love it (like I do Rome and Venice) either, so it’s just there.  Don’t get me wrong: Florence is a beautiful city and has so much amazing art and architecture that one must visit at least once in their lives.  Whether you choose to return after that first visit, well, you’ll just have to tell me won’t you?

Nights

Like most hotels in Europe, there seems to be a lot on both ends of the spectrum and not a lot in the middle.  But don’t let that deter you.  And, whatever you do, don’t start thinking about the conversion rate of euro to your national currency: think of them as 1 to 1 if at all possible.  It honestly helps put things in perspective.

It is also important to keep my one most vital tip in mind: never book off of a website, but rather, write to the hotel directly asking for availability and the best available rate.  9 times out of 10, I get a great rate that is not available on the web.  And if you are staying for 3 nights or more, there is normally a better rate available.  Why waste money when a few minutes of time is all you need to write an email.

That said, my new favourite chain of hotels in Florence is the Lungarno Hotels group (www.lungarnohotels.com).  This is a relatively new chain of hotels in Florence, and part of the larger group of Design Hotels (www.designhotels.com) throughout Europe.  The Lungarno Hotels are all clumped together near the Ponte Vecchio (where you will, no doubt, want to go and explore).  The lower end of the hotes, I think, is the Gallery Art hotel and it is still quite stunning.  The common areas are akin to a library and personal art gallery and the rooms range from good-sized to suites.  My only complaint, if you will, is that each of the rooms has hardwood floors (a good thing) but when the lazy people above you can’t pick up a chair, but drag it – especially in the middle of the night – well, you can imagine.

Another hotel that I feel confident in recommending is the Borghese Palace Art Hotel (https://www.borghesepalace.it/contatti/).  I passed by this with a friend and then went back to have a look around and let me tell you: it looks stunning!  I will be staying here next time, just to have a look and advise my readers better.

If, by chance, you are in Florence for a conference or need to be near the train station, there is a 4 Star hotel called the Hotel Croce di Malta (www.crocedimaltaflorence.com) where I have stayed before.  In all honesty, it is pushing it to give this hotel 4 stars, but it is clean, the staff were great, and if you don’t have much time, its location really can’t be beat.

Bites

Until this visit, I had never been overly impressed with the restaurant scene in Florence.  Perhaps things have changed, or my sleuthing has gotten better, but I think that this time around I managed to avoid most of the overly-touristic restaurants.  My favourite, by far and away, was Buca dell’Orafo (www.bucadellorafo.com).  The staff were outstanding, the rigatoni with a smoked tomato sauce divine, and the atmosphere very non-touristy.  And the best part: although the staff does speak a bit of English, they are willing to let you speak in Italian.  Try it!  Italians prefer that you try rather than be lazy or, worst yet, purposefully butcher it like many of the young tourists walking around.

Another restaurant that I thoroughly enjoyed was Boccanegra (www.boccanegra.com).  There are 3 parts to this restaurant: the ristorante, the osteria, and the continetta.  I opted for the osteria because that is what I love about Italian cooking: I want to see what I am eating, taste what I am eating, and not be confused by what I am eating and tasting.  That’s what an osteria is to me.  The staff here were very friendly and not cloyingly attentive like many places can be.  And let me tell you: the caprese was the best that I’ve had in the city to date!  And I ate caprese every night!  And although I don’t eat meat, they are supposedly known for their bistecca fiorentina (which I heard was great) which means that their wine list is heavy on the reds.  For 29 euro, we had an outstanding, full-bodied red that was not a chianti and was the cheapest wine on the list.  And it was the waiter’s recommendation to us!  Oh yeah, before I forget: don’t be put off by what some of the reviews on those other sites say.  I didn’t read any of those before going and only know of their opinions the day after and I still loved it.

Il Latini (www.illatini.com) was recommended to me but I wasn’t able to go.  It’s listed on many of the sites out there and I hear it is good from a couple of friends so I would believe them and go.

Sites

I can’t really add much to the list of sites that one must visit when in Florence: the Uffizi Gallery, “il Gigante” (aka, David), and the ponte vecchio as well as those amazing things that you see and find along the way.  So, instead, I will encourage you to go to 2 places for a drink either before a late dinner or after dinner, because the views are spectacular.  The first is actually the rooftop bar at the Continentale hotel (part of the Lungaro Hotel group).  The banquettes around the rooftop are incredibly comfortable and the views over the city breathtaking!  What better way to wind down the evening.  (And not a lot of people know about this place so it really is quite calming.)

The other place I would recommend it to go to the Forte di Belvedere on the “other side” of the Arno river.  It’s a bit of a walk – nothing better than after a filling meal of pasta and meat right?! – but well worth it.  Just find an enoteca that appeals, sit down, have a drink, and be amazed at the views back over the Arno at Firenze.  This really is a sight that should not be missed!

And with that my friends, put on your walking shoes and explore one of the cities in the country that I love and affectionately refer to as home.

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Barcelona, Spain

(updated 04 August 2012)

I find it difficult to choose between Barcelona and Madrid as my favourite place in Spain.  Each offers such different things to enjoy, admire, and fall in love with that I’m not sure if I will ever have a favourite.  But for this writing, allow me to wax nostalgically about Barcelona, a true gem of Europe.

Nights

One of my favourite Spanish hotel chains is the Room Mate hotels.  Now, if you’ve read other posts, you will know that I am not a fan of chain hotels.  But this chain is great: they are funky, the staff are young, hip and knowledgeable, and the hotels are typically located in residential areas so you don’t feel as though you are among the throngs of tourists mulling about.  In Barcelona, there is Room Mate Emma (http://www.room-matehotels.com/eng/barcelonahotel/emmahotel/emmahotel.php).  It is just a short walk to everything – las Ramblas, the convention centre, and every conceivable restaurant option you could want – and I highly recommend it.

The next hotel that I suspect I will book is the Hotel Sixty Two (http://www.sixtytwohotel.com/).  I have finally had the chance to stay here are it is all that i hoped it would be!   Classy, minimalist design, and if you’re coming from the airport, you can take the train, get off in BCN, and it’s only a few blocks walk.  Absolutely stunning!

I’ve heard good things about the Hotel Montecarlo Barcelona, although I haven’t stayed here, so you’ll have to let me know what you think if you go.  (http://www.montecarlobcn.com/?gclid=CLGa06Hz1qwCFcV_5Qod1jirqw)

The U232 Hotel (http://www.u232hotel.com/default-en.html) is another option if you are traveling to BCN.   The hotel design is vintage Ralph Lauren in black, cherry, taupe and everything I hoped it would be.   The staff are amazing and very helpful and the location in a somewhat residential part of BCN is amazing.   For those business travels out there, just know: the internet connection in the hotel is dreadful.  Not only is it weak and kept cutting off, but even in the lobby – where I would work each morning –  the signal is pretty dim so just be prepared and be patient.  The hotel  is worth the stay, just not the free internet!

Bites

I love the food in Barcelona!  It’s not the easiest place for a vegetarian to eat, but I’ve yet to have a problem and I can say with all pride and admiration that every restaurant has gone  out of their way to make something for me, beyond the typical grilled vegetable platter.

Restaurant Gaig is a Michelin starred and worth every penny, but very expensive (http://www.restaurantgaig.com/).   It’s just down a small little alley/street from my personal favourite restaurant in Barcelona so if you can’t get in, or don’t have dosh to splurge, check out

Restaurant Tragaluz (http://www.grupotragaluz.com/tragaluz/).  Like I said, this is my favourite in the city!  If you can sit on the top floor, which is enclosed in glass, do it!  Note: if you arrive early, they won’t let you go to the restaurant as they want you to drink in the bar.  The bar is cool, but expensive so just be forewarned.  (The bar no longer exists and now it is an oyster bar but still, if you arrive early, they won’t seat you.  But still an amazing restaurant and still my favourite!)

Another favourite of mine in the city is the Casa Calvet (http://www.casacalvet.es/).  As you walk around Barcelona, you can’t help but notice the influence that Gaudi had on the city.  What makes this restaurant so special, besides the food, is that Casa Calvet was the first residence that Gaudi designed for a private client.  The restaurant is a tad on the posh side but it is such a lovely experience – almost like sitting in someone’s private home having dinner – that you really should try and go if you can.

And finally, and before I forget, you must seek out La Vinya del Senyor.  This is a lovely wine bar – among a plethora of wine bars – but this is truly the best with an amazing list of wines by the glass and some pretty tasty tapas as well.  It’s a walk from any of the hotels that I have mentioned, but that’s what you do: you walk and take in the sites of Barcelona all in anticipation of phenomenal wines (and perhaps a bit of cheese too!) before dinner.

Sites

I, personally, love La Segrada Familia, Gaudi’s unfinished masterpiece and strongly encourage everyone to go.  But, whatever you do, don’t be rushed; take your time to look at the details and see all the different figures that are nearly hidden in the structure.   Trust me, you won’t be disappointed.

I would also encourage you to stroll up the street (sorry, I can’t remember the name) that leads to Park Guell, another Gaudi masterpiece.  Yes, you can take the metro, a bus, or even a taxi but if you walk, will be greeted by more of Gaudi’s masterpieces along the street.  And once you are at Park Guell, stroll around and maybe even stop along your way to get some bread and cheese for a little picnic in the park.  You won’t regret the journey and you will love seeing all of the locals intermingled with the tourists admiring the beauty and vision of Gaudi and his park.

And if you have the time – or better yet, please, make the time – you must go to Montserrat, the hilltop religious center.  You won’t be disappointed, I promise.

Getting there is really quite easy: when in the metro station, you will see kiosks promoting Montserrat and telling you the options of how to get there so fear not, it really is easy.  When you get to Montserrat, just wonder.  And be sure to see the black virgin.

(Note: because Montserrat is on a hilltop, it can be quite cold up there so take a jacket, even if you are sweating from the heat in Barcelona.   You will need it!  And it will cover your shoulders when you go in the church.)

And with that, I encourage you to go and visit one of the most amazing cities  in Spain.  I think you will love it and want to return as soon as possible.  Enjoy!

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Milano – unlike much of Italy but still quintessentially Italian

(updated 29 Feb 2020)

Most people I know either love Milano or hate Milano: I’m still not sure why because I think it a fascinating, multi-cultural place with so much to see and do that I just can’t get enough.  But, perhaps, in retrospect, people don’t like Milano because it isn’t like the Italy we grew up with in our heads: little streets, little buildings, and lots of ruins.  But these are, in all honesty, what makes Milano such a fascinating destination.

Nights

Milano has every possible price point in terms of hotels.  And, needless to say, I haven’t stayed at all of them (!), but I do tend to stay at group of hotels, all of which I highly recommend.

If money is no object or you just want to splurge, you must stay at the Park Hyatt Milano (http://www.milan.park.hyatt.com/hyatt/hotels/index.jsp?null).  The hotel is located right next to the Gelleria Vittorio Emanuele II (the famous stain-glass covered shopping arcade) and the Duomo.

If you need something a little cheaper, but still close to the Duomo, go to the UNA Maison (http://www.unahotels.it/en/) which is about a block and half from the Duomo and a hotel of calm with a pallate of whites and beiges.  I love this hotel!

About a 15 minute walk further east (I think) is the Petite Palais Hotel ( http://www.petitpalais.it/).  This hotel has been hit and miss for me but the design, decor, and location make me keep coming back hoping for a good  room, as opposed to a corner room on the second floor that seems to invite all of the outside noise at all hours of the night.

Another more recent find is “the Yard” (http://www.theyardmilano.com/) a new endeavor by a truly lovely family.  This is not so much a hotel, as it is a bed and breakfast: the family is always there, their sun a sweatheart, and everyone just wants to help you.  The only downside, if there is one, is that you don’t exactly have privacy: the family is literally just down the hall so, I imagined anyway, that they can here everything that you are doing.  It was a strange feeling.  But all-in-all, I would stay again.

And if you are looking for something truly unique, I highly recommend the “TownHouse Collection” (http://www.townhouse.it/) of hotels.  Each is unique, close enough to everything that you want to see and do, and you don’t feel like you are staying in staid hotel.  I love TownHouse 33.  I love the TownHouse chain and this hotel did not disappoint.  The communal breakfast in the morning was more than the typical Italian breakfast but not quite the American smorgasbord breakfast that some may be used to. I loved it! And in terms of the rooms: some rooms look to an inner courtyard and these, I suspect, are quieter than those looking on to the street.

Bites

Finally, I have found places in Milano that I can recommend for the hungry traveler!

Ratana Ristorante (https://www.ratana.it/?lang=en) may just be my favourite restaurant in Milano.  As I write this, I literally cannot wait to return!  The food was outstanding, the wine divine, and the staff so incredibly helpful that I didn’t want to leave.  There was also something about the familial aspect of the restaurant: there was a feeling that family members of the staff were there, just as you would at someone’s house.  But it was the food.  I love the tradition of Italian cooking, and the simplicity of it all, but somehow the chef, Cesare Battisti, has managed to modernize the food while keeping to tradition and not making it “nouveau Italian”.  Sincerely, I say bravo chef.  And everyone must go here.

I have fallen in love with the Trattoria del Nuovo Macello (http://www.trattoriadelnuovomacello.it/)! I am literally dreaming about the staff, the food, and the wine list. I could go on and on about this restaurant but, instead, just take my word for it and go, but know that, like many restaurants in Italy, they are closed on Sundays. And when you do, be sure to get the saffron “rice pudding” with strawberries if it is available. Oh. My. God.

In the Navigli neighborhood, I was taken to one of the growing slow food establishments that I honestly cannot wait to return to: L’Osteria Grand Hotel (http://www.grandhotelosteria.it/). It’s not the easiest place to find – to say that it is tucked away off of a busy street is an understatement! – but with a good map and a bit of patience, it will be worth the trip! At first, I wasn’t sure if they spoke anything other than Italian but I am happy to say that I heard a bit of English and a bit of German the night I was here. The antipasti and the primi were truly mouthwatering and the dolci, which I don’t typically take, was incredible. Make this a stop on your tour of Milano!

My latest find is a keeper!  La Bettola di Piero (no website but on Facebook) is a quintessential Italian restaurant.  There is nothing fancy, the tables are covered in checked tablecloths (not to be kitschy but for real), and there are old pictures hanging on the walls.  But the food is absolutely divine, the owners are so genial and check on every diner, and the ambiance is so inviting and welcoming.  They do have an English menu available but I honestly can’t tell you if they speak English as everyone in the restaurant – except for yours truly – was Italian: I did not hear one word of English spoke then entire time!

And if you are in need of some great, classic, and unpretentious Italian food, head no further than La Cantina di Manuela, a 10 minute walk from TownHouse 33.  A small enoteca with wonderful wines by the glass, the food was outstanding and full of locals so you knew it would be good.  I will be back in August, if not sooner, and cannot wait!

If you are near the Duomo and are looking for great, yet affordable pizza – for either lunch or dinner – I can highly recommend Mozzarella e Basilco  (http://www.mozzarellaebasilico.com/).  Tucked away behind the Duomo, off of Corso Vittorio Emanuelle II, is some of the finest pizza from Napoli that I have found this far north. The restaurant is filled with everyone – young, old, local, and tourist – and the staff and managers are just outstanding!  It is so good that I am literally drooling as I write!  Be sure to put this on your list of places to visit.

And my latest find, as of 2020, is the sister restaurant to Felice a Testaccio in Milano (http://feliceatestaccio.it/en/milan/).  Cacio e pepe is a southern dish so this traveler was insanely happy to know that there is a place in the north that will meet with cacio e pepe cravings when I next travel through this stunning city.

Sites

A visit to Milano should not be considered complete without a visit to the Galleria, the Duomo, and the Last Supper.  (For the latter, be sure to book as far in advance as you can as they only allow a certainly number of people in at any one time.) (Click here for tickets http://www.vivaticket.it/?op=cenacoloVinciano. The page is in Italian but you can change to English in the upper right corner.)

And before you leave the Duomo, be sure to pay to go to the roof of the Duomo and walk on the roof.  The views are stunning and it’s something you can do that not everyone knows about.   And,  if the weather is not good, or you just need a break, be sure to go to La Rinascente department store, right next to the Duomo, and go to the cafe on the top floor; it has views of the Duomo from an angle that not everyone has the luxury or knowledge to view.

After you have done the requisite tourist things – all of which I love and recommend – be sure to allow some time to go to the Pinacoteca di Brera art gallery (http://www.brera.beniculturali.it/) something that I overlooked for the longest time and now is one of my favourite galleries in the world.

If you can get in, I highly recommend seeing an opera at La Scala.  It’s difficult to get tickets, but if you can, you won’t be disappointed: it is, after all, where Italian Operas began!

And finally, your trip to Milano would not be complete without a stroll down Via Montenapoleone, Via della Spiga and Via Sant’Andrea.  This is where the pretty people are – assuming you don’t think all Italians are “pretty” – and the clothes aren’t too bad either.  And if  you have the chutzpa (not meant negatively, I assure you), go in to the shops and see some truly outstanding craftsmanship.  I do it every time!

And with that, I will wish you great travels to a city that I adore and think of as a third home.  Buon viaggio!

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Craig’s 50th Grand Tour

For as long as I can remember, I’ve known that I would celebrate my 50th birthday, in Italy, and with my friends.  Over time, bits and pieces would form in my head and ultimately become reality: once I knew what I was going to do, it never changed. And once I realized, years ago, where it would be, I never wavered on the location or anything else.

It was a humbling experience, and a memorable one at that.  Those who were able to attend, along with those who couldn’t but were there in spirit, have had to hear me reminisce, and tell and retell long stories, and yes, still get verklempt at the fact that many people came a long way. For me.

So here’s my story.  And if you want to follow my path, and visit my special places, I hope you will and I hope you’ll let me know if I can help you as this really was unforgettable.

Nites

I started off the Grand Tour at a hotel that I’ve always wanted to stay at but never had the opportunity either because they were closed (they close in the winter) or they were fully booked (they only have 5 rooms!): the Locanda Cipriani (https://www.locandacipriani.com/en/).  I wanted a little time to myself, before everyone arrived, and I knew that this would be the perfect place.  The island of Torcello is perfection and the calm and solitude that you feel when walking on this island, after all of the day-trippers have left, is absolutely stunning!

I next moved to the Cima Rosa (https://cimarosavenezia.com/) in Venezia.  I’ve always wanted to stay on the Grande Canale in Venezia but never wanted to stay at one of the large touristy hotels.  When I first read about the Cima Rosa, I knew that this was more my style.  But reader be warned: staying on the Grande Canale, regardless of hotel type, is not cheap!  As this was my 50th birthday celebration, it was worth the splurge, but splurge it was.  And the hotel itself?  It’s a little quirky – I’m still not sure how I felt about the bathroom for my room being across the hall, even though it was private to just me – but you feel like family and the rooms really are comfortable.  (When we were there, they had also created another suite on the ground floor that looked divine.)  The staff are outstanding and the location really is gorgeous and pretty quiet (ie, no tourists walking under your window).

The site of the party for most of my friends was the La Gare Hotel Venezia, subsequently rebranded as the Hyatt Centric Murano (https://www.hyatt.com/en-US/hotel/italy/centric-hyatt-murano-venice/vcect).  I love this hotel for numerous reasons: the staff are fantastic, the location on Murano is great because it is close enough to Venezia to go as often as you want but far enough away that when the day-trippers leave, it is like living on an island as the Italians do, and the rooms are modern and large, something that you don’t often find in Venezia.

Bites

The food.  It was all about the food.  And having one belly laugh after another with my friends.

I’m not normally one for hotel restaurants but given the secluded nature of the Locanda Cipriani, and the fact that I was having a birthday luncheon there, I figured I should check it out.  Oh my lord, I am so happy that I did.  I’m certain that there is a menu – I may have even seen it but I can’t recall – but when I told the waiter that I was vegetarian, he made a few suggestions, spoke with the chef, and came back with other suggestions. Divine!  (And yes, the birthday luncheon of manicotti stuffed with cheese and vegetables was delectable!)

Next up was Venissa (http://www.venissa.it/), a restaurant I have been dying to try but could either never get a reservation for, or it was closed, or I couldn’t get there and back.  I am so pleased that I finally made it and literally sit here dreaming about the food, the staff, the location, and the décor.  There is the Ristorante which has a Michelin star and looks amazing.  I haven’t eater here, but I will: it will be a splurge, but one I suspect is worth it.  The other restaurant is the Osteria which, unlike your typical Italian osteria, is a bit on the pricey side and a little nouveau but it was outstanding.  And I must say that, even after all that food, and having no room for a bit of dolce, the wonderful staff brought a bit of lemon torte that was mind-blowing!  I don’t care if you are full, you must try their dolce!

After moving to Venezia to spend some special time with a dear friend and new friend before the start of my birthday festivities, the first restaurant that we tried was Da Fiore (http://www.dafiore.net/en/restaurant/).  As a group of three, we couldn’t do the one window table on the small canal but we were close and it was divine.  And the food?!  Absolute stunning!  And with an outstanding wine list, there was no way that we could not have a fantastic meal of pasta (for me) and shellfish for my friends (it is Venezia after all!).

Our last meal in Venezia, before moving on to Murano, was Anice Stellato (https://www.osterianicestellato.com/) which required a lovely walk through parts of Venezia to this wonderful, small, and not pretentious osteria.  Although the staff were a bit rushed – it had the feeling of being slightly short-handed that evening – the antipasti and primi were everything that we had hoped for after a long day of walking and talking.

And then Murano and the start of Craig’s birthday celebration.  The first night, that Friday the 6th, a bunch of us went to Corte Sconta (http://www.cortescontavenezia.com/).  If you’ve read my blog on Venezia, you’ll know that this is one of my favourite restaurants in Venezia: the staff are amazing, the food is always outstanding – especially because they happily accommodate this vegetarian – and the location which is off the beaten path is just perfect.  And it was no different for 16 people with a variety of preferences and dietary restrictions. After a bit of confusion, we ultimately decided on antipasti for vegetarians and antipasti of fish.  Insane!  I can’t even recall each of the platters of antipasti but I do recall that there were 3.  Yes, 3 platters of antipasti.  And we hadn’t even had the main course!  But fear not, the primi was everything that I knew it would be and we were not disappointed.  Oh, and of course, we had to have a bit of dolci of vin santo and cartucci (before the taxi ride back to Murano).

On Saturday the 7th, we all went to AcquaStanca (http://www.acquastanca.it/homepage-en/) run by the lovely and welcoming Giovanna, and not far from the La Gare Hotel in Murano.  Knowing that some friends came a very long distance, I wanted something close and welcoming and this is, in my opinion, pure perfection.  In my opinion, this was the restaurant that Murano long needed and it will forever hold a special place in my heart: not only is the restaurant amazing, and the staff so inviting and welcoming, but it was Giovanna who introduced me to one of my favourite antipasti combinations which is exactly what we had as a starter: mozzarella di bufala with artichokes.  And, as always, the pasta was amazing, the gnocchi with scampi that some friends orders pillow-like, and the fish perfection.  And the wine that never seemed to end?  Perfectly matched!

The birthday day celebration was one for the memories: we started with a boat from Murano to Torcello to the Locanda Cipriani and a luncheon in the garden.  The weather was perfect with hardly a cloud in the sky and the manicotti stuffed with cheese and vegetables in a béchamel sauce ideal.  And given the heat of the day, the house made gelato with strawberries a perfect way to end that meal before heading back to Murano on our private boat.

And that evening, the penultimate celebratory meal was at one of my favourite restaurants – easily one of 2 or possibly 3 in all of Venezia – Vecio Fritolin (which, sadly, has suddenly closed as of 18 Jan 2020).  Perhaps we were a little loud, and perhaps we laughed a little too much, but it was exactly what I wanted thanks to Irina and everyone at the restaurant.  We started with lovely amuse-bouche that were appropriate for the meat eaters, the fish eaters, and the vegetarians, not to mention the amazing breadsticks that had a lattice-work of parmigiano (that no one knew if they could eat or not, that’s how pretty they were!).  And then the pasta, hand made in house, with the right sauce that was literally to die for.  It wasn’t so much so that you felt like you had overeaten but just the perfect portion to leave enough room for dessert: tiramisu!  It was my birthday so I had to have my favourite.

The Monday after my birthday was emotional as friends began to leave and I wanted to say goodbye to each (beginning at around 5am and about 3 hours of sleep).  But what softened the sadness that everything was over was seeing people who had not met before that weekend connecting on social media and sharing personal contact information.  As I write this, I am overwhelmed by the beauty of these friends, and the love that they have to give.

And thankfully, the food tour wasn’t quite over as a few of my friends who hadn’t left yet went to La Bitta (no website) a small, traditional restaurant near the train station that only seats in two waves: 19.00 and 21.00 (but best to check when making the much needed reservations).  The menu is small, and the wine list just as small but when you focus on such a few items, the food cannot help but be perfect, and it was.

From Venezia I traveled to my other happy place, Rome.  I knew that my Grand Tour could not conclude without a visit to Flavio al Velavevodetto (http://www.ristorantevelavevodetto.it/) which, hands down, has the best cacio e pepe in Rome. Hands.  Down.  But coming in a very close second is one of my new favourite restaurants that I, sadly, didn’t know about when I lived there: Sora Margherita (https://www.soramargherita.com/) a small little restaurant close to the Jewish Quarter.  Unlike any other place that I have visited, Sora Margherita lets you choose the fresh pasta that you want, and then the topping.  Of course, I had to choose cacio e pepe and, when I did, I then asked which pasta to have and the waitress quickly replied “you should only have the fettuccini”, so I did.

Sites

Anyone familiar with my blog knows that I always include those sites that are either off the beaten path and not included in the many guide books available, or that are so outstanding that I just have to mention them.  But for this event, the sites were the sound of laughter, the clinking of glasses, and the making of new friends as well as my favourite places, my favourite restaurants, and my favourite drinks.  I wanted everyone to see what it is about this place – this Venezia, this Murano, this Torcello, this Burano, and this Roma – that has a hold over my heart. It may have only been a small peek in to this happy place, but hopefully enough to make you want to return or to go for the very first time.

The deets

Sunday 01 April

18.05                     Depart JFK

AA Flt 198

Monday 02 April

8.20                        Arrive Milano

11.45                     Train to Venice

Staying at:

Locanda Cipriani (confirmed)

30142 Torcello

Linea 3 to Murano Faro – Linea 12 to Burano – Linea 9 to Torcello

Tuesday 03 April

19.30                     Venissa Osteria (confirmed)

Burano

Wednesday 04 April

Linea 9 to Burano (every 15 minutes) – Linea 12 to Murano Faro – Linea 3 to P.Le Roma – Linea 1 to San Stae

Staying at:           Cima Rosa Venezia (confirmed)

Brittany

20.00                     Da Fiore (http://www.dafiore.net/en/restaurant/) (confirmed)

Thursday 05 April

10.30 – 15.00     Go to Corte Sconta to leave deposit for Friday evening – Lucia Zambon

Aperativo Vino Vero or Timon on the fond. Misericordia

20.00                     Anice Stellato (https://www.osterianicestellato.com/)

Friday 06 April

Linea 1 to P.le Roma – Linea 3 to Murano

Staying at:

Le Gare Hotel Murano (confirmed)

Riva Longa 49,

30141 Murano Venezia

19.30                     Corte Sconta (confirmed)

Calle del Pestrin
Castello, 3886

Saturday 07 April

20.00                     Dinner at Acquastanca (confirmed)

Giovanna

Sunday 08 April

11.30                     Depart for Torcello

12.30 – 14.30     Lunch at Locanda Cipriani (confirmed)

15.00                     Return to Murano

19.00                     Depart for Venezia

20.00                     Dinner at Vecio Fritolin (confirmed)

Irina

22.30                     Bussola Cocktail Lab?

Near Ponte di Rialto

Monday 09 April

19.00                     La Bitta (Confirmed)

Tuesday 10 April

10.18                     Depart Murano Museo

10.47                     Arrive P.Le Roma

11.25                     Depart Venezia for Rome (4 nights in Rome)

Staying at:

The Corner Rome (confirmed at 162 euro per night)

Viale Aventino 121

Rome Italy

20.15                     Settimo al Pellegrino (confirmed)
Via del Pellegrino 117
06.688.01978

Wednesday 11 April

19.30                     Caroline and Tony

Da Enzo (confirmed)

Via dei Vascellari, 29
00153 Roma (Trastevere)

Thursday 12 April

13.00                     Meet Rita at the Ludovisi Palace hotel (via Veneto)

20.00                     Sora Margherita (confirmed)

Piazza delle Cinque Scole, 30

00186 Roma

Friday 13 April

20.00                     Flavio al Velavevodetto (confirmed)

Via di Monte Testaccio, 97

00153 Roma RM, Italia

Saturday 14 April

8.00                        (taxi to Ostiensa to Fiumicino)

11.05                     Depart Roma

AA Flight 721

15.50                     Arrive Charlotte

17.20                     Depart Charlotte

AA Flt 5276

19.02                     Arrive LGA

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All hotels, and their hotel rooms, are not created equal

Finding the right hotel, in the right location, as well as the right room, is a very important part of planning travel if you ask me.  I know that not everyone agrees with this: “It’s just a place to sleep” and “I want to save money for other things while I’m on vacation.”  I’ve heard them both and although I don’t particularly agree with the first one, I do understand the second.

To me, a hotel – and where it is located and what the room is – is part of the joy of travel.  It’s more than a place to lay your head at night but it’s a place to relax and to unwind even if you are only there for a short period of time.  And as obvious as it may sound, you do have to wake up in the morning and the feeling you have when you wake up, and what you see and the comfort you feel are key.

So how do you find the right hotel?  First and foremost, do you research.  Travel sites can be useful but to be honest, I’m not a fan simply because I’m suspicious and wonder what people are paid to post reviews or, on the flip side, annoyed by the rantings that happen because someone didn’t do their research.  Personally, I like to read travel blogs (not just because I write one) as well as magazines, newspapers, and even tour groups.  This gives me a starting point from which to seek out further insight on the hotels that strike my fancy.  Because, after all, if you don’t trust your instinct, what can you trust right?  If you’re not a fan of modernist and clean lines, don’t choose those hotels regardless of the price; you won’t be happy.  Likewise, if you don’t like brocade, and Turkish carpets, or florals like Laura Ashley threw up, don’t go there.  Trust your gut.

What about chains like Marriott, Hyatt, or even Holiday Inn or Best Western (which is great in Europe, for the record)?  I’m not a fan of chain hotels, especially when I am traveling outside of the United States but I will say that there is much to be said about hotel membership programmes so if your travels are in the US, find a chain that you like – those that are classic, those that are funky, or those that are cheap – and stick with them.  Remember: most hotel rates aren’t that drastically different once you’ve identified a category that your membership is in and that few-dollar difference can mean the difference between an upgrade and that room next to the service elevator.

Which brings up my next bit of advice: you DO NOT have to accept the first room you are given, regardless of it being a chain or a boutique hotel.  A friend told me a long time ago that “someone has to get the bad room… it just isn’t going to be me.”  I used to get a lot of ribbing from friends and colleagues for refusing the first room given and requesting another room.  But when they were annoyed by the ding of the elevator or the jangle of the ice machine while I comfortably relaxed and tuned out, well, they stopped ribbing me.

Be nice.  And smile.  The folks at reception, wherever you are staying, have to deal with lots of people day in and day out so a kind word, and an engaging smile is not only human decency, but it also may mean that the room you are given is just perfect.  But if it’s not, don’t disturb the room and head back to reception and request another room.  But be specific about what’s not to your liking.  “I don’t like it” really isn’t helpful and won’t lead to much whereas if you can say “I don’t like rooms facing east and the early sunrise”, that gives your host somewhere to start.

But remember, the above is useful except when you arrive early or arrive late, neither of which I ever plan to do.  When you think about it, it makes sense: arriving early means that there are few rooms available, if any, and once something becomes available – especially if you try the trick of lurking in the reception area which never works, I promise you – that’s what you get.  Likewise, arriving late means that there may be few, if no, alternate rooms from which to choose.  So, you know those “check-in times” listed on their website?  Try to adhere to them as you’ll have the best chance of scoring that perfect room.

So let’s return to the other aspect of travel that I often hear: “I want to save money for other things”.  You and me both.  I have made it a specialty to score the best place, at the best price, ever since I began traveling.

So we’ve done our research and identified hotels that look right.  And notice that I said “hotels” in the plural.  If you get your heart set on one particular location, you’re really not going to save any money by comparing prices and offers.  Try to identify a handful of properties that appeal to you, both in terms of what they look like but also where they are located.  And write to each one.  Yep, you read that correctly: write to each hotel, introduce yourself and your plans, and ask for their best available rate.  It should go without saying but just to be safe: you can’t wait until the last minute to write and hope for a great offer.  You. Have. To. Plan.

Once you’ve received replies from each hotel, then it comes down to comparing the offers and what works best for you.  Remember, just because one of the hotels is cheaper than all the others, consider where they are located and what that means for your travel plans – sites to visit and the bites to experience.  Return to their websites, and confirm that the hotel still gives you all the feels that you were hoping for.  Your gut was right when you first started but is it still correct?  Double-checking never hurt anyone and can only lead to the perfect vacation and holiday experience.  And once you’ve made a decision, do the right thing and write to the other hotels thanking them for their time but that you’ve chosen a different property and that you hope to visit their property soon (even if you aren’t, but you might).

Remember: someone has to get the “bad” room, it just doesn’t have to be you.  Take your time, do your research, write some emails and most of all, be polite and considerate when you check in and you’ll be on your way to the start of a memorable holiday.

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Alassio, Italy – a stunning town with the love of life approach that I find in much of Italy, and which makes me long to return on a daily basis.

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Nice, France – So much gorgeousness and stunning architecture along the French Riviera that you often don’t know where to look

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Bordighera, Italy – An amazing little town on the Ligurian coast, and close to the French boarder

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Chennai, where the people are so incredibly kind, the city takes pride in itself, and the way that southern Indians meld and blend spices calms me, and takes my breath away.

I love southern India: the people are kind, the city is fairly clean, and the way that southern Indians meld and blend spices calms me, and takes my breath away.

Nites

Oh my goodness, I am in love!  The Leela Palace Chennai is absolutely stunning and peaceful and when you score a Bay of Bengal room, the tranquility is unmatched.  The rooms are spacious with sitting areas and desks, as well as a ginormous bathroom that you may not want to leave!

And if this isn’t your thing, and you want something perhaps a little more central, the ITC Grand Chola (https://www.itchotels.in/hotels/chennai/itcgrandchola.html) is a knockout!  It appears to take up an entire city block and although I haven’t seen the rooms or stayed here, the public spaces are truly breathtaking.

Bites

Southern Spice at the Taj Coromandel hotel is incredible.  Tucked away in a far corner of the restaurant, the staff aptly suggests what to experience based on your preference.  And if you’re lucky, as I was the night that I went, the waiter suggested two half portions so that I could try different things.  And am I glad!  The paneer with ghee, ghost pepper, and 2 other peppers was lip-smacking, but soft on the palate and nowhere near as hot as I was expecting.  It’s a must try.

Likewise, Royal Vega at the ITC Grand Chola is a vegetarian’s dream!  Treated like a king, for not a lot of money, the menu is divided in to 3 sections: southern Indian, Northern Indian, and seasonal and each looked amazing!  My friend and I chose different sections and although the spice level has been toned down for the tourist clientele, the food was still outstanding.

And if you have three nights – because the above two would probably be my top-two choices – Pan Asia also at the ITC Grand Chola was a winner and great fun with friends.  As you’ll know by now, I am vegetarian but my friends raved over the Peking Duck and the various courses that it entailed.  And the curries for me were pretty outstanding as well!

Sites

I’ve been to Chennai before but never really had the chance to sightsee and boy am I glad that I did this time!  The monuments at Mahabalipuram are true wonders for the eye and deserve their UNESCO World Heritage designation.  The order in which I saw them, which appeared to be fairly important was first the Shore Temple, the only remaining temple (the others were previous further close to the sea and, probably due to rising ocean levels, destroyed);  then the Pancha Rathas (or 5 chariots) which was my favourite just because of their layout; and concluded with Krishna’s Butter Ball, a massive rock seemingly perched on sloping hill that the children try and push over.

Another lovely experience, especially for those of us who haven’t been invited to someone’s home, is the Dakshina Chitra museum, about an hour’s drive outside of Chennai.  Comprised of numerous example houses from Southern India, each gives a sense of homes before the crush of people and apartment buildings.  Scattered throughout are also hand-made goods that can make nice gifts for nominal cost.

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Kolkata is probably the most “melting pot” culture of all the cities that I’ve visited in India.

Kolkata is probably the most “melting pot” culture of all the cities that I’ve visited in India.  And, like New Delhi, you will encounter poverty right next to luxury and with very few exceptions, will one encroach on the other.  (Disclaimer: I don’t know what happened with the inhabitants who lived where the luxury hotels and high rises took life so there was probably horrible encroachment here and for that I apologize.)

Nites

The Grand Hyatt Kolkata (https://www.hyatt.com/en-US/hotel/india/hyatt-regency-kolkata/kolka) is located a little ways out of “downtown” but as it is situated right next to the football stadium, it buffers you from the outside noise and does provide a respite from the intense activity of daily life in Kolkata.  It is tried and true Hyatt so you know what you’ll get, and there are very few surprises.  To be honest, it lacked any feel of being in India but if you need to be confident in what you’ll get, this is the place for you.

The Oberoi Grand (https://www.oberoihotels.com/hotels-in-kolkata/) is stunning!  It is literally so stunning that when I walked in, I literally kicked myself for not staying there even though it cost quite a few more rupees.  Really, if you can swing it, there should be no second thoughts!

Bites

Knowing that, at this point, I would have been in India for over a week, I planned such that I would have a respite from Indian cuisine and go in a slightly different direction.  And my plans did not disappoint: Baan Thai at the Oberoi (see above for the link), is stunning!  And the Pad Thai – available both as vegetarian and traditionally with fish sauce – was perfection. 

Sites

Just as with Mumbai, a tour guide is imperative.  And just as with Mumbai, I didn’t have the best guide so there are no contact details to share.  But if you do your research, or contact your hotel, you’ll be able to see the sites, even if the guide isn’t great.

My experience has been that most guides ask “what do you want to see?” so be prepared.  And in my opinion, the first thing out of your mouth should be “Mother Theresa’s House”.  I must admit that I enjoyed having this as my last stop because it was humbling, and peaceful, and truly returned me to a centered disposition.  There really are no guides within the house, and some places are off limits as the Sisters still live there and practice, so watch for the signs and be sure to see the “museum” (hours vary) and Mother’s bedroom.  Truly, it puts all else in to perspective.

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This town, Thalpe, along with Galle Fort to the east, have made me fall in love with Sri Lanka.

Thalpe, along with Galle Fort to the East, have made me fall in love with Sri Lanka.  The people are so kind and the laid back beach culture that has taken over is a welcomed respite especially if you are traveling from other destinations that are a bit more chaotic.

Nites

Hands down, the perfect destination has been The Owl and the Pussycat hotel (https://www.otphotel.com/).  The staff are outstanding, the rooms lovely and each unique, and the food made me enjoy Sri Lankan cuisine just a little bit more.  But it is the view: set on Mihiripenna beach, and thus facing the Indian Ocean, the sound of the ocean calms a stressful day, the ocean breeze, although warm, is refreshing, and the lush garden that invites numerous birds is tranquil in a wind-swept sort of way.  Reader beware: there are a few rooms at the OtP that do not have ocean view rooms.  Those with a B after their room number, ie 1B,2B, are on the back side of the hotel.  Also note that rooms on the ground floor have little privacy as guests walk in front of your room to enter the building and climb the stairs.

If you can’t get in to the OtP – there are only 27 rooms or so – there are some other lovely looking hotels along the way.  In no particular order, consider the following.

Villa Barnes looks stunning.  I believe it is available via Airbnb.

Hotel Kabalan, at least from the outside looks worth looking in to.

Marriott Weligama which is further afield but looks stunning. Just plan accordingly to visit Galle Fort

Bites

After a lot of Sri Lankan food, I was ready for a change and I can highly recommend the pizza at Wijaya Beach Restaurant.  Located directly on the beach, this little place initially started as a restaurant but has recently added rooms.  They don’t reservations so getting a table on the beach is near-impossible but that’s okay: everything looks at the ocean and the constant sound of waves crashing is all you really need.

I can also recommend the Runcible Spoon at the OtP.  Just like the hotel, the restaurant (where you also have breakfast) is situated on the beach which makes an amazing setting for dinner and drinks.

Sites

Take a tuktuk.  Somewhere.  Anywhere.  You get the best views and the most incredible experience going to any destination.

Galle Fort is amazing.  It is very touristic with tons of shops and hotels and restaurants but if you look past these things, you can see an incredible town with stunning architecture and, more importantly, the interweaving of religions with churches, mosques, temples, and I’d bet a synagogue but I can’t promise! And although it’s not a site – and if you saw it, you might be scared – a massage at the OtP hotel is a must.  The massage hut is located in a corner of the grounds looking to the ocean.  And although it may be a little unsettling for some when asked to undress, completely – not only because there are people fishing in the ocean but also, well, we Americans are little conservative that way – it will be one of the most relaxing and peaceful experiences of your life.  Trust me

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Close enough to Yala National Park for the perfect safari

I would recommend 2 days max in Tissamaharama.  I’ve read that there is wonderful history to this little town but much of that has gone, or I couldn’t find it, such that it is a hustle and bustle little town.  With two nights, you arrive on night one, do a safari early the next day, take a hot shower to remove the red clay and dust from everywhere, sleep, and move on to your next destination after the second night.

Nites

This is a tough one to be honest.  If you are able to plan well in advance, there are some stunning hotels close to Yala National Park that I would love to stay at.  But since I didn’t, I will just say that Wild Coast Tented Lodge (http://www.resplendentceylon.com/wildcoastlodge-yala/) is where I so wanted to stay but even 6 month out, they were booked over the Christmas holiday.  On the other side of the small lake is the Una Huts by Uga Escapes, who were also booked out (https://www.ugaescapes.com/chenahuts/).  Both of these hotels are insanely expensive but I suspect worth every cent.  There is also an outpost of the Cinnamon hotel chain, the Cinnamon Wild Yala (http://www.cinnamonhotels.com/en/cinnamonwildyala/) which might be worth checking.  And as I write this in 2018, I’ve heard talk that there is another 5 star hotel going up on the beach about 15 km away from Tissamaharama so stay tuned.

If, like me, you can’t get in to the above, or they are just too expensive, there is the Thaulle Resort and Spa (http://thaulle.com/?lang=en).  Run by a German family and situated directly on lake Yoda, it is a calm and peaceful resort where each of the 27 rooms face the lake (beware the mosquitos friends!).  The rooms have a bit too much wood for my taste, making them very “Germanic” to be honest, but they are large and all have large bathrooms, and gorgeous balconies, and the staff are wonderful so for a couple of days, it does what it needs to do. 

Bites

I wish I had something to offer here but, sadly, there was a serious lack of restaurants that this intrepid travel was intrepid enough to try.  The Thaulle does offer half board dining option so you can try that or, if you have a car or they arrange a tuktuk, I suspect any of the 5 stars above under Nites would be amazing

Sites

Without a doubt, you will probably come to Tissamaharama, or one of the surrounding villages, to do a safari in Yala National Park.  There’s really not a lot else to do other than relax this far away from Colombo or Galle Fort.  I have no hesitation in saying that this is a trip worth taking!  And for me, I opted to do a full-day tour which, in the end turned out to be completely worth it. Immediately upon entering (once the sun rose as you do arrive in the dark), we saw water buffalo and shortly thereafter male and female peacocks, and deer.  But it took a while to see elephants and even far longer to see the elusive leopard.

 But given all the research that I did before the trip, and some of the things that I experienced in total contrast to what I read, I wanted to share some advice.

Reader beware:

  • It’s a safari, not the zoo: your driver will do his best, and communicate with other guides, to find both elephants and leopards if possible
  • The roads are rough so be prepared for a bumpy ride and hold on tight
  • You don’t need a hat as every jeep I saw was covered
  • A dust mask is a good idea; I had one but many people didn’t and were improvising with t-shirt and facial tissue (aka, Kleenex)
  • Mosquito repellant is a must; there is a LOT of standing water for the animals and, thus, for the mosquitos
  • You will be covered in red clay dust by the end
  • And if you do a full day tour, know that it is now a requirement in the park that all jeeps stop driving between 12 and 14.00 so you, and all of the other tourists doing a day tour will hang out near the beach for 2 hours.  (Most tours include lunch but I opted on the side of caution and ate a protein bar.)
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Colombo works in all of its magic and intertwined wonder.

Colombo is an interesting mix of cultures that it really makes this lovely country difficult to point to just one influence: there is the Indian influence, just to the north of this lovely little island; the British influence in its grand architecture; the Dutch and Portuguese influence from decades past; and the more recent Chinese influence who have been partnering with Sri Lanka to rebuild and develop this island country.  And it works, in all of its magic and intertwined wonder.

Nites

Oh my goodness, the Shangri-La hotel is stunning!  Located right across from the Indian Ocean, the lobby is breathtaking and the rooms spectacular.  Opt  to pay a little more, if even just for one night stay, to wake to the view of the ocean is so worth it.  Reader beware: there is a lot of development happening directly across from the hotel that appears to be either a marina or another luxury hotel so the stunning views you see on their website may soon disappear.

Closer to the centre of town is a Taj hotel which looks stunning and if you’d prefer to stay closer to the ocean but there is no availability at the Shangri-La, or it is price-restrictive, there is a Hilton just around the corner from the Shangri-La and the Kingsbury Colombo which looks old-school glamour.

Sites

Colombo is such an interesting place, with so many diverse influences that the only real way to see everything is a tour bus.  But reader beware: what appears to be a hop-on-hop-off bus is the antithesis of that: you can’t hop off.  But don’t let that deter you because the sites, and the architecture that makes Colombo so unique, will be covered in about a 4-hour drive.

And if the weather isn’t too hot – you have your choice between hot, hotter, and hottest – go for a walk and take in the lovely architecture that makes this city such an amalgamation of influences.

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Getting that best deal for that to-die-for hotel

When I begin planning a trip, one of the first things that I do is to investigate hotels.  I mean, I’ve gotta stay somewhere right and if you haven’t figured out from my blog posts, I’m a planner.  A serious planner! I also suspect that some would say I’m a picky traveler.  I like to simply believe that I know what I like: I don’t like large hotels, I really don’t like chain hotels, and I really don’t care about the amenities because I’m not there for room service and the swimming pool.  What I am looking for is cool, funky, and fun with some genuinely unique touches.

So how do I go about finding these hotels?  Word of mouth is key!  But given that I often go places that few of my friends have been too, that doesn’t always work.  So I do web searches and, yes, I even look at newspapers, and travel magazines, but I also like to look at blogs like mine.  If you bypass those first few web pages that have either paid for your views or are part of a conglomerate, you’ll start to find people like me who have a love of travel and want to share their insight.  And no disrespect to those travel review websites but, no, I don’t look at them.  If you like them, do it; do what works for you!

But here’s one of the important things in those early stages of discovery: identify as many hotels that you like.  Don’t focus on just one, unless you’re willing to pay whatever rate it is they offer.  The more hotels that fit your requirements, the more options you will have to choose from.

In addition to being a planner, I also like to get the best value for my money that I can.  Which leads me to my next bit of advice: write to the hotels directly.  Don’t be afraid and don’t be embarrassed.  Write to them.  Tell them when you are planning to come.  If it’s for a special occasion, or you are even a return guest, tell them.  And ask then what the best possible rate they can offer will be.

Through trial and error, I’ve learned – yeah, the hard way sometimes – that it’s best to be as specific as possible.  If you see a room that has a balcony that you’d like, or the décor is a specific colour or style that appeals to you, or whatever, ask for rates that reflect that room type.  If you just say that you’re looking for a “room for two and what’s the best possible rate that you can offer?”, that best possible rate could be an interior room with no windows (yep, that happened to me) or the room on the back side of the hotel with no views of the ocean but, instead, a view of the hill behind the hotel that had a path right in front of your window so strangers could look in (that one’s happened a couple of times!)

Some hotels won’t reply, and some may not offer anything better than what you find on their website, but very frequently I’ve found that the hotel will give me a better rate, they will recognize me when I arrive, and sometimes, there is even a very kind welcome drink waiting for me in my room.  I mean, seriously, what’s wrong with that?  For a few minutes of emailing the various hotels that you identified from the start, you may just end up at a gorgeous hotel, at a better rate than those who book last-minute, and a few additional bucks in your pocket for something else.

And last but not least, yes, go back to that social media feed and tag the hotel both when you confirm – it shows your excitement and appreciation and gives them a little free marketing – as well as when you arrive – all for the same reason!  It’s a two-way street: remember that!

Obviously, you can take all of the above with a grain of salt.  If you like a certain chain hotel, then stay there, by all means.  And if you want to accrue points on a hotel booking site, then do it!  It’s your vacation so do what’s right for you so that you have the best possible vacation!

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Torcello – during the day it is a day-tripper’s dream and a night it is calm oasis of nature sounds and the occasional lapping water along the canal sides.

My day job is as a medical publisher and one day, I was speaking with an author about a forthcoming trip to Venezia and she said “you have to go to Torcello!  The island is beautiful and the Locanda Cipriani is amazing!”  I laughed and assured her that I was, indeed, going to Torcello and actually staying at the Locanda AND hosting a party there to which she replied “of course you are!  I think you know Italy better than I do and I’m Italian!”

Nites

The Locanda Cipriani is a charm like no other.  https://www.locandacipriani.com/en/  The inn only has 5 rooms and each are on the first floor.  And I honestly wouldn’t call them luxurious, but they are charming in a familial sort of way.  And although you can hear the other guests coming and going, it’s only because of the old floor boards and closing doors: each room has a double door in order to help with a bit of privacy.

Bites

I am not one for eating at hotel restaurants but the restaurant at the Locanda is absolutely divine.  I’m pretty sure there’s a menu but when I went there – twice – both times I said that I was vegetarian and the waiter kindly offered suggestions based on local produce that was purchased that day.  And I will tell you, I often get nervous in the north of Italy as the food can be heavy – gnocchi with cream sauce and veg for instance – but the food here was not heavy.  It was heavenly.

If you want to venture away from the Locanda, you really should go to Venissa (http://www.venissa.it/) on Burano.  Be sure to check the vaporetto times, unless you have your own boat, because this is well away from Venezia and the frequency of boats aren’t that frequent.

And although I didn’t eat here – I tried but they were closed on the day I had free – the Osteria al Ponte del Diavolo was consistently packed and the menu looked truly inviting.

Sites

The site is the island.  It is not a large island, and not a lot of people live here, but during the day it is a day-tripper’s dream and a night it is calm oasis of nature sounds and the occasional lapping water along the canal sides.

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I am in love with Bergen. I can’t say anything more than it’s been some time since I’ve been to a place that is this inviting, the people this welcoming, and the food this outstanding.

I’ve heard Bergen described as being very German but I found it unique, inviting, lovely, and fun.  I would live here in a heartbeat and I can’t wait to return.

Nites

As the second largest city in Norway, Bergen has many options in terms of hotels: the Clarion collections, the Scandic hotel chains, and Radisson.  But I chose an independent and would stay here every time, even if there aren’t views to the water like the other hotels offer: Det Hanseatiske Hotel (http://www.dethanseatiskehotel.no/en/).  Truly stunning and unique rooms, each different I  believe, and centrally located.  But most of all, the staff, especially Erik, were fantastic and the breakfast outstanding!

Bites

Oh my god.  If you only have one night – or even if you have many! – there is only one place to go.  Lysverket (http://lysverket.no/).  Located in the museum Kode 4, this is a dining experience that must be enjoyed.  Lysverket offers 4 and 7 tasting menus, and you can have it paired with wine, so do what’s best for you.  And as luck would have it, and on a whim, I wrote asking if they could accommodate a vegetarian.  And they could!  So I chose the 4 course option and I tell you that there were 3 “introductions” before the actual meal began.  And each one was stunning!  And kudos to the chef: when I received a course that had poached eggs – something I don’t particularly like but tried – and the staff took the plate away (with mostly uneaten egg), the chef sent out another course to make up for the eggs.  I am still dreaming about this experience.

If you don’t want to eat at Lysverket every night, which I understand as it is a bit on the expensive side, I can highly recommend the Bergen outpost of Kitchen and Table (http://www.kitchenandtable.se/).  Although I liked the version in Tromsø, I loved the outpost in Bergen.  This version also has vegan options available which, even if you are a meat or fish eater, sometimes giving your body a rest is a good thing and the food hear outstanding!

And one final option just because I loved the décor and the old world setting: Potetkjelleren (http://www.potetkjelleren.no/).  Meaning “potato cellar”, this stunning restaurant has an upstairs and cellar restaurant.  The food is beautifully presented and although the options for a vegetarian aren’t numerous, what they are able to offer is lovely.

 Sites

The Bergen card is what you have got to do.  Go to the Akvariet, the museums, and the Floibanen which, totaled up, is more expensive than the Bergen card.

And a must is the Akvariet (https://www.akvariet.no/).  A gorgeous walk, that doesn’t take more than 20 minutes from the city centre, this is a must.  The sea lions, the penguins, the seals, and everything else that they have in this small aquarium are worth it.

The other thing that you must do, which is totally free, is that you must wonder around this gorgeous city, with its stunning houses perched on the hillside overlooking the fjord below.  Be sure to wear comfortable walking shoes as the various roads, alleys, and stairs will invite you to continue exploring and taking photo after photo. It’s literally like walking in a dream village.

I am in love with Bergen.  I can’t say anything more than it’s been some time since I’ve been to a place that is this inviting, the people this welcoming, and the food this outstanding.   Literally, when I win the lottery, this will be my third home!

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Shanghai – the new, modern China that is probably more “western” than any other place I visited.

Nites

Oh my gosh!  The Waterhouse on South Bund is amazing and I could easily have never left my room (beyond the fact that it faced the Pudong side of the river which was amazing).  If you’re looking for cookie-cutter hotels, this is not your place: there is exposed concrete, brick, and steel everywhere.  The only place I saw carpeting was in the hallways, which was odd, but I suspect because of the noise that concrete and steel can cause, this is for the benefit of guests.  But the “design” is unique and oddly comforting which is why I forced myself to leave daily!  (The Cool Docks are right across the street and although it didn’t really offer me much while I was there, I suspect that this, too, is going to be the “it” place to go in the very near future.

Bites

If you only have one night in Shanghai – heck only one night in China! – you must, must, go to Wujie on the Bund (22 Zhongshan East Road [as there is another Wujie that is more casual]).  The staff are attentive, without being intrusive, and the design – both of the space and the uniforms – is so well thought-out that I was blown away.  And the food is absolutely divine!  Predominantly mushroom based, I found the food flavourful, stunningly plated, and very filling.  There is a tasting menu available – that really doesn’t cost much more than the a la carte menu – but as this was my first time, I wanted to choose my meals.  Next time, I WILL be doing the chef’s tasting menu.  Know in advance that this is a vegetarian restaurant, but one that serves wine (thankfully) and, in one week’s time (as of this writing) may just earn its first Michelin Star

Sites

There are sites everywhere in Shanghai, no matter what corner you turn.  Like most people – locals and visitors alike – you can’t visit Shanghai without walking along the Bund: running along the Huangpu river, the sites across the river to the Pudong are stunning.  Likewise, some of the old “western-style” buildings across the road from the pedestrian walkway, are gorgeous as well.  But most stunning is at night: there is literally a light show on the buildings of the Pudong that will hold your gaze for hours (unless you’re at the Waterhouse in room 31 which has direct views to the light show!).

The Wujiang Road from the Bund is basically a pedestrian only walking street.  It’s cool and gives you a sense of an Eastern pedestrian only street which I quite enjoyed.  But reader beware: there are “hawkers” everywhere offering bags and watches and they are really persistent.  There is also an odd thing that happens, that I’m really not sure what’s happening, but it is without a doubt that you will be approached by a young woman – you’ll see her walk straight toward you – and when she gets close, she’ll say something, but I have no idea what it is.  Being the skeptic that I am, I suspect prostitution – I thought I heard one whisper “sex” – but, regardless, stay clear and be on your way and your trip will be amazing.

Shanghai is an amazing place, and one that I would certainly want to return to.  It’s arguably the most modern of China’s cities, if not the most western, but when taken in to consideration with the rest of China and what it has to offer, it really shouldn’t be missed!

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Hangzhou/West Lake – a wonderful, relaxing, lake-side retreat to recharge and recenter before your next stop in the mad-packed land that is China.

A friend of mine, when I told her that I was going to see the “silver lake” she questioned it and said “okay, if you really want to see the grey lake”.  I get it, and it’s not the place that you would spend an enormous amount of time, but I must admit that I really liked it here.  Granted, it was hot, and teaming with people, but it was also oddly calming and tranquil and I enjoyed it immensely.  Advice to the reader: West Lake is a lake, and thus water, which means that there are also mosquitos everywhere.  Bring mosquito repellent!

Further advice: Hangzhou and West Lake, to my surprise, had the fewest number of people who even spoke a modicum of English so be prepared to do a little pantomime, and be sure to have the names of where you are going written out in Chinese (you should do this everywhere you go in China or you will be in a pickle!).

Nites

The Shangri-La hotel is in a prime location on West Lake: you literally can walk out the door and either walk along the Su Causeway or the Bai Causeway.  It was for this reason, and despite the various “unfavourable” reviews that I had read, that made me stay here.  And for that reason alone, I would say that you can stay here and you will be fine.  And I will say that the staff are fantastic and go well out of their way to help you!  But the hotel is a bit tired, and you do pay for your location which I had a little trouble justifying in my head, especially for the breakfast since there are no other options nearby, so just be prepared and you’ll be fine

If you want something exciting and just a bit more of a walk to the causeway, I think I can safely recommend The New Hotel (http://thenewhotel.com/).  The name alone makes it difficult to find on a web search, and thus I would bet just as difficult for a taxi driver to find, but the lobby and the outside look stunning and I did wish I had stayed here.

All of the major chains have hotels around West Lake so if you’re not comfortable trying something different, pick your favourite and you probably won’t go wrong.

Bites

After more than a week of Chinese food, I thought I might be in need of something different so, after reading some glowing reviews, I ventured to the Sawasdee Thai Restaurant.  Unbeknownst to me, the Thai restaurant is in the Wyndham hotel on the north east side of the lake, and although I don’t typically dine in hotel restaurants unless I can avoid it, I must say that food was outstanding!  The staff were great, and the “amuse bouche” that was brought out was stunning: betal leaves with a variety of toppings like onion, peanut, coconut, and of course chillies, with a sweet and sour sauce is now what I dream to have again!  The prices are little higher than many other places that I visited in my travels, and probably 3 times as much as the restaurant the night before (not worth reviewing), but at the end of the day, the food was worth it and we are really only talking about $30!  (Yes, that inexpensive!)

Sites

You can’t come to the West Lake and not walk along the causeways.  If you can go early, before the heat rises as well as everyone else who will be taking a stroll, you’ll have better and somewhat unobstructed views of the lake and downtown Hangzhou.

You will also be remiss if you don’t take a “pleasure boat” to Small Yingzhou Island in the middle of the lake.  It really doesn’t take long to navigate the entire island, and the boat trip to and from is relaxing and, depending on how much walking you’ve done, a welcomed respite for your feet.

But the one thing that I enjoyed, which no one really recommended, was the hike up to the Baochu Pagoda and back down by the Baopu Daoist Temple.  It’s a hike, with a lot of steps, but the views are stunning and to see something that isn’t quite so touristy, and certainly less crowded, I loved it!  You can also hike a little higher to one of the highest points in West Lake, which I didn’t due to time and hunger, so if you have the time, I think it’s worth the extended trek!

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Chengdu – pandas, not to mention a laid back city (for China) but also one of the fastest growing and inviting cities.

Pandas.  What more is there to say?!  Yes, Chendu is a cool city with much to offer, both historically, and as the city develops, and not to mention phenomenal shopping, but I would guess that most people come to Chengdu to be as close to the pandas and this is the perfect place.

Nites

Oh my word, the Rhombus Park Aura Hotel (https://www.rhombuschengduhotel.com/) is absolutely divine!  To be honest, I was nervous and even considered changing my hotel before I started my travels to a “known entity” – like the Grand Hyatt down the street, or the Marriott just a little further away – but I am so happy I didn’t.  The room is stunning and looks brand new, the breakfast is fantastic and a great way to start your day, but most of all, the staff – Mia, Jennifer, and Daisy are the bee’s knees – were some of the kindest and most helpful people I met throughout my travels.  Some of the staff speak little English – but hey, I speak no Chinese – but if they don’t understand, they’ll find someone who does.  And for bonus points: when I checked out, it was a very early check-out because of my flight and Daisy made sure that a “to go” breakfast bag was available for the taxi ride to the airport.  Perfect customer service!

Bites

The Wenshu Temple Vegetarian Restaurant is just a tad “up town” from where most of the hotels are located but trust me when I say that it is worth the visit.  There are two restaurants here: the ground floor is a buffet and the second floor is the more upscale a la cart restaurant.  Go for the 2nd floor: it won’t cost you nearly as much as you might think and the room is stunning.  Although listed as vegetarian, I think it is vegan so be prepared for no milk or eggs – I didn’t see anything with either on the menu – and no alcohol.  I’ve never been one for drinking fruit juices with dinner – it fills me up, taking up space for the great food – so I just settled for water.  But here’s what I found funny here, as well as other places in China: the menus are typically on a tablet of some sort, with photos and descriptions.  In any part of the United States or Europe, if I saw pictures of the food offered, I’d keep on walking!  But in China, it seems to be the norm, and when you don’t speak or read Chinese, well, it was a welcomed help.

My last night in Chengdu was supposed to be a food tour with the Chengdu Food Tour but alas, I messed up my times and arrived 2 hours late.  Being somewhat dejected and not too interested in venturing out to find something to eat, I opted to dine at the Rhombus Park Aura Hotel.  And boy am I glad that I did!  When I mentioned that I was vegetarian, the chef kindly came out to discuss what he could do, and what I was interested in and it was lip-smacking delicious!  I think the chef was a little concerned that I didn’t eat all of my food – just a salad and some wok friend noodles and veg – but when I said it was delicious and just too much, he said “but you’re a big athletic man and I thought you needed a lot”, it made me laugh and not feel quite so bad for wasting my food.  If you only had one night in Chengdu, I would go to Wenshu Temple Vegetarian but if you’re tired, or short on time, the hotel restaurant will not let you down and you shouldn’t feel bad for staying in.

Sites

My whole reason for going to Chengdu was about the pandas.  Can you really travel all this way to China and not visit a panda park?  Roughly 1 hour or more outside of Chengdu is the Dujiangyan Base of China Conservation and Research Centre for the Giant Panda.  They have an amazing volunteer programme that costs 700RMB which entitles you to work with the pandas (cleaning cages), feeding them, speaking with the staff, and watching a 1 hr documentary.  (I was skeptical of the documentary but it is fantastic and you really must watch it!)  So here are some tips and tricks that I learned along the way:

  • DO NOT BOOK A TOUR GUIDE TO THE CENTER! Everywhere I looked, I found ridiculously expensive “tours” to the center.  But if you write to the centre directly pandaeducatecenter@163.com they will give you the information that you need in order to volunteer which, for the most part, is the completion of a health certificate from your doctor and an application.
  • Once you arrive at the centre, go straight to the turnstile and ask for the Volunteer Programme. They will escort you inside, someone will be your “guide” and that’s who you stay with for the remainder of the day.  Thus, why you don’t need a tour guide as noted above.
  • Getting from downtown to the Panda Centre does require a transfer, probably from your hotel. This cost me 1200RMB and was mostly for the driver to wait all day.  Yes, it’s expensive, but given that there are no convenient busses, and certainly no trains, the only other option is a rental car and there’s no way that I would drive in Chengdu (or anywhere else in China by myself).
  • Pictures with the pandas are the most expensive part, at 1800RMB. But if you think of it as a donation, and a once-in-a-lifetime experience, it makes it a little easier to justify.  You can pay in cash, or with a card, so don’t sweat the details!  You will be given about “20 seconds” with the panda, and the guides will take pictures of you, as well as your travel buddy, so trust me when I tell you you’ll have plenty of photos!

The Wenshu Temple area is also a great place to visit and wonder.  The Temple and the monastery next to it are stunning, with seemingly something different around every corner.  I was shocked at how much land the Temple took up because, from the outside, it looks really quite small.  But a note to the reader: there is a LOT of building happening around the Temple, all of which appears to be shops designed in the shape of the Temple buildings so what is currently a very quaint and, what I assume to be, true representation of old Chengdu will soon become very gentrified (like much of China).

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The perfect place to see the Great Wall of China

The Great Wall of China really must be on everyone’s bucket list.  It’s a work  out, and an architectural feat of magnitude impossible to match!

Beigou Village is a little over an hour outside of Beijing but also home to one of the most gorgeous portions of the (restored) Great Wall of China, the Mutianyu.  In recent years, the local government has limited the number and types of vehicles that can bring tourists to this portion of the Wall so, although still occasionally crowded (especially on weekends) it is manageable and something that I’m certain I won’t forget in this lifetime.

Nites

The Brickyard Eco Retreat (http://brickyardatmutianyu.com/) is absolutely stunning and I don’t think I could recommend anything further.  Started some 20 years ago, other “hotels” have started to pop up but this is where you want to be: a quiet oasis, with lovely rooms with two-story glass walls looking out, some toward the Great Wall (room 1-4 is stunning and on the end!). As part of the oasis theme, the rooms have no TV, or telephone, but they do have a fairly strong wifi connections just in case you can’t stay disconnected for too long.

If the Brickyard doesn’t seem to be your thing, they have sister properties called the Commune by the Great Wall (the most expensive) and the Schoolhouse (which has cooking classes if there are enough participants interested).

And for those who don’t want to walk, or take the shuttle provided by the Brickyard, I do know that there is a small hotel at the base of the tourist entry point to Mutianyu.  I couldn’t find any details on line, but I know it exists, so it may be a tour-group only property, or one that only exists in Chinese, but if you really don’t want to stay at the Brickyard – which would be a mistake – I’m sure you can figure it out.

Bites

Sadly, this is where we fall short.  The restaurant on the property is fine, and perhaps even good, but for the price of what you are paying for, it is obvious that we are paying for location and the utter lack of availability anywhere else.  So, reader, come prepared for a lovely stay but also having to stay here for a decent meal. The menu doesn’t change so if you have limited interests or your diet is limited (like this vegetarian) it won’t be the most engaging meal but it does the trick.  And the hotel does have some local craft beers from Beijing available so that was a nice “perk” (albeit expensive).  (I can tell you that I did venture to another place for dinner and it was pretty dire so avoid the onsite recommendation, regardless of what food type you like. And they close around 18.00 which I still can’t get over!)

Sites

Really, is there anything else other than the Great Wall of China?  I think not!  The Brickyard has a map of trails for the adventurous, or they can drive you to the tourist drop-off site with ticket windows and you go up that way.  There are 2 options from the drop off site: you can walk up a bunch of steps or you can take the chairlift (talk about breathtaking!).  But if you are willing, and have good shoes, and are slightly in shape, I highly recommend “Trail 8” from the Brickyard.  It’s a beast, and you will be winded by the time you make it to the Wall (in under 2 hours), but you will also be at the highest peak available and the walk “down” is all the more enjoyable. And the views down through the valley are like little I’ve seen.  Stunning.

You can’t go to China, or Beijing, without going to the Great Wall of China.  You just can’t.  Sure, you can do day tours from Beijing but what I did, and what I would recommend, is that after a few days in Beijing of non-stop walking and touring, you give yourself a little bit of a respite, spend a night or two in Beigou, and really get to know the Great Wall of China.

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The rapidly disappearing old parts of the city – the hutong – are a sight to behold

Nites

As you can imagine in a city the size of Beijing, the variety of places to stay is overwhelming.  If, however, you are prepared to forego the typical chain hotel or “new kid on the block”, I would recommend that you consider the Orchid (https://www.theorchidbeijing.com/).  Located in one of the cities few remaining hutong (alleyway) neighborhoods, it really is a site to behold, especially before more and more of the hutongs are overtaken for gentrification.  Small in size, but big in charm and heart, the staff here will treat you as though they’ve known you for years.  Because Beijing is so large, you really can only do things in this part of town but trust me when I tell you that, with three days, you can see some really amazing things.

Bites

Sadly, this time around, I don’t really have recommendations for bites but, fear not, you won’t go hungry!  Check out “sites” below some suggestions

Sites

You can’t go to Beijing and not visit the various temples dotted around the city.  Every travel guide book will cover these in amazing detail so I don’t need to add to it.  But you must go; they are breathtaking!

If you only had one night in Beijing, I highly recommend trying to book a seat with Lost Plate (http://lostplate.com/).  You and a bunch of your new friends will be whisked around the hutongs of Beijing in cool 4-person tuk tuks to a plethora of small, family run restaurants where you can try different foods (that you may not have tried on your own, or been uncertain of whether it was “safe” or not, and experience a whole new way of life.  Add to the fact that they provide unlimited beer and soda, you can’t go wrong.  As something of an introvert, I had the best time and literally laughed and talked about food for about 4 hours!  Call this a “must do”.

Another thing that I recommend is taking a class at the Hutong (http://thehutong.com/). They offer a variety of cooking classes, tea tastings, and other historically informative tours on their website.  I did the dumpling class and by the time we were finished and I had eaten more than my fair share of dumplings, my dinner reservation for that evening was no longer possible.

Beijing is a big place, with a lot to see and learn and my short 3-day visit didn’t really do it justice but I can tell you it was enough to make me want to return and explore further.  I can’t wait!

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Murano – stunning glass work and so much more!

I have been visiting Venezia on a yearly basis, and every year includes a day in Murano: a day of strolling the canals, looking at the glass work, and occasionally strolling in to a church.  But it wasn’t until this trip that I realized that there is so much more to this wonderful island and I am smitten!

Nights

Sometime in 2016 (I think), the Hotel Le Gare (http://www.lagarehotelvenezia.com/en/) opened on Murano and I have been dying to stay there since.  It did not disappoint!  The hotel is modern, but mixes in the famous glass of Murano, the architectural details and structures from the original building (an old furnace), and is just so welcoming and inviting that you may not want to leave.

I will also tell you that Murano is an island of two faces: during the day, it is overrun with tourists looking for that special gift to take home.  But at night, when the tourists leave, this is a wonderland of solitude, and quiet, and even reflection like few other places I have ever been.

Bites

If you only have one night in Murano, be sure to book the Osteria Aquastanca (http://www.acquastanca.it/homepage-en/).  It’s only a short walk from the Le Gare and the food is absolutely divine!  When I arrived, the entrance was full of locals talking to the owner and the barman.  And immediately after sitting down, the restaurant was joined by 2 other guests, at separate tables: one, a local woman having her dinner and another man, just returning from business, who stopped in hoping to have meal.  And given that they kindly made vegetarian options for me – carcioffi (in season!) with fresh mozzarella – I knew I was in love.

Sites

Lose yourself.  Wonder around.  Get lost.  It’s an island after all so when you see water, and if that’s not where you want to be, then turn in a different direction.

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Otranto – the furtherst point east in all of Italy

Roughly 40 minutes drive – or longer, if you continue to stop and soak in the amazing vistas across the Adriatic to Greece along the coastal road – is the lovely village of Otranto.  It’s smaller than Lecce, which means that it’s smaller than many typically-viewed tourist ventures, but that doesn’t mean you shouldn’t go.   In fact, you must go.  Put it on your bucket list!  Otranto has a vibrant centro storico and incredible food too!

Nites

As I wondered around Otranto – more specifically, the centro storico and the immediate surroundings outside the city walls – it became very apparent that whatever sort  of lodging you might be searching for, you will find it: B&Bs, 2-star, 4-star, and even 5-star are all available with just a bit of searching.

I chose to stay at the Basiliani Resort and Spa (http://www.basilianiresort.com/en) which is, in all honestly, about a 10 minute walk from the centro storico.  I was looking for a restful place where I could take some sun, read a lot, and just shut down from the work environment and I found it here.  The staff at the Basiliani were fantastic, and the rooms, although minimalist in décor, were large, each had its own balcony of some sort, and an aesthetic that I have come to expect from Italian beach “resorts”.  And so you know, the pool is huge!  There are, however, a few things to be prepared for before booking: the breakfast is horrible but as long as you don’t depend on that as your only sustenance, you’ll be fine .  (And hint: don’t drink the coffee from the machine but ask the staff for a cappuccino and they’ll make a decent coffee.)  And they tend to “charge” for things that, at least to me, seem like they should have been included but, as long as you are prepared, you’ll be fine.

If you want something closer to the centre, I would try the Hotel Palazzo Papaleo (http://www.hotelpalazzopapaleo.com/).  I seriously considered  this hotel for my trip but because the Basiliani had a pool, and the Palazzo didn’t, well… The hotel looks stunning and it is centrally located within the city walls of the centro storico.  I would go here in the non-sun-worshiper months!

Bites

Oh my god.  The food in Otranto is outstanding and I would have stayed here longer to go back to a few places and to find more!

If I only had one night in Otranto, I would have a very tough time deciding where to dine.  Ultimately, I would choose L’Altro Baffo Ristorante (http://www.laltrobaffo.com/).  Reservations are imperative: they literally have a “velvet rope” preventing people from just walking so that you wait for them to approach you.  But it is worth it!  The wine list is impressive and the pours eye-boggling (and for next to nothing!).  And the food outstanding!   I would say that the food is more along the nouvo Italiano sort but it was still fresh, simple, and so incredibly flavourful: where do we get our tomatoes in the US?!

laltro-baffo-vino laltro-baffo-orecchiette-con-le-cime-di-rapaOn  my second night – because I would stay a second night just to eat here – I would run to Peccato di Vino (http://www.peccatodivino.com/).   I say run for two very important reasons, one  of which is that they don’t take reservations.  I arrived shortly after opening and left over 1.5 hours later, never feeling rushed, especially when, upon leaving, I saw the throngs of people waiting to be seated!  And the other reason to run here, is the food is just that outstanding and the head of the house, or the owner, I’m not sure, was so knowledgeable about wines, and what to try, that I could have stayed there forever if only my liver could have held up (and the people outside wouldn’t have shot me!)  And just in case you really only have 1 night in Otranto, perhaps you could consider lunch at Peccato di Vino and dinner at L’Altro Baffo: you only live once right?!

peccato-di-vino-pastaSites

The sites of Otranto are found in just walking.  Your guidebooks and websites will tell you the things that you must see, but the things that you want to see are those things that you find where your feet take you.  Whatever you do, please don’t miss the Cathedral and the Chiesa San Pietro.  The Cathedral will blow your mind with the mosaic floor, much of which you can’t see up close in order to protect it, but enough of it that you can see how much love and respect went in to its creation.  And the Chiesa di San Pietro, the tiny little church in a tiny little piazza has some of the most stunning byzantine artifacts I have ever seen.  I literally could have stayed there for an hour, if there was room in the little church, looking at every aspect of this wonderful craftsmanship.

chiesa-san-pietro-02Otranto may not be for everyone as there really isn’t a lot to do other than to go to the beach or rest at a pool until night falls and you begin your evening with a passeggiata, and perhaps a drink at any of the many cocktail bars popping up around Puglia, and  then dinner, and another post-meal stroll.  It’s the way life should be, if you ask me: relaxing, with friends, and good food, and good wine, and a true respect for that which has preceded us.  I’ll be back… I’ll hope you’ll follow.

strada

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Lecce – The so-called Florence of the south

Halfway down the heel that is the book of Italy, you’ll find the most charming, and welcoming, city of Lecce.  It’s been years since I’ve been to Lecce and upon my return, fond memories flooded back as if only a few months had passed.  Often referred to as “the Florence of the south”, I think it has more to offer and is a monument of civic pride, and beauty, all unto itself.

Nites

There are quite a few options in Lecce for where to stay: from the quaint bed and breakfast to the 5-star hotels in and around the city.  But honestly, because it’s so far south and I’m still uncertain how much tourism there is – or sadly, perhaps tourism is down because of last month’s horrific earthquake in central Italy – your euro will go quite far so think outside the box.

The Risorgimento Resort (http://www.risorgimentoresort.com/) could only have been better located if  it is within the Roman Amphitheatre!  The location alone  is what makes this hotel a charmer but I’m still not sure they quite deserve a 5-star notation: the hotel is great, but it’s tired, it needs some maintenance, and this is probably the first 5-star I’ve been to without luxury toiletries (which I was hoping for, to be honest).   But the breakfast was great, the staff outstanding, and the beds were divine.  And the bathroom!  I’ve seen apartments in NY and Paris that are smaller than the bathroom!

If the Risorgimento Resort is a bit too outside your price range, I had a one-night stay at a funky hotel just outside the city walls called Hotel 8Piu (http://www.8piuhotel.com/en).  But readers be warned: the hotel photos don’t show just quite how outside the city centre the hotel is, nor that they are across the street from car dealerships and next to the strada provinciale (neither of which you can hear).  But that said, the staff are amazing, the rooms quiet, and incredibly comfortable.  I had read things that said, even when the lights are off, there are remnants of the funky “colour therapy” that they have in the rooms, but that wasn’t true for me.   And if you stay here, be sure  to ask for a room looking on to the park/gardens behind the hotel (I was in room 131).

And if money is no object, and you have a rental car (only if you want to leave either destination and go in to Lecce… which I’m not sure I would want to leave) you have to wonderful options: the Masseria Trapana (http://www.trapana.com/en/) and La Fiermontina (http://www.lafiermontina.com/).  I have not had the pleasure of staying at either, but they are both definitely on my bucket list as they look stunning!  And it doesn’t hurt that they’ve been getting a lot of press, arguably the most  visible being in Condé Nast’s Traveler magazine (read more here: http://www.cntraveler.com/stories/2015-11-12/lecce-italian-vacation)

Bites

Puglia is known as the home of burrata and my goodness, it is better than any other place that I have ever eater this Italian wonder!  Fresh, and oozy, and flavourful, and yes, my mouth is watering as I write!

If I only had one night in Lecce, I would eat at Ristorante Il Vico del Gusto (http://www.ilvicodelgusto.it/).  With absolutely no exaggeration, I knew as my antipasto arrived that I wanted to return immediately.  Slightly off the beaten path, which means that it’s not totally overrun with tourists, Il Vico is a proper restaurant with succulent food, accommodating staff and a chef for this vegetarian, and an absolutely wonderful wine list.  This may be the sort of food that one could call “Nouvo Italiano” but that doesn’t matter because it was just that good! There were a few tables  outside but, given the dry heat, I opted to sit inside and never wanted to leave!  (Why did I?!)

il-vico-del-gustoil-vico-del-gusto-burratail-vico-del-gusto-pasta-with-tomatoes-olives-and-oil il-vico-del-gusto-tiramisuMy final night in Lecce was meant to be at Trattoria Cucina Casareccia – Le Zie (http://www.lezie.it/) but, sadly, they called the night before to let me know that there was a death in the family and they would be closed.  Although I am sad for the family, this just gives me another reason to return.  And, sadly, I did not listen to my gut and return to Il Vico del Gusto but, instead, went to another restaurant that isn’t worth acknowledging (despite what some of those travel sites will tell you!)

If you have a third night in Lecce, I would suggest seeking out Trattoria di Nonna Tetti.  It’s  an interesting little restaurant, off a side street in Lecce, with absolutely wonderful food and a nice selection of wine.  My warning to readers is that 1, if you’re there when it is warm, be forewarned that despite having AC, it doesn’t work very well and you know, when you eat hot food, we get hot and…, alas, everyone was sweating quite a bit in this little restaurant with great food.  The other thing to be prepared for is that they don’t have a lot of wait staff.  I think this is, in part, because the place is so small and the kitchen is downstairs and there is a lot of running up and down the stairs, so service can be slow but it is worth it so, as long as you are prepared, you’ll have a wonderful evening.

Sites

Other than what your travel guide or website tells you, there really are no secret gems in Lecce.  It’s an amazing place to wonder around, and simply get lost.  And if you’re in to it, as I am, check out the various churches that seem to be around every corner.  Talk about stunning!  And when you look at the native stone that this city was built of, and you see how it has, slowly, begun to weather, you can’t help but appreciate the craftsmanship and love that the inhabitants of Lecce have put in to this city.

It’s a wonderful place, this city called Lecce, and I encourage everyone to visit and to use it as a starting point for your adventures south in to the Puglia (or Apulia) region.  The food is divine, the vistas breathtaking, and with a good GPS, and stern conviction, you can find an amazing part of Italy that really is different from the more tourist trodden areas that we all (at least me) have come to know and love.

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Asolo – a small Italian town of calm reflection

I’m not sure what drew me to Asolo – as I could honestly spend the rest of my life in Venice or one of the smaller islands – but there was something about Asolo that brought me to this small town at the foot of the Dolomites and brought a calm over me that was much needed. Asolo is only about 1 hour away from Venice (by car or train) and for a short get away, you really can’t go wrong this tiny little hamlet.

Nites

The Albergo Al Sole (http://www.albergoalsoleasolo.com/en) is a stunning hotel just above the town square of Asolo with gorgeous views to the valley below. The lobby fireplace was a lovely respite from my rainy days in Asolo and the large balcony off the dining room was amazing: I would return just for the chance to dine on the balcony alone! The rooms are huge and the breakfast in the morning outstanding! And the staff! How fantastic were they?! Always willing to help, to advise, or just to make sure everything was to our liking. And given the size of Asolo, you truly can’t be more centrally located.

Albergo Al SoleAlthough I didn’t stay here, but the name alone will certainly give you a sense of what to expect, the other competing hotel in Asolo is the Villa Cipriani (http://www.villaciprianiasolo.com/en/) about a 3 minute walk from the town square. The Cipriani presents everything that you expect from this Italian brand: glamour, views, and the staff in crisp suits. As I said, I didn’t stay here but I can tell you that the bar area is classic hunting lodge design and I can only imagine what it would be like outdoors in the summer.

Bites

If I only had one night in Asolo, I would go back to the Locanda Baggio da Nona (http://www.locandabaggio.it/). Although the staff’s knowledge of English was somewhat limited, and the local dialect can be a challenge, I found the food outstanding! The pasta – not on the menu but kindly created for me as a vegetarian who doesn’t like risotto – was out of this world! And the interior design was just so welcoming and charming and the staff doing their best to help the table of foreigners.

pasta at Locanda Baggio da NonaI can also highly recommend Ristorante due Mori (http://www.2mori.it/). If you look at their website, you’ll see the most stunning views of the valley below: sadly, at night in the winter, that view isn’t available but in the summer with longer days and shorter nights, I can only image what that view holds and I will return. The wine list was small but well chosen and the food was akin to a bridge between classic and modern, which I loved.

We were also fortunate to happen upon a lovely little place that was absolutely fantastic for a leisurely lunch: Pane Vino e S. Daniele (http://www.panevinospa.it/). Located on via Robert Browning, under the curved arches that make this town so charming and memorable, is what appears to be a small café when, in reality, it is a lot larger and the food simple, classic, and wonderful. They also have wines by the class that, had I had more time, I would have returned just to try a few of their recommendations. This is a keeper!

Sites

There isn’t a lot to really go and see when in Asolo itself so a car really is important. But before leaving Asolo, I highly recommend walking up the hill to the castle that overlooks the village, and the Albergo Al Sole, for the views. When I was here, the castle was closed – open only the end of March through the end of October – but from what I could see just from the outside, the views are magnificent.

Right across the small street from the Albergo Al Sole is the former villa of Robert Browning. Sadly, it is not open to the public as it is privately owned by what appears to be 4 families, but the architecture and the grounds that slope down to the town square are out phenomenal. I so want to visit!

Robert Browning's villa 02But with a car, you can visit a number of stunning designs by the famed Italian architect, Andrea Palladio (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Andrea_Palladio). The Villa Elmo, which is roughly 25 minutes drive from Asolo (and a lovely drive at that!) is a stunning example of the work that, eventually, Thomas Jefferson became a fan of and became a reference for the US Capital building in Washington, DC.

Villa Emo fresco 05Asolo doesn’t have the big shops that Venice does, and the town doesn’t assume so much space that you can walk for hours and hours, but Asolo does bring peace and solitude that sometimes, in this crazy and fast-paced world, we need. I will return to Asolo and maybe I’ll even see you there too, having a prosecco while sitting outside watching the world, slowly, move by.

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St Petersburg – truly one of the most beautiful cities with truly lovely people that I have ever visited.

Everyone keeps asking me “why did you go to St Petersburg” and I honestly can’t answer that other than to say “why not”? But now that I’ve gone, and returned, it is truly one of the most beautiful cities with truly lovely people that I have ever visited.

Nites

My research for hotels for my short stay in St Petersburg were extensive and you can find all levels of accommodation if you look hard enough. But if money is no object, or, if the ruble is still week to the dollar and the euro, I wouldn’t consider any other place other than the Belmond Grand Hotel Europe (http://www.belmond.com/grand-hotel-europe-st-petersburg/). And for just a little extra, splurge for a room that overlooks the park and the Cathedral of Our Savior on Spilled Blood. This is truly a stunning hotel with perfect attention to detail, very comfortable rooms and beds, and centrally located to everything that you really must see.

Belmond Grand Hotel EuropeBites

If I only had one night in St Petersburg, I would go to Vincent Restaurant (http://vin-cent.ru/). The website is in Russian but you can find other reviews on different sites. A wonderful wine bar situated closed to the Mariinsky Theatre, this little restaurant was an absolute joy. The staff didn’t speak English that well – but then, I don’t speak any Russian – but the menu was in English and when I asked for vegetarian options, the waitress left, and out came a manager who spoke perfect English, asked me what I wanted, and a short time later, a lovely plate of pasta with winter vegetables.   And the wine list?! Hold on to your seat because the wine menu is extensive and covers wines from every region in the world!

vincent restaurant interior

For my vegetarian readers, I would recommend Botanika (www.cafebotanika.ru). Slightly off the beaten path, and not an interior designer’s best work, but an easy walk from the Belmond Grand Hotel, this was a wonderful with outstanding vegetarian and vegan options. And the staff! They were amazing and helpful to this goofy American!

Sites

The Hermitage (https://www.hermitagemuseum.org/wps/portal/hermitage/?lng=en). When I knew I would have the chance to visit St Petersburg, this was the one place that I had to go. And trust me when I tell you it is worth the lines and the time. Some of the art is in sad shape and desperately needs to be restored, but the history of the building, and the grandeur of the entire place is so breathtaking that this shouldn’t stop you. We spent an entire day in the original building, seeking out old friends like Caravaggio, Rembrandt, and Rubens, and then over to the adjacent building which will soon house all of the Impressionists work like their immense collections of Monet, Manet, and Van Gogh. With another day, we would have been blessed to see all of the other pieces that had to be skipped due to time constraints.

State Hermitage Museum

When in Russia, one must go to the ballet! The Mariinska theatre (http://www.mariinsky.ru/en/) is an amazing venue that really cannot be missed. I visited the New Mariinsky Theatre, so I can’t comment on the old (the original), but the new is out of this world with all modern features and architecture and what I would call cozy: the theatre really isn’t that large so unless you choose seats at the very top, I suspect everyone else has a good view of the stage. But a note to the reader: if you are there at any time when an outside coat is required (rain, cold, windy, etc), bring your patience. Leaving your coat at the coat check is exceptionally easy but retrieving your coat takes the patience of a monk! The lines are long, they aren’t that clearly defined, and it really is quite chaotic. But go! Book that ticket because I promise, you won’t be disappointed!

And the Cathedral of Our Savior on Spilled Blood is a must. This is quintessential Russian architecture and what this writer expected, and wasn’t disappointed. Absolutely stunning!

The Church of the Savior on Spilled BloodAnd although a departure from my other posts, please allow me to give a bit of insight in to getting to St Petersburg. You can fly, of course, but there’s really no fun in that. Instead, I would tell you to go to Helsinki, spend some time in this lovely city by the Gulf of Finland and the Baltic Sea and then take the train to St Petersburg. It’s only 3.5 hours and when else will you get to see the countryside of both Finland and Russia? And trust me when I tell you that, when crossing the border, it is the weirdest feeling, knowing that you are going to a country where you just may not have the same rights as you do in Europe: so close, you so far!

train view to guard towerThis really was a magical experience for me and I can’t wait to return. The short visas offered by the Russian government make it a challenge to see and do everything but even if you only had one day, it is worth the effort (which can be quite extensive!), and the time, and even the cost. I assure you, you won’t be disappointed in this city on the Baltic!

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Berlin – where old meets new and a fresh look forward

(updated 08 July 2018)

I love Berlin. You see that on shirts and mugs all over the city but I really do love it here; it’s vibrant, it’s old meets new, and the people really are some of the nicest people I’ve met in my travels. Or perhaps I should say “I love Berliners”.

Nites

I’m still on the look out for the perfect place to stay in Berlin. A while ago I found the hotel Ku’ Damm 101 (http://www.kudamm101.com/en/) which is a funky hotel in the Charlottenberg area of Berlin and I must admit that it is well located and the staff really are quite friendly. But reader beware: rooms on the lower level facing the Ku’ Damm can be quite loud so don’t accept the first room that you receive and if you aren’t happy, let them know because, speaking from experience, the traffic noise can be loud. But other than that, I like this hotel.

Bites

I am sad to say that my favourite restaurant in Berlin “d31” has now closed so it’s obvious (to me!) that I must return and find more restaurants to add to my list.  But, until I do, I can still recommend these

Another recommendation that I can’t confirm, but I trust my friend so I include it here, is Weiner Beisl (http://www.wiener-beisl.de/), a charming, traditional German restaurant that if I only had one more day in Berlin, I would be trying myself.

Now, if you want what I can only describe as nouvaeu German cuisine, I would highly recommend that you go to Katz Orange (http://www.katzorange.com/en). It’s in the Mitte part of the city but you can easily get there via the U-bahn and the S-bahn, or just take a taxi. The décor is phenomenal, the staff truly helpful and informed, and the food divine. The traditional flavours of German cooking, in a more modern presentation and style. And oh so tasty!

On my return, I hope to go to eins44 (http://www.eins44.com/). I am literally obsessed by this restaurant based on the website and the menu alone. More when I return!

If you are looking for a break from what can sometimes be heavy food, I can heartily recommend Satyam (no website but the address is Grohlmanstrasse 22, 10623 Berlin-Charlottenburg; tel: 030 312 30 29) which isn’t too far from the Ku’Damm hotel and, even if it were, it is worth checking out.

Sites

I love Berlin and I love walking everywhere, and to as many things and sites as I can. Beyond what every run of the mill guidebook tells you to see, I can’t add to that other to say that this is a phenomenal people-watching city and you must take advantage of it.

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Taormina may be a tourist mecca but it really can’t be missed.

Taormina is an interesting place for me, and also a bit of a quandary: it is incredibly touristy, and you are often overrun by tour groups but at the end of the day, both literally and figuratively, I do love this city and its people and think that everyone should visit at least once in their life.

Nites

Finding anything other than tour-group overrun and typical is pretty difficult in this hill-top town, if not impossible. Although it’s not the most unique hotel, I did enjoy the Hotel Monte Tauro (http://www.hotelmontetauro.it/eng/index.html). The breakfast was lovely and if you are patient and wait until the inevitable tour group that has overrun the hotel have departed – typically after 9am – you can enjoy a peaceful breakfast looking over the sea. And despite the tourists, I must admit that the rooms, and more specifically their balconies, are worth the price (although I suspect every hotel in the city has balconies with views).

Bites

Despite all its restaurants, Taormina only has one slow food movement restaurant and trust me when I tell you, it is worth the trek and you really must find it: Tischi Toschi (no website). The inside restaurant has only a few tables and the outside just as few so be sure to book in advance because it is so worth it.   Thankfully, the restaurant had vegetarian options for me but the food that passed my table, regardless of what it was, smelled and looked absolutely divine.   And if you only have one night in Taormina, and you go here of course, you must have the “Sicilian pesto”: a wonderful combination of oil, garlic, almonds or pistachio, and a bit more garlic. Mmmmmm.

Another find that was actually recommended by the hotel was A’Zammara (http://www.zammara.it/lang1/) which truly was fantastic.   Situated on a small side street, with its own garden, the food was lovely and expertly prepared, the staff really quite sweet, and solace of being away from the hustle and bustle of the tourists a welcomed respite from it all.

Sites

I’m not sure there are really sites that can be recommended besides those that are in every possible guide book. I would, however, strongly encourage you to take a day trip to Etna, even though it is touristy, as you can, for the most part, do whatever you want, and take as much time or as little to explore and see one of the largest and most active volcanoes in Europe.

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Siracusa – a peaceful and relaxing get-away from the craziness that can be Sicily

Siracusa has such fond memories for me and my latest return did not let me down. The city is old, and there are parts that are falling down and in desperate need of repair, and then there are parts that are charming and inviting and, inevitably, the whole place puts a smile on my face.

Nites

In trying to find hotels that I could recommend, I happened upon the Charme Hotel Henry’s House (http://www.hotelhenryshouse.com/en) which I recommend whole-heartedly. Henry’s House is not your cookie cutter hotel so if you are looking for bland rooms and uniformed staff, this is not the place for you. But if you want the most amazing and helpful owners – the brothers were simply the best – the funkiest rooms, and some of the most amazing and stunning rooms, this is the hotel for you. I loved this hotel and can’t wait to try another room now that I’ve stayed in what I believe is affectionately called “the boat”.

If you want something that isn’t quite as funky as Henry’s House, but is still a total charmer, I would highly recommend the Algila Ortigia Charme Hotel. This is true stunner of a hotel in Ortigia and there is something about this hotel that reminds me of Alacati and the hotels and the town combined.

Bites

There are currently only two slow food movement restaurants in Siracusa (and arguably a third, but more on that in a moment). And as a fan of the slow food movement and what it is that they promote and are trying to do with their food, I am so very pleased to say that neither disappointed.

The Taberna Sveva (no website) is not far from Henry’s House and is absolutely divine! Even in late October, Siracusa is still warm so al fresco dining is possible, and encouraged, and I was fortunate enough to sit outside, gaze upon the up lit buildings and enjoy the most amazing gnocchi with pistachio cream sauce I have ever had. And as someone who really doesn’t enjoy gnocchi (I find it a tad too heavy), and on a warm night even less enjoyable, Teberna Sveva changed my mind! And kudos to the staff for, when I saw that they only had wine by the bottle and I wanted to have a glass with my dinner, they opened a bottle and gave me a glass. Thank you Taberna Sveva.

The other slow food restaurant in Siracusa that I loved and cannot stop thinking about is La Gazza Ladra (http://www.gazzaladrasiracusa.com/).  Situated right in the heart of Ortigia, on the primary shopping street, this little restaurant (of 30 or so seats?) is an absolute oasis. The restaurant is adorned with kitschy photos and paintings and you won’t sit down to china and crystal stemware.   But you will sit down to amazing food, much like nonna would make, that is simple, classic, and truly mouthwatering.

The third restaurant that I tried, which should arguably be a slow food restaurant was Osteria del Vecchio Ponte (no website). I honestly don’t remember how I found this restaurant, and the guys at Henry’s House had no idea about this restaurant, but it’s a short walk over the bridge from Ortigia and located on a small side street. When I arrived for my reservation, there was only one other table occupied which made me nervous. And then when I looked at the menu and everything was fish, I was more nervous. But then the owner (and chef) came over, I asked if it was a problem that I was vegetarian and he said no. But, better yet, as we were figuring out what to make, his daughter (I think), came over said she didn’t like to eat too much meat and suggested one of the pastas just without the pancetta. And it was absolutely divine: pasta, with tomatoes, zucchini, onion, garlic, and hidden beneath the pasta, the softest, most delicious soft cheese that when combined created the most amazing cream sauce I have ever had. (Yes, my mouth is watering!)

And before I forget… after dinner, as you take that lovely stroll, whether it be to your hotel or just to take in this lovely city, be sure to stop at Bel Bon.  It’s a chain of gelaterie around the city but they are amazing.  And if you can’t make up your mind, go with riccotta gelato.  I salivate just thinking about it!

Sites

For me, the primary thing to do in Siracusa is to walk. To just stroll, people watch, and take numerous photos. But I must admit that a trip to the Parco Archeologico della Neapolis really should be on everyone’s list. When I first went to Siracusa, the park wasn’t opened so I walked the perimeter and just peered through the fences. This time, it was open and although some parts were still closed, and others not clearly marked so that I got yelled at for being somewhere that I shouldn’t have been, it was truly such an amazing experience. And yes, you must see the Ear of Dionysius (and hear everyone trying to sing and experience the echoes) but the rest of the park is just stunning and enchanting and literally takes you back to years gone by and a completely different civilization.

 

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