Sanremo, on the Ligurian coast: an era of days gone by

Sanremo is an interesting town along the Ligurian coast that I had always wanted to visit. For a short visit, it’s a lovely place. For anything longer than 4 days, I would tell you to visit other places with more to do, and more to see. In a perfect world, and if you are the daring type, I’d tell you to rent a car and spend a couple of weeks just driving along the Ligurian coast and stopping along the way; it really is that stunning!

Nites

There are handful of 4-star hotels in Sanremo but none have direct beach access. (Until 10 years ago, the train tracks were between the beach and the hotels but with the relocation of the trains in the mountains, there is now a wonderful bike and pedestrian track between the hotels and the beach.) I chose the Hotel de Paris Sanremo (www.hoteldeparissanremo.it) and loved it. As I always recommend, it is best to write to the hotel directly – rather than through hotel aggregator sites – and describe what you want and see what they offer. Case in point: although I couldn’t afford the direct sea view rooms, I was offered a room with a partial view. When I arrived, I was given a room with no sea view, I showed my reservation, and voila, I was given a room with a partial sea view that made me happy every day! The hotel is very old school with modern touches like the TVs and the bathrooms. And for that added little start to the day, the breakfast buffet was actually quite a lovely start to the day.

Hotel de ParisHotel de Paris view with sun 02

Bites

For pizza, one of the staff at the Hotel de Paris recommended Pizzeria Spaccanapoli (wwwpizzeriaspaccanapoli.it) which was phenomenal. You won’t find anything other than pizza here, but the numbers that they offer are staggering!

Another find that a staff member at the Hotel de Paris suggested was Osteria Camelot (osteriacamelot.it) which is in the old town, but not hiking up to the Pigna and the gardens. The food is simple and the décor equally as simple but I really liked the food here. There is a house wine that, I have to tell you, is nothing more than bottled wine from Coop, a chain supermarket in Italy. They do have wine by the bottle, and a wine list as well, so if you can afford it, I would recommend that you ask for the wine list. But don’t let the supermarket wine as the house wine stop you from going here.

But if you only have one night in Sanremo, you absolutely must go to Taverna al 29 (www.tavernaal29.com). This a small restaurant, that is closed on Sundays and Wednesdays, and is a bit of show (more on that soon), but the food was absolutely divine, the bread incredible, the wine list small but spectacular, and the house-made “grappa” a sweet touch. The owner of the restaurant is very sweet and I heard him speak Italian, French, German, and of course Italian. He is the showman and likes to toast with his guests when they first sit down and are offered a house-made “spritz” of prosecco and lavender syrup. (I saw him sip from the same glass for the first part of the night but, I suppose, if he was drinking along with everyone, he would be drunk by the end of the evening!) I would definitely go out of my way to return to Taverna al 29!

Sites

There really aren’t many sites that you need to seek and find: most people come to Sanremo for the sea. The number of “beach clubs” along the coast is truly staggering! They pretty much all offer the same thing: a combination of entrance fee, beach bed, umbrella, and maybe a chair. Why there is a difference in price, I can’t really say so just find the “beach club” that speaks to you and go with it. And whatever you do, be sure to watch for signs that say “no picnic”; they won’t tolerate you bring water or even fruit on to their beach because they want you to buy their food. I found Euro Nettuno Beach and for only 10.50 euro, I had entrance and a beach bed and no hassle for bringing my own water. (14.00 euro if you want to add an umbrella.)

Walking up and through the Pigna is a wonderful trip and the views from the top are amazing. But what I enjoyed most about this endeavor was the opportunity to see how people live, and the walk that they do on a daily basis (regardless of where they have parked their car in the periphery).

la pigna street down 03

As mentioned above, the former train tracks along the coast have now been transformed to a bike and pedestrian path and had I had more time, I may have actually taken a ride along the coast. The Hotel de Paris offers bike rentals and right across from the hotel is a little outfit that also offers bike rentals by the hour or half day. If you’re feeling athletic, or you need to justify that extra gelato the day before, this is the activity for you.

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Bern Switzerland – the capital of an amazing country that acts more like a welcoming village

I must admit that I have never visited Bern before, nor even thought about it.  I guess the largesse that is Zurich and Lausanne just overshadows what is truly an amazing town.  But if your travels give you the chance – whether from traveling around Switzerland or taking a side-trip from Northern Italy – you really should add this to your itinerary.  It will only require a few days, but I promise it will be a few days well-spent.

Nites

Although only my first trip to Bern, I would say that there are definite gaps between hotel ratings in this small yet charming city.  There are 2 five star hotels and if money is no object, I would tell you to stay at the Hotel Bellevue.  I didn’t stay here, so I can’t vouch for the rooms, but I did have drinks here and the décor is amazing and I probably wouldn’t want to leave.

The four star hotels are a step down from the five and I’m not just stating the obvious: the four stars tend to be a bit more rustic and “stereotypical” of what I would expect from a swiss hotel.  I stayed at the Belle Epoque (http://www.belle-epoque.ch/hotel-bern/en/) and although not cheap – nothing is in Bern, or Switzerland for that matter – I really liked it.  The rooms were big and the staff really quite kind.  The one thing I noticed, which you should be aware of if traveling in the summer, is that the hotel does not have air conditioning.  I don’t like AC myself, but the large fan in the room and the windows facing outward could make for a noisy night.  So, beware: if it’s hot, there’s no AC and if you go, ask for a room NOT facing the street.

Bites

As I said above, nothing in Bern is cheap but I certainly did enjoy the hospitality of my friends and can recommend a few places for a wonderful meal.

I loved Verdi (http://www.bindella.ch/gastronomie/ueberblick-ristoranti/restaurant/verdi-ristorante/26/show/) and although not Italian pasta like you get in Italy, it really was lovely.  What helps, without a doubt, is the décor which is charming, funky, and just incredibly inviting.  If you have only one night in Bern, this is where I would go.

If you are searching for something a bit more affordable, Restaurant Zunft zu Webern (http://www.restwebern.ch/).  The staff were incredibly kind and given that I was hankeringfor spaetzle, and the hotel kindly called and asked them to make it for me, how can you go wrong?  The restaurant didn’t really offer much in terms of décor, but it was packed with locals – I heard no English – so it had to have been good.

I was also fortunate enough to be taken to Jack’s Brasserie in the Hotel Schweizerhof (http://www.schweizerhof-bern.ch/).  The food was good and when served by waiters in white coats, how can you go wrong?  And for a Sunday brunch, I thought it was a perfect setting.

I didn’t eat here – but I hear it is amazing – but I did come here for a drink on my last night in Bern: the Kornhaus keller (http://www.bindella.ch/gastronomie/ueberblick-ristoranti/restaurant/kornhauskeller/4/show/).  This is just a stunning place and even if you don’t want a drink, or to have dinner, just pop in and take a look, or a picture, and it will be permanently etched in your memory.  What a stunning place!

Kornhaus kellerSites

I’m not typically one for guided tours but my friends arranged for a tour of the city through the Tourism Office.  It was a cold and rainy/snowy day, as it often is in Bern, and so, on a whim, my guide asked if I wanted to go in to the clock tower.  Yes, I enthusiastically replied.  Although large groups can’t go in, and those afraid of heights and small places might want to reconsider, I loved it and it was definitely a highlight of my tour.  So, if you have the chance, go up the clock tower.  You won’t regret it.

clock tower view down the street

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Cortona Italy – Cortona and the villa near it are truly one of the most amazing finds I have ever made.

The name “Cortona” brings a smile to my face every time I hear it.  And if anyone ever asks for a special place to visit, a place to unwind, or just a place to spend a night on their way to any other place  in Italy, I readily tell them to go here.  This is part of the Italy that I fell in love with and dream of nightly.  This is the Italy that everyone should truly visit at least once in their lives because it is not Rome, it is not Florence, and it is not Milano.  It is, quite simply, Cortona.   And this is the place where I first learned what a linden tree is, and how a scent can take me back to a special place instantly.

Nites

There really is only one place to stay: the Villa di Piazzano (http://www.villadipiazzano.com/en/).  Located close to Pergo and part of Cortona, this villa is a dream location.  The owners and staff our truly unmatched, the rooms fantastic, and the surrounding area and pool just phenomenal.  Really, look nowhere else!

Bites

One of the best meals I ever had was at the Villa di Piazzano: I arrived late, was too tired to drive up to Pergo and just wanted a small meal.  Kindly, the owners of the hotel  told me to take a seat outside – even though they were having a private dinner party with friends – and in a few minutes, a lovely plate of cheese, bread, pears, honey and white wine was before me.   To this day, I don’t think there is anything better to eat for dinner!

If pizza is what you seek, I highly recommend Birrificio Cortonese (http://www.birrificiocortonese.com/).  Located in Cortona and surrounded by shops, this was an unpretentious, but delicious find and my mouth drools just thinking about it now.  (And I think there is a gelato shop almost next door that is  ridiculous!)

Sites

I first went to Cortona to mountain bike and although there aren’t specific mountain biking trails, the fire roads leading through the countryside and around are fairly easy to navigate and worth renting bikes and exploring.  (And I have no sense of direction so if I can d it, you can do it.)  The same fire roads are the perfect place to go for a  stroll or a jog.

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Athens Greece – Athens is probably one of the top 10 places that everyone should visit once in their life.

I absolutely adore Athens and this city has fond memories despite the economic changes, and the troubles that the Greeks are experiencing.   I’ve heard people say that Athens – and Greece in general – is not safe.  I say you are wrong!  Never have I met a more welcoming and kind country and its people than I have in Athens and Greece as a whole.

Nites

When traveling to Athens, there are 2 hotels that I can highly recommend.  The first is the St George (http://www.sglycabettus.gr/default-en.html) on the Lycabettus hill.  The hotel is situated in a lovely residential area and only a short stroll downhill to everything that one must see while in Athens.  And best of all: the evening views from the rooftop to the Acropolis are breathtaking and magical.

view to the Acropolis from the New Museum 02The other hotel that I absolutely adore is the Ochre and Brown, now called O&B, (http://www.oandbhotel.com/) which is located in an up-and-coming part of Athens. Centrally located, although without the views that many hotels rely on, the rooms are outstanding, the staff incredible, and the shops and sites right outside your door are unparalleled.

Bites

(coming soon)

Sites

I was fortunate enough to visit Athens right after the Acropolis Museum (http://www.theacropolismuseum.gr/en) first opened.  And now it is the place that I immediately return to every time I am in Athens.  When approaching the entrance, you will walk on plexiglass that reveals ruins beneath your feet that are absolutely stunning and amazing.  The exhibit, itself, will leave your breathless but it is the outdoor patio you that you must be sure to visit before leaving: the views are incredible, from 360 degrees, and the architecture absolutely stunning.

ruins UNDER the New MuseumAnd although I know everyone comes to Athens to visit the Acropolis – which you must do, no matter how tired you are – the meandering streets up the hill are a site to behold as well.  Yes, you will be pestered to shop here, eat here, and drink here, but if you just ignore the harassment and take in the sites and daily life, it really is unlike anything else that you will ever see.  Literally, I could spend hours walking these streets and taking everything in.

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Porto Cervo – If money is no object, this is the place for you. But you should still go, if even on a budget!

I loved Porto Cervo.  The wealth and presumably complete disregard for the cost of anything is amazing and a true site to behold.   Would I live here?   Perhaps if I could afford it but there are also other places in Sardegna that I would probably choose first.  But, that said, you must go.  It really is a stunning and enchanting place that everyone should visit at least once in their lives.

Nites

If you aren’t staying on a yacht, there are plenty of hotels in and around Porto Cervo.  Le Ginestre Hotel (http://www.leginestrehotel.com/) is a lovely hotel laid out in various buildings within what I think is a gorgeous pine grove.   The rooms are fantastic, and all come with a balcony or patio and, if possible, request a patio: there is nothing like being able to walk outside and relax with nature.

Bites

(coming soon)

Sites

There really isn’t a lot to do in the Costa Smeralda unless you have a boat (really a yacht!).  But if relaxation and people watching are your cup of tea, this is the place for you.  And I must admit, I had a brilliant time people watching!  Nestled against the port for million dollar yachts to doc is a recently built mall.  But this is no ordinary mall and you won’t find a Gap or even a Macy’s-type store.  No, this is where all the high-end designers and jewelers congregate because, who doesn’t need another pair of heals or trousers for their next port of call?!

If catching rays in what you hope to do here, the Le Ginestre Hotel has a great pool, as do all hotels in the Costa Smeralda, but what I loved is that, after a 15 minute stroll through the “forest,” the hotel has their own private beach.   Few people wanted to walk “this far” so the beach was quiet, relaxing, and the perfect place to read and nap.

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Oxford UK – The tranquility that is Oxford

(updated 12 October 2018)

I love Oxford and although I work for a company based there, don’t let that fool you: the town is amazing, the people really quite kind, and the variety of restaurants truly outstanding.  And like Cambridge, it is a wonderful respite from London yet easily reached via public transport.

Nites

One of my top 5 hotels in the world to stay at has got to be the Feathers Hotel (http://www.feathers.co.uk/) just outside of Oxford in Woodstock.  It doesn’t look like much from the outside, but once inside, you honestly won’t want to leave.   Not  only are you greeted by the calming smell of a fireplace, but the old homey wood paneling is breathtakingly stunning.

If you want to stay in “downtown” Oxford, there are a number of options, my favourite being The Old Bank Hotel (http://www.oldbank-hotel.co.uk/).   I love the boutique feel of this hotel and the rooms are outstanding!

Another cool and chic find is the Mailmaison Oxford (http://www.malmaison.com/locations/oxford/?gclid=CPGmzaP-5rsCFVLxOgodcRsAeA).  I’ve yet to actually stay here, but friends have, and they say that reuse of the old jail cells in to rooms is really quite stunning.   There is a modern wing but if you’re going to stay here, splurge for the jail cell rooms!  (And the restauran and outside bar are amazing and worth the trip alone!)

My favourite old school boutique hotel is the Old Parsonage Hotel (http://www.oldparsonage-hotel.co.uk/).  There is just something that says  home at this tony hotel.  I’ve actually been tempted not to leave and rather stay in and read, write, eat, and drink.

A new hotel that I am literally salivating over and obsessed with is the Vanbrugh House Hotel (http://www.vanbrughhousehotel.co.uk/) in the heart of Oxford just off the main shopping street. The hotel is to be complimented on their photographer alone because their website has me hooked.  And the interior design is tranquil and calm and the staff the epitome of hotel hospitality.  This hotel is the reason I prefer small boutique hotels rather than larger corporate locations.

Bites

I may have truly fallen in love with a pub that actually is vegetarian only: The Gardner’s Arms (http://www.thegarden-oxford.co.uk/). The pub has a full bar which is fantastic and the fact that they offer veggie burgers, veggie dogs with veggie chili, and other wonderful treats made this an easy decision on 3 occasions when I was last in Oxford. It’s comfort food, at its best!

The Standard (http://www.standardoxford.com/) on Walton Street, not far from Oxford University Press was absolutely amazing! As a vegetarian, I seek out palak paneer and I must say, this restaurant had the best palak paneer ever. The “sauce” was perfect and not too greasy, the paneer cut in to perfectly sized pieces, and the spices sheer perfection. Truly, I would fly back to Oxford right now just to eat here again!

Outside of Oxford, in Headington (a short trip on the bus or a taxi), is the The Black Boy (http://www.theblackboy.uk.com/) which I went to years ago, loved, and can’t believe that I forgot about until now!   I love this restaurant and pub: the pub part is great for a pint with friends but then, you pass the bar and there is lovely dining area that is chic, delicious, and not anything remotely like a pub. And the food? Outstanding and definitely memorable! Head the the Black Boy as soon as you can!

Sites

(coming soon)

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Cambridge UK – The perfect escape from the insanity that is London

I love Cambridge and could easily spend days here just wondering and taking in all of the scenery. I also love Cambridge because it is the perfect escape from the insanity that I feel and find when in London.

Nites

When you go to Cambridge, and you need one of the best hotels I have ever stayed out, you must stay at Hotel Felix (http://www.hotelfelix.co.uk/).  The rooms are amazing, whatever “level” of room you choose, and given that it is within easy commute to all things that you want to see and do, choose nothing else.

Bites

(coming soon)

Sites

(coming soon)

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Bergamo Italy – A tranquility and joy of life that we should all aspire to

To say that I am enamored with Bergamo is an understatement.  There is tranquility, a vibrancy, a friendliness, and a peacefulness in this hilltop town that no one word can adequately describe.  Because a university is situated in the upper city – the città alta – the streets in the afternoon are often filled with joyful laughter and a love of life that is, quite simply, infectious.  But then, when school is out and the city returns to its familial center, the streets are a calm respite from the more cacophonous città bassa below that welcomes you to stroll, and meander and most importantly relax.  And don’t forget: if you don’t want to get too relaxed, Milano is only a 50 minute train ride away!

street down from San VigilioNites

A new edition to the Design Hotel group of hotels is the Gombithotel (http://www.gombithotel.it/en/) located just in the center of the città alta.  This lovely little hotel, that has a passion for all thing Vespa, only has 13 rooms which further adds to the tranquility of this city.  Although the windows aren’t the most sound-proofed windows I’ve ever had in a hotel room, the city is quiet enough – except for the tolling of the bells every hour – that I didn’t have a problem getting a restful night’s sleep every night I was there.

Gombithotel sitting areaIf a design hotel with a love of all things Vespa isn’t your style, I had a drink in the Relais San Lorenzo (http://www.relaisanlorenzo.com/) a member of the Small Luxury Hotel group and it looked gorgeous.  Whereas that Gombithotel is kind of funky and cool, the Relais is a more laid back, classic type of business hotel that some might prefer.  Either way, you can’t go wrong with great accommodations in Bergamo.

Bites

For such a small town, the number of options for dining is truly outstanding.

For a quick bite – whether that be a panino, a slice of pizza, or just a dolce – Il Fornaio on via Colleoni 3 was a dream come true for a hungry tummy.  Further down the “street” is another place that, around noon, will be slammed with hungry students.  I never got in the door, that’s how crowded it was, so I suspect their lunchtime options are just as good.

But it was the dinner I was after and I can recommend with overwhelming enthusiasm the follow three establishments.

Vineria Cozzi (www.vineriacozzi.it) was an absolute gem with the most lovely staff.  Decorated in what can best be described as “cottage-like” the pasta was superb and the recommendation of the truffled cheese and egg “soup” leaves my mouth watering as I write.

A second suggestion, and probably one of the most famous restaurants in the città alta is Da Mimmo (www.ristorantemimmo.com), also on Via B Colleoni.  Situated on 2 levels, with tables covered in white linen, the restaurant can have the appearance of being overly pretentious but don’t be fooled.  This is the home of the first pizzeria in città alta and has its own dedicated menu of pizzas so how pretentious can it be right?  Not at all!  The staff are outstanding and when the waitress suggested that I should try the house-made mozzarella, I nearly fell out of my chair.  (And, yes, once again I am salivating as I write!).   And that little welcome drink of prosecco goes miles in my book.

And if you are looking for something a little off the beaten path – but don’t worry, you won’t get lost – I enthusiastically endorse La Colombine (www.trattorialacolombina.it).  Upon being seated and after gazing out the huge plate-glass window down to the citta bassa – there’s an outdoor balcony that I can only imagine must be breathtaking in warmer weather! – the waitress asked if I wanted a menu in English or Italian.  Since we have only been speaking Italian I jokingly said, “Italian, of course” to which she replied that, because the restaurant specializes in traditional and typical Bergamo cuisine “Italians don’t always understand the menu.”   Love it!  And yes, the food was outstanding: I’m not a fan of gnocchi but the gnocchi with taleggio sauce was light, airy, and may possibly have made me a convert to the world of gnocchi!

Sites

Bergamo doesn’t exactly have the sort of sites that a Rome, an Athens, or an iStanbul has but the one thing that you must do is you must take the funicular up the mountain to San Vigilio.  The ruins of the castle are interesting but honestly won’t blow you away.  What will take your breath away, however, is the walk down.  Your inner billy goat may come out but it is worth the walk.

Santa Maria MaggioreAnd with that, I hope that you will plan that trip to Bergamo, if even for just a long weekend.  There is truly something medieval about this quiet, yet vibrant little town that has, overnight, endeared itself to me as a place I already want to return to.

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Vienna Austria – The sounds of kindness and warm-heartedness abound

I love Vienna.  (Yes, insert the Ultravox classic, if you must!)  The city is clean, the people are kind and helpful, the public transport is nearly perfect (the CAT train doesn’t quite run early enough for those early am flights out of Vienna), and the food really coming in to its own.  If you haven’t been, you must go.  And if you’ve been, please return: it is nearly Europe’s most perfect city!

Nights

A couple of years ago, the Hotel Daniel (http://www.hoteldaniel.com/en/vienna.html) took over an old office building and converted it in to a cool, funky urban retreat right next to the Beveldere gardens.  This isn’t your Turkish rug covered, “we have Frette sheets,” nor even “breakfast included” sort of place, but rather, a modern, industrial, and funky retreat that is also comfortable.  And if you can swing the hammock room, do it: it has a hammock in the room!

If old-world Vienna is more your style and money no object, I would stay at the Steigenberger Hotel Herrenhof (http://www.steigenberger.com/en/Wien?source=USSH0) as you can’t beat the location and the rooms are divine.  And the fact that Café Central is just around the corner, not to mention Café Demel, you truly can’t go wrong!

And if you are looking for something a bit more traditional, yet not in the same price range as the Steigenberger, check out the Hotel Alstadt Vienna (http://www.altstadt.at/en/) a tried and true hotel in the city.   The rooms are comfortable, if not over the top, and the staffs are fantastic and very helpful.

And although I haven’t stayed here, a friend suggested the Levante Laudon (http://www.thelevante.com/laudon/de/superior.html) which looks fantastic and a great place to make your home away from home.

Bites

Tian restaurant (http://www.tian-vienna.com/en) is one of the best restaurants I have ever had the pleasure of dining in, in my entire life.  And the fact that it is vegetarian is gives it double points!   Vegetarian or not, you must go once in your life.  In my opinion, this restaurant deserves at least 1 Michelin Star!  The wait staff are outstanding – and everything dressed in shades of lavender add to the experience – the small but inviting room outstanding, and the food absolutely divine.   It won’t be the cheapest meal you’ll have in Vienna – that’s for the street-corner stands which shouldn’t be avoided either – but it will be one of the best meals you will have.  (Note: a wine bar is planned to open downstairs of Tian and if looks alone are enough to judge, this will be a smashing success!)

Another fantastic vegetarian restaurant, only a short ride on the u-bah is Hollered (http://www.hollerei.at/).   Hollered is in something of a residential neighborhood but when I went, it was filled with locals, and packed, and the food just sublime!   This restaurant is a bit more rustic and casual but makes the food no less delectable.

Near St Stephen’s cathedral, but not so near as to be a tourist haven, if Fabio’s (http://fabios.at/de/fabios-restaurant-bar-wien.html).   As anyone who follows this blog, they know that I can’t go a few days without pasta and this restaurant met my needs to the umpteenth degree!   The burrata was a special, not listed on the menu and the pasta pure perfection: the portions weren’t too large, it was perfectly al dente, and the arrabiata just spicy enough!   And if you want an after-dinner drink: the small bar scene was hoppin’!

Another restaurant in the city center that I adore is the Restaurant Ofenloch (http://www.restaurant-ofenloch.at/en/).  I went here with friends and had fantastic Austrian wines, brilliant food, and a non-rushed service which was perfect for catching up and just enjoying the meal.

For a bit of classic Vienna, I would suggest Pfarrwirt (http://www.pfarrwirt.com/).  You can easily take public transport out  of the city center to this wonderful old house with great, classic Austrian dishes.

And a trip to Vienna wouldn’t be complete without some sweets.  There is the classic Sachertorte at the Hotel Sacher but for me, a trip to Vienna isn’t complete without a trip to Café Central (see above) or Café Demel (http://www.demel.at/en/index_en_flash.htm).  Is there anything better than coffee and sweets under chandeliers served by men and women in starched coats?

Sites

Every guidebook will tell you about the major sites to see so I won’t repeat them.  But I will tell you that stroll through the Belvedere gardens should not be missed!  And if you wallet permits, a night at the opera is not to be missed.  The Stadthopper may be a bit smaller than some of the other classic opera houses in the world, but that doesn’t mean the performance is any the less.  And if you can follow the opera by a bit of Sachertorte and a drink, you have then experienced my perfect Vienna evening!

And with that, I hope you enjoy your trip to Vienna.   It really is an amazing city and one that should not be missed, but rather enjoyed often!  Safe travels!

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Yalikavak Turkey – It’s not Bodrum, but a better neighbor

(updated 07 September 2015)

If you are over the age of 25, Bodrum isn’t the place for you.  And by a happy misunderstanding, I happened upon Yalikavak, approximately 18 km over the hill and around the bend, for a relaxing and amazing holiday experience.

Nights

Okay, so I’m going to start off with my complaint, and that’s pretty much because I just looked at their website again (so that I can provide it to you) and remembered what my issue was.  The 4Reasons Hotel (http://www.4reasonshotel.com/) states on their website “a hip, small, luxury boutique hotel in Bodrum.”   Traveler beware: they are NOT in Bodrum.   They are in Yalikavak and it will take you about 40 minutes to arrive, and cost you 110 TL to get there and back if you don’t have a car.  So be forewarned.  But truly, if this is the only flaw that I can note – and it is! – then this is where you want to stay!

The above said, however, I loved this hotel!  The staff were amazing, the rooms lovely, and depending on what room type you choose – I had the Passionate, even though I was traveling alone, simply because I wanted a large room with a view to the sea – it can be the perfect vacation location.  Within 45 minutes you can walk down to the beach and rent the requisite sun bed and umbrella but, really, why?  The pool is amazing and peaceful!  And since the previous writing in 2014, the rooms have been updated with larger beds and a lovely banquet along the right-hand wall that is far more functional than the 2 wicker chairs that used to be in the room.

4Reasons Passionate Roomview to port from Four ReasonsP.S. If an all-inclusive place to stay is  what you want, there are a number lining the road to Bodrum.  I can’t vouch for any of these, but here are some options that you can investigate further: Club Blue Dreams, Rixos (looks like Vegas!), Golden Savoy (another that looks like Vegas!) and Kervanesse (I think that is the spelling).

Bites

If you’ve read any of my other blog posts, you will know that I prefer not to eat at hotel restaurants.  As luck would have it, my first night in Yalikavak, I didn’t have a reservation so I stayed at the hotel and ate at their restaurant.   What a joy!  The views to the sea were stunning, the soft jazz a perfect accompaniment, and the food truly outstanding!   By the time I arrived here, I had already started to go through pasta withdraw so how happy was I to see their version of pasta with 4 cheese sauce?  The pasta was cooked perfectly, and the different cheeses than what I was used to was a happy experience.

But don’t stay here every night (although you could).  Walk down to Yalikavak and you will find the “boardwalk” lined with all variety of restaurants.

Although I didn’t eat here, I met two fellow travelers who ate at Sofi’s and they said it was outstanding.  Apparently, there was a “show” of belly dancers and whatnot, which I wouldn’t have enjoyed, but if that’s your thing, I trust their judgment.

I opted to go to Elma Restaurant a lovely small restaurant on the water where I was shown the kitchen and some of the dishes that the chef could make for this vegetarian.  When last in Yalikavak, Elma had closed but I am pleased to see that it has reopened, perhaps in a new location, so stay tuned.

1 new find, which I think is also new to the Yalikavak dining scene is Giggles (https://www.facebook.com/pages/Giggles/239981516202222) which was an absolute dream recommendation from the Four Reasons. The night of our reservation, there was some confusion about a rental car we arranged and, as we passed by, the staff asked if I was Mr Panner, I said I was, and he said that Ali from the Four Reasons (Ali is the best!) was coming to meet us, and that Giggles would hold our table until we were finished! 1 hour late, we returned and the mezze were phenomenal and the pasta and fish outstanding. And the staff?! They were so nice and attentive that, on subsequent nights when just passing the restaurant, they would wave and smile. Love it!

And very new to the restaurant scene in Yalikavak is Ege Restaurant (https://www.facebook.com/Egerestaurantbar) as it has only been open for a couple of months. Once again, Ali from the Four Reasons recommneded this (in place of another reservation we had) and it was incredible.   I tell you, make this the first restaurant you run to when you arrive in Yalikavak! Situated on the water front, with lovely views out to the sea, are reason enough to run to this restaurant.   But then the mezze selection is simply over-the-top incredible! My friend had the catch of the day and couldn’t stop raving about how tasty it was and utterly perfect.   And for this vegetarian… I was a very happy boy; they didn’t have anything on the menu for a vegetarian (other than more mezze) so the owner, Esat – an incredibily lovely and helpful man – said “leave it with me” and I did.   And up comes a lovely tomato and cucumber salad and although not much, I would have been fine with that. But then comes the most incredible pizza/flat bread type things that I have ever seen, nor eaten. I can’t really describe them, but I can tell you that I am drooling about them right now.   And still smiling!   Love. This. Restaurant.

view from Ege Restaurant 02 Ege Restaurant mezzeSights

I can’t comment on Bodrum and couldn’t even fathom to venture over there – crowds aren’t my thing I’m afraid – so I’ll leave it to you to venture out and explore.

The one thing that you must do is take a bus tour to Pamukkale.  Your hotel may try and arrange a private car service but, to be honest, it’s a long haul and you see a lot of villages  and nothing else, so why not take the cheaper route and do a bus tour?  Traveler be warned however: it takes about 4.5 hours to get to Pamukkale from Bodrum, and they stop along the way for a “break,” a carpet tour, and “lunch,” but as long as you know what you are getting in to, it’s worth it.

Since I’ve been to Pamukkale before, and absolutely loved it, and recommend that everyone go at least once in their lives, I now have more insight! On my second return, I opted for the rental car option with a GPS. You can do an organized tour as described above but I honestly thought the car option was better. But be warned: GPS in Turkey is not the best and we were often concerned that we were lost and it took a bit longer to drive than the tour bus did, but it was worth it. My recommendation: pay attention to how you arrive at your hotel – if I hadn’t, I may still be driving around! – print maps from home that you understand, and be prepared for an adventure!

Pamukkale terrace 03

Pamukkale and the ruins around it are absolutely stunning and even though it may be 105F/43C, the sheer beauty and natural wonder of the place will make it all worthwhile!  And for about $15, you can wade in an ancient pool that is supposed to cure some of our ailments.  (I didn’t do it because it looked overpriced and not worth the crowd!)

Hierapolis amphitheatre inside 02So Yalikavak isn’t in Bodrum.   And  so it may be a “suburb” albeit a hike away.   Don’t hold it against them and go here for further recharging.   And if you need a bit of culture, do the trip to Pamukkale: it’s worth your time and a numb butt!

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Fethiye Turkey – The perfect place to relax and unwind

I can’t really put my finger on what it was about Fethiye that I loved.  It may have been the peaceful, small-town vibe, or the lovely people, I really don’t know, but I want to return and wish that I had spent more than 3 days here.

Nights

I am obsessed  with the Yacht Classic Hotel (http://www.yachtclassichotel.com/).  This hotel is located a tad outside  of the “city centre” but given that Fethiye is so small, it really doesn’t matter.  Many of the rooms have sea views but to enjoy  the full experience, you must reserve a room facing the seah.   Oh my god it is gorgeous!  Going to bed and waking up to the sea is like no other experience if you ask me.  And the breakfast is absolutely amazing (and there’s no need to pay the extra for an ommelette.)

Yacht Classic Hotel view to pool

Nest door to the Yacht Classic Hotel is the Ece Saray Marina and Resort Hotel (http://www.ecesaray.net/).  This is the most expensive hotel in the city (and if you look at their homepage, on the right, to the right of the pool, you will see the Yacht Classic Hotel).  I took a peak inside one evening and it is stunning so for all out luxury, this is the place for you.

Bites

The only thing that prevents me from returning immediately and staying longer is that the food options in Fethiye are pretty dim.  The Yacht Classic recommended the roof top restaurant at their sister hotel, the Yacht Boutique Hotel (on the other side of the Ece Saray!) and I should have listened!  The restaurants that I went to on my first 2 nights don’t bear mentioning: everything was just uninspired and no different from anything that I could make on my own.   And many of the restaurants are crowded together so it’s hot, and sticky, and just not enjoyable.

But the rooftop restaurant at the Yacht Boutique is divine!  The views were amazing – but I had the view every morning and night – so that’s not what made it exceptional but it was the food.  They had Turkish, Indian, and I think even a bit of Italian and it was all just absolutely to die for!  I should have gone here every evening!

I did hear that  the restaurant at the Yacht Classic Hotel was quite good but since I was staying here, I wanted to go someplace different.  When I return, I will definitely try it out and let you know!

Sights

There really isn’t much to see or do in Fethiye to be honest.   But if you need to unwind, relax, and recharge, this is the place for you.

The boardwalk, if you will, along the sea  is lit at night with lots  of neon and displays it really is a lovely way to end your evening with a stroll and a breeze.

Nearly everything you read will tell you that you need to go to the blue lagoon.  Don’t.   It really isn’t worth it and is just a tourist trap.  You’ll need  to take an overcrowded  dolmus to the beach, then pay to enter the park (10TL I think), and then 15TL to rent a sun bed and umbrella.  And although I am not one for crowds, this place took it to a whole new level: the sun beds were so close  together that I could literally reach out and touch the couple next to me, that’s how jammed the beds were!  So stay at your hotel and  avoid  the crowds.

blue lagoon 02

And there  you go.  Like I said, I can’t really explain what it was about Fethiye that I loved but I did and I cant wait to return!  I hope you enjoy it too!

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A college town with an attitude

[updated 07 October 2013]

I will probably get grief for saying that Montreal is a college town with an attitude, but it is.   And I loved it here!  The mix of English and French, combines with their desire to be independent, makes this just an amazing place to visit for a long weekend (if you live on the East Coast of the US) or even longer!

My trip to Montreal was really quite brief so watch this space for more comments soon.

Nites

I don’t normally do this, but given how awful my experience was, I felt that I should share with my readers:  do not stay at the Hyatt Regency Montreal.   Although the lobby is gorgeous, and the bar quite the happening seen – and the staff are outstanding – the rooms are tired and I would actually say gross.  The Hyatt brand should be ashamed, as should the owners of this hotel: I would describe this as a 1990s Holiday Inn-inspired hotel.   Trust me, it’s not worth the ridiculous price for the Hyatt name.

Although I have not stayed at either of these hotels, I have had numerous meetings and meals at both so, hopefully, they will live up to their names better than the above and should be worth a try: the Westin Montreal and the InterContinental which are across the street from each other.

Bites

If you want cool and funky, with out of this world food – from one of the top restaurants in the city – you must go to Hotel Herman (http://hotelherman.com/).  First things first: this is not an actual hotel so don’t be surprised when you rock up to a small restaurant with a bar in the middle and the kitchen in the back.  But boy is  it worth it!   The wine list is pretty good, although a little pricey, but the food is incredible: classic, yet inventive, and every bite delectable.  Run here if you can!

If you are in search of probably one of the best vegetarian restaurants that I have ever been to, look no further than ChuChai (http://www.chuchai.com/).  There is a restaurant one  side of some residential steps and a bistro on the other.  Apparently, they have the exact same food, you just pay for the look.  Either way, get thee here and order the crispy vegetarian duck.  Oh. My. Word. Seriously, I wanted to cancel my dinner the following night just so I could return here.  That’s how good the food is!   And yes, they have wine!

Another cool place, if you decide not to go to ChuChai every night, is Aux Vivres (www.auxvivres.com).  The food is a bit more college level – good, but not overly inventive, and a value for the money – and the restaurant appears to be in a converted chain restaurant of some kind.  But the staff were great and the food really was tasty, it’s just the sort of thing that I tend to make on my own.

Recently opened is Invitation V (http://www.invitationv.com/) a lovely vegan restaurant in the Jewish quarter of Montreal.  Although the menu is somewhat small, the options that they offer are out of this world.  And if repititious thoughts are any sign of how much I enjoyed this restaurant, I cannot get the house-made seitan satay with peanut sauce out of my head!

Sites

I haven’t had much of an opportunity to explore Montreal (some day) but I can say that, without a doubt, the old quarter down near the water is amazing.  If even just for a stroll, I suggest you go here just to relax and get a feel for one part of what, no doubt, Montreal has to offer.

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Sydney Australia – Beach town in a big city

I love Sydney.  Not everyone does, or will, but I suspect that the love/hate relationship will be the same as  it is for San Francisco: you either love it or you hate it.  But whatever you do, give it a chance!   If you’ve gone all that way, don’t just say “I don’t want to go to Sydney” but, rather, suck it up and experience a truly multi-cultural – and wonderful – city!

Nights

I’m afraid that hotel recommendations are pretty hard to come by.  This is,  in part, due to the fact that Sydney – and Australia in general – are really quite pricey.   My best advice, until I find a place that I can unequivocally recommend, is to search online for the best deal and use your best judgment.

On my last trip, I stayed at the Grace Hotel.   It was okay but I honestly wouldn’t recommend you stay here.  The staff are great, but the price for what you get, is not worth it.

Bites

For a special night out – date, friends, family, or just your own personal celebration – I highly recommend Pendolino (http://www.pendolino.com.au/).   This newly opened restaurant is in The Strand shopping arcade but don’t let this put you off.  The food is amazing, the wine outstanding,  and the decor really nice.   While i was here, there were people on dates, family outings, a few business meals and a couple of people eating on their own.  Come one, come all I say!

Another outstanding restaurant in the CBD is pony bar and restaurant (http://www.ponydining.com.au/)  in the rocks.  Oh my, this place is amazing!   It is small, so be sure to book a table, and if the weather is nice, ask to sit outside.  But if you are inside, fear not: the open kitchen and smell of wood-fired grill will calm you and entice your senses.  I would return right now if  I could!

If you are in search of a vegetarian restaurant, I can recommend two.   The first that I would recommend which, I bet, would be amazing in the summer is Bodhi (http://www.bodhi.id.au/).   I found the service a little rushed but the food was amazing.  They had a bit of mock-meat and other delights that could keep you coming back day after day.

But, rather than keep returning to the same restaurant, hop on the train to Newtown.  (Ask at your hotel, it’s easy to get there and cheap!)  Newtown has the requisite cool factor: tats, piercings, galleries, and bars everywhere.  And an amazing vegetarian restaurant called the Green Gourmet (http://www.greengourmet.com.au/).  Don’t be put off by the website or even the look of the place – both are a bit tired – because the food  is amazing!  There is also buffet that you can pay by the weight for, but just order a la carte.   The only downside: they have no alcohol or green tea so turn a blind eye, have a soda or some fancy tea, sit back, and relax.  Oh yeah: and the staff are wonderful and really helpful with advice and suggestions.   Love this place!

And lastly, if you are in Sydney for a convention (although the convention center is being rebuilt and thus closed until 2015 I think), Zaaffran (http://www.zaaffran.com/) in Darling Harbour is probably some of the best Indian food I’ve had in a long time.  I won’t  tell you the number of times I was here but I can tell you that, it is easy to get a table at lunch but for dinner, be sure to have a ressie or you will be waiting!   And yes, the views of Darling Harbour at night are incredible!

Sites

Beyond the standard recommendations that any tour book will provide, I would encourage you to make your way to as many beaches along the coast as you can.   If you have a friend, buy them petrol and dinner and ask them to drive you around.  You will see things and people that you won’t see in the CBD.

And when you are out and about, make your way to the Vaucluse House (http://www.vauclusehousetearooms.com.au/our-venues/vaucluse-house/home).  What a gorgeous little park with an amazing tea room that serves brunch and lunch.   Even in the winter, there was a wedding and reception taking place so don’t be surprised if you need to wait a bit.  It is worth it!

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The “red city” should be on everyone’s bucket list

I loved Marakkech.  Even though it is a different way of life, and not something familiar to an american, there was something about this city that got to me and makes me want to return.

Nites

There are quite a few places to stay in Marakkech and I’ve read that there are some amazing riads within the medina, I opted to stay outside of the city walls at a resort where I could tan, relax, and unwind.

The Es Saadi (http://www.essaadi.com/) is amazing.  If you go only once, you must stay here!  The grounds are amazing, the pool divine, and the breakfast in the morning absolutely outstanding and enough to get this traveler through the day!  The rooms are gorgeous and all come with a balcony that looks over the grounds or the pool.  Stunning!  And if there is one negative to be shared, it is simply that the wireless internet connection is rather weak.   But really, when on holiday, one should not criticize an internet connection because they cannot work

Sites

The souqs are amazing and you really must go!  I spent a day wandering around and getting lost.  And yes, you will be harassed by people trying to get you to buy things but as long as you know it will happen, you should be fine.  And if you are interested in something, negotiate!   Apparently, shop owners are actually offended if you don’t try to negotiate with them.

If you can believe it, there is a hop-on, hop-off bus in Marakkech.  I did it because, to be honest, I spent one day too long in Marakkech and had run out of things to do and see.  And if you can believe it, the hop-on, hop-off bus went everywhere I had walked on my own.  So don’t do it.  It really isn’t worth the money or your time.

There are quite a few ruins outside of the medina and all can easily be reached on foot.  And be sure to have your camera ready: there are lots  of things to see and photograph along the way, wherever you are going!

Oh yeah, and beware of the snake charmers in the square outside of the souqs.  They are quite aggressive if they reveal the snake – they want money for this show – and not only might you be surprised by the snakes and a bit shaken up, but their aggressiveness won’t help!

Bites

The restaurant at Es Saadi is divine and although I’m not a fan of hotel restaurants, this one was absolutely amazing and should not be missed.

Another restaurant that I found and loved is that at the Red House Riad (http://www.theredhouse-marrakech.com/).   When I first went, this was just a restaurant but in the last few years, it appears that they are a small hotel now as well.  It might be worth a stay because if it’s anything like the food, you won’t be disappointed!

Marrakech is divine and a place that should be on everyone’s bucket list.  Like much or Morocco, the people are nice, the food amazing, and the sites just absolutely breathtaking.

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Worth the adventure

Getting to Fez can be a challenge but, at the same time, an adventure like few others.  If you have the time and opportunity, I highly suggest taking the train from Tangier to Fez (or anywhere else in Morocco for that matter) as you will see life in all its honest reality.  But the blue city, like the red (Marakesh) and the white (Rabat) are places that really must be seen.

A word of advice: do not eat anything that cannot be peeled, that has not been cooked, and do not drinking anything that you don’t open yourself.  Moroccans will try and be helpful and open your water for you: if you can’t break that plastic seal, don’t take it.  Gastrointestinal sickness is not fun!

Nites

When arriving in Fez, you have 2 options in terms of where to stay.  You can stay outside the city walls where you are bound to have more of a modern hotel with all of the amenities or you can stay in the city center, the medina, in a riad which is the closest that you will get to actually living in the city.  I would opt for the latter.

The Dar Seffarine (http://www.darseffarine.com/) is an amazing riad with the most lovely hosts.  The rooms are gorgeous and big, and they come with AC and fans so that you can be in maximum comfort.  Be aware, however, that riads don’t offer the most privacy: my room “opened” on to the inner courtyard which I think most of the rooms did.  But who cares?!  You’re there to experience life in the medina and the breakfast each morning  is amazing!

Bites

After heading the warning above, you can pretty much eat anywhere you want. No restaurant stood out and what I would categorize as not to be missed but ask  for advice and I’m sure you won’t go wrong.

There is a market outside of the medina where you can get everything you need for your time in Fez.  And if you want to do a picnic either for dinner or while you are walking around, this is the place to go: it’s a taxi ride away but even that added to the cost of your groceries will be cheaper than what you are going to pay within the medina walls.

Sites

There is no tourist sites to be seen in Fez.  But walk.  Walk everywhere.  The medina has 4 different gates and once you get comfortable with the location of your hotel, and have your trust map, you can’t go wrong.   And if you don’t feel comfortable doing it on your own, your hotel or riad can set up a tour guide for you.  I did both and although the tour guide took me out of the medina to see some of the potters that Fez is known for, it’s also an effort to get you to spend money.  Personally, I loved walking everywhere and anywhere I wanted.

The souq is really quite lovely and easy to navigate, especially compared to that in Marakesh.  Be warned that everyone will try and get you to come in to their shop and nearly harass you to buy something but it is their livelihood so you can’t blame them.  Just stay positive, be polite, and if you don’t want to be harassed, don’t make eye-contact.

So if you can, go.  Fez is amazing and you can relatively easily arrive from anywhere in Spain.  It’s small, the people really are lovely, and the experience a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity!

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Gorgeous islands and lovely people for a wonderful experience

Stockholm is probably one of the last remaining places on my “must do” list and I finally made it.  And the city did not let me down!  What amazing architecture – and I mean well beyond the stereotypical “Scandinavian minimalism” that you see everywhere – and the people were sweet, kind and helpful.  As I always do, I just wandered and wandered some more to take in the city as much as I could.  And I will return: perhaps next time, in the winter – although my friend says the winds off  the water are brutal and will chill you to the bone – as I suspect that city has fewer tourists and there will be a gorgeous blue light on everything (when the light is actually up!)

Nites

I chose to stay that at the Hotel Skeppshomnen (http://www.hotelskeppsholmen.com/) on the small island of Skeppshomen and I honestly can’t recommend this hotel enough!  The island is really quite quiet with few cars, apparently no residential housing, and no bars or restaurants except that in the hotel.  Upon my arrival, I was told that I had been upgraded to a larger room which, when I arrived, was quite lovely.   But something was amiss: after much searching – jetlag sure does take a few brain cells away doesn’t it! – I realized that I had booked a sea-view room.

And this is where the hotel received a failing mark.  Not only did they fail to tell me that the upgraded room didn’t have a sea view, but when I went to ask, they told me that “something was wrong with the room,” that they had no more sea view rooms available, and could move me later.  Subsequently, I wrote to the manager and, voila, a sea view room became available.  But I didn’t take it and I recommend that you don’t take it either: the sea view rooms are more expensive (and the one I was shown, the size of a large closet) and, until the trees either lose their leaves or you stay in the winter, you can’t see the water.   And because the island is so quiet and peaceful, the rooms that look to the park (and the Modern Art Museum, by the way), are equally as calming.

But the staff were lovely and the breakfast in the morning a wonderful way to begin the day.  I like to believe that the hiccup upon my arrival was simply due to the wedding that was scheduled later in the week and that you’re experience upon checking in will be hassle free.  It’s worth a try!

If you want to be about a 15 minute walk closer to the city centre, I can also recommend the Lydmar Hotel (http://www.lydmar.com/), a lovely small hotel close to the National Museum that appears absolutely stunning and is probably worth a try.

The other hotel that I would probably recommend is the Grand Hotel (http://www.grandhotel.se/en), one of the old “grande dames” of the city.  The lobby, itself, is stunning and their signature restaurant “Mathias Dahlgren” (more on this below) is beyond belief.

Bites

Food in Stockholm is really quite lovely and definitely centered around meat and fish.  In the summer months, going in to early fall, I suspect vegetarians can do all right.  But in the winter and early spring – before the vegetables start to show – you will have either slim pickings OR you will have very expensive imported food.  Just be warned.

One of the best meals I have ever had – truly an event and one that actually took in to consideration my eating habits – was at Mathias Dahlgren (http://www.mathiasdahlgren.com/).  The dining room is the upscale version where everything from the food, to the wine, to service is meticulously planned and choreographed.  If you want a meal to remember, and are ready to pay dearly for it, you must go!

There is also a “food bar,” which is just a lower end version of the dining room mentioned above so if you aren’t ready to pay that kind of coin, check out the food bar.

If you are wandering around in the Gamla Stan – as we all should at least once – check out Marten Trotzig (http://martentrotzig.se/).   I went here with a friend and it was absolutely lovely: very small dining area (so reservations are key on weekends) with a larger private space downstairs and views on to the cobble streets.  I would describe the food as upscale traditional which is exactly what I was looking for and would definitely put this on every visitors list.

Further afield from the city center, but easily walkable and a lovely walk as long as it’s not raining, is Trattorian (http://trattorian.se/).   The owner is Italian and prides himself on good quality Italian food.   And if I do say so myself, the mozzarella was divine and the homemade pasta made and cooked to perfection.  I would have returned again had I had more nights in Stockholm.

Sites

There is much to see and do in Stockholm and 2 days really doesn’t do it justice.  I could have walked and explored for days!

If time is short – or even if you have lots of time – you must make it to the Vasa Museet!  This is a ship that sank upon leaving the port back in the 1600s and sat there for 333 years before being found and excavated.  Now fully preserved, yet up close and personal, the ship and all its amazing craftsmanship is a wonderful display and a fantastic example of what modern technology can do to preserve such a wonderful piece of history.  Arrive early however – they open at 10 – as the tour groups start filing in shortly thereafter and it does become a challenge to get close and see the various details.

Another thing that I would recommend you do is to go past Gamla Stan to the island of Sodermalm.  Once you cross the bridge and are the island, turn left on to Katarinavagan and walk up the gently sloping hill: you will see some of the most amazing views of the city and get a real feel for the real, working, Stockholm as opposed to all of the tourist haunts.  Continue to wander around and ultimately, seek out Gotgatan (street).  My friend said it’s like Chelsea or the East Village in New York and it definitely is a great place to stroll.  And if you are in need of an original piece of Stockholm to take home, check out Galleri Hantverket (http://www.gallerihantverket.se/), a shop of artists with their designs that I just loved.

So there you: Stockholm in a couple of days.  I am certain that I will return and, if the Swedes ever decide to join the euro zone and prices drop, I’ll be back more time and much sooner.  But don’t let the prices scare you: we only live once and Stockholm is definitely a place that should be on everyone’s list!  Enjoy and I hope you love it as much as I did!

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Costa Rei has the charm that Villasmius doesn’t because it’s small and quaint

Most people come to Sardegna for the beaches.  I did!  And if you fly in to Cagliari, the best beaches to the east are Villasimius and on up the coast.  I chose not to go to Villasimius for 1 reason and then another became apparent on my way to Costa Rei; it is bumper to bumper cars – and people – in Villasmius and that would be just a bit too much for this introvert.  The primary reason I didn’t choose Villasimius is that everything is “all inclusive” resorts with a minimum stay of 7 days.  I love the beach as much as the next person but I want to see lots of different beaches and not be required to stay at the same one for 7 nights.  So with a little digging, I found that the next coastal town up from Villasimius is Costa Rei.  And although many places that I contacted said that they, too, had a 7 night minimum, a couple said they would do 5 nights for slightly more.  When you only have so many days to explore, sometimes a little more money is worth the pain to your bank account!

Nites

I chose to stay at the newish hotel Il Vaschello (www.ilvascellohotel.it) because they would allow me to stay only 5 nights AND they would guarantee me a sea view room.  In my walks, I’ve seen 3 other resorts in Costa Rei so if Il Vascello isn’t your thing or they don’t have availability – they only have about 20 rooms which I appreciate – you can find something else.

Whatever you choose, you should know in advance that no hotel is directly on the beach so don’t make that a criteria.  And don’t fall for the deceptive pictures!  Thankfully, however, each hotel has their own “private” part of the beach where you will have a sun bed and umbrella and access to the most gorgeous blue waters!

Bites

This is where Costa Rei falls way short and probably why more people go to Villasimius: there are few restaurants available.  This also explains why many hotels want to do the “all inclusive” rates but, as a vegetarian, I try and avoid these sorts of “deals.”

The “Pink Lady” is right next to Il Vascello and is an adequate pizzeria and ristorante.  On the night I went, it was packed and thankfully I had thought to make a reservation because they were turning people away.

In the little square that is home to the “Pink Lady” is also a Pizza al Taglio which is inexpensive and really quite good.  My favourite Italian pizza is pizza con patata e rosmarino and they had so I was quite the happy boy.

The other restaurant that I found is call Il Mirragio.  It’s up the hill from the beach community, but an easy walk, so if you want a change of scenery, although the food is basically the same as the Pink Lady and the same price, check this place out.

Sites

It’s the beach.  There really is nothing else to do in Costa Rei other than to spend the day at the beach, the night have cocktails, and then dinner.  In a word, relaxing!

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Lovely town that is probably the most “cosmopolitan” in Sardegna

Cagliari is probably the most metropolitan of the cities on Sardegna.  But don’t come here looking for fantastic shopping, an abundance of ruins, or anything else of that nature; it’s the capital, and a port, and that’s it.

Nites

In all of my research, there doesn’t appear to be a plethora of hotels from which to choose in Cagliari.  In fact, I think I could only find about 5 four-star hotels and no five-star.  And there were only a few three-stars that I recall.  But if your travels take you to Cagliari and you want to spend a day – which I highly recommend just so you can get a flavor of the capital – I would highly recommend the T Hotel (www.thotel.it).  It’s a bit removed from the “center” but a lovely walk all the same.  (Public transport isn’t high on the Sardinian programme so be prepared to walk.)  And the hotel is a bit big for my preferences but I must admit, the staff is outstanding and the rooms huge and creatively decorated.  There was also something about the rotating art installation in the lobby (that’s how big the hotel is!) that changed during the 2 days I was there that I really liked.  But most of all, the T Hotel has the best breakfast I have ever experienced in any hotel in the world.  Full stop!  The fresh squeezed blood orange juice each morning was the epitome of sweet nectar: I nearly made myself sick each day because I couldn’t get enough!  And just about anything else you could want to start off your day was available.

Bites

I chose to be in Cagliari near Ferre Agosta – a national holiday in Italy and the start of the Italian holidays – so most restaurants in the city were closed.  So, my only proper meal – my first meal in Italy is always buffala mozzarella, bread, tomatoes, olives, and wine, in my room, something I started when I first came to Italy in 1992 – was at the T Hotel.  It’s a lovely restaurant and if you don’t mind having dinner in your hotel, check it out.  For me, my next trip to Cagliari will involve greater adventures in the culinary persuits!

Sites

The one thing that most people come to Cagliari to see is the Roman Amphitheatre.  Regrettably, the Amphitheatre is closed indefinitely because of erosion and they are desperately trying to preserve this landmark.

A walk along the port – which runs parallel to Via Roma, the main shopping street – is a lovely way to end the day or even relax in the afternoon soon.  Thankfully, even though it’s a port, there are not huge container ships there so don’t be afraid.

And if you have the chance, seek out the Cattedrale do Santa Maria.  It really is a stunning basilica – and nearly the highest point in Cagliari (which happens to be the Arsenale, just up the street) – and given it’s location and the craftsmanship that is evident there, it’s well worth the hike.

And finally, and although not a site, per se, I highly recommend that you seek out this little shop called Sini on via Baylle (off of Via Roma near the port).  Sini specializes in all sorts of knives (coltelli) and thanks to the advice of Mauro at the T Hotel, the famous Pattada and Arbus knives that are still handmade to this day.  The man who owns the shop doesn’t speak English, but if you come with the name of what you want written on a piece of paper, and use a bit of pantomime, he’ll show you the knives he has in dusty little boxes behind him.  These knives aren’t cheap, so making a decision is difficult, but you really shouldn’t leave Sardegna without one!

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As a stop-over, it’s not that bad

What an interesting place!  This little city on a port really is just a stop-over for other locations on the island.  It’s a shame as the people really are lovely and helpful but there isn’t a whole lot to do here.  So, as a point of suggestion, if you come to Menorca for the beaches – which means you will have to fly in to Mahon – book an early flight to Mahon and book a late flight out of Mahon: that late flight will allow you to get from your beach resort to the airport in plenty of time, even if you take the bus!

If, however, you decide to stroll around Mahon for a bit, nothing more than an afternoon and night is all that’s needed.  Don’t get me wrong, it is a nice place not something that requires a lot of time.

Nights

The Hotel San Miguel (http://www.hotelsanmiguel-menorca.com/) is an absolute dream hotel that deserves far better than its 3 star rating!  After finally locating the hotel – 2 blocks off of Placa Reial in a residential neighborhood – I was a bit concerned by the outside.  In fact, I wondered “what have I gotten myself in to?”  But once inside and you are greeted by the staff, it all changes.  The décor is very mideval in style but once in the room… what a pleasant surprise.  The rooms are large and gorgeously decorated (not by Ikea).  The bathrooms are equally large and even have a whirlpool tub to help ease the aches and pains of walking around the hilly city!  And the breakfast a far cry better than I ever expected and to sit in the lovely inner courtyard just a wonderful way to start the day.  I will return!

If you want something a bit more posh with a bit of a view, try the Hotel Port Mahon.  I thought of staying here – and am glad that I didn’t because I loved the Hotel San Miguel – but I did go here to pick something up and it does look lovely and the staff seemed really quite nice.  But, be warned: they say they have a view of the port which is what they have.  They are not ON the port, they are on a hill overlooking the port.  It is gorgeous, don’t get me wrong, but I was expecting it to be down on the port.

Bites

I only spent one night in Mahon so I can only recommend one restaurant:  Wepi (Moll de Llevant 227 (+34) 971 354818; no website).  Wepi describes themselves as a mediterranean restaurant and I would describe their food as eclectic fun!  And it’s not Spanish inspired which, after a while, was a welcomed departure.  And for this vegetarian, they had some wonderful vegetarian options that didn’t involve a salad and actually had some protein in it!  The restaurant is on the port, where most of the restaurants are located, so go for a stroll and find this restaurant.  It’s amazing.

Sites

Well, I must admit that I didn’t find a whole lot of actual sites to take in while in Mao.  I walked everywhere, and had fun people watching and see some of the various neighborhoods, but other than that, there’s not a lot.  Most people seem to take a boat tour around the harbor but that wasn’t my thing.  You can, however, and it will cost 11 euro per person.  And that was it.

So there you go.  If you go to Menorca for a bit of sun – which I do recommend – you can probably avoid a lay-over in Mahon if you plan your flights from Barcelona or Madrid correctly.  And if you can’t avoid the lay-over, or just want to say “I’ve been to Mao,” they stay at the Hotel San Miguel and eat at Wepi.  Enjoy!

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Sant Tomas a small bit of peace and relaxation

Menorca (also Minorca) is the smallest of the Ballaeric islands and the most tranquil.  The two primary tourist “attractions” would be Mahon (also Maó) and Ciutadella, the former capital.  But most people come to Menorca for their beaches.  And what stunning beaches they are!

There are tons of beach resorts to choose from and I chose Sant Tomas.  And let me tell you, the beaches are everything they are cracked up to be and the perfect place to relax and recharge.

Nights

There are 5 hotels in the tony hamlet of Sant Tomas.  The oldest is the Hotel Santo Tomas (built in the 1960s I think).  Although the hotel is a bit dated and looks circa 1970s (at least for the last renovation), it fulfills the typical beach resort requirements: it’s right on the beach, the rooms are small and minimal, and nearly everything is included in the price of your stay.  (See below for more.)

The negative to the Hotel Santo Tomas, I’m afraid is two-fold: they attract a LOT of tour groups so those of us not part of a tour are left with what’s left.  When I checked in, they tried to give me a room with a view of “the garden” which is really the street!  The second downside is that there are a LOT of children running around.  I love kids, so don’t get me wrong, but when you want to chill, read, or whatever, it’s kind of difficult to do when there is screaming and crying all around you.

If I were to return to Sant Tomas, I would recommend the Sol Melia (http://es.melia.com/hoteles/espana/menorca/sol-menorca/home.htm) a resort that is for adults only.  (And they have daily bocce tournaments!)

Another option that I would recommend is one of the numerous condo/house rentals in the village.  They are all owned by the various resorts, I suspect, but at least they have their own kitchens and you don’t have to eat as part of buffet.  (And I bet there are laundry facilities!)

Bites

Because Sant Tomas is a resort community, there really isn’t much in the way of restaurants.  And this is why each hotel property is all inclusive.  I’m not a fan of buffets, and I never will be, but here in Sant Tomas, you have to get over that!  The buffet at the Hotel Sant Tomas is average and the kindness of the staff definitely helps.  But eating in a large setting is not my idea of fun!  And given that they cater to the older crowd, few of whom are vegetarian (but should try it!), there isn’t much for the vegetarians in the crowd.  Thank god for the salad bar!

There are also 2 supermarkets in the village where you can also buy everything that you want.  On one trip, I saw a couple buying things for a barbecue so there are either places that you can barbecue or one of the rentals had facilities.  I’d take this option, even without tofu, any day over the buffet.

There are a couple of so-called restaurants in the village but they are small and don’t really offer anything overly gourmet.  In fact, I would guess that the upside to these “restaurants” is simply that they are not a buffet.

Sights

There really isn’t much to do in Sant Tomas other than to relax on the beach or poolside.

For those of you who get a bit antsy, there is an amazing trail that goes along the coast line in both directions from Sant Tomas and I highly recommend it.  You can go for as long, or as short, as you like and fear not: the paths is clearly marked throughout.

There is also a castle which although interesting to visit, isn’t really worth the trek.  So go back to the beach and get your tan on!

And there you have it: Sant Tomas in a nutshell.  It’s a beautiful place and there are lots of return guests – think the movie “Dirty Dancing” without baby in the corner – but I think that once you’ve been, that really is enough unless it’s easy for you to book a last minute trip.  If you have a long distance to travel to get here, I can recommend other parts of Spain.  So safe travels and enjoy!

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Zagreb, Croatia

When you consider Zagreb in relation to the rest of Croatia, it really is quite large.  In the larger scheme of things, this population of 800K – 1million people is really quite small.  And nowhere is this more evident than in the city center and what has been divided as the old Zagreb and the new Zagreb.  As such, you really don’t need more than 2 days to see all that Zagreb has to offer: anything beyond this, you will honestly find yourself revisiting already-seen sights, and just wandering.  That said, it is still worth the visit and I encourage everyone to make it part of a larger tour of Croatia as a whole.

Nights

The President Pantovcak hotel (http://www.president-zagreb.com/) is a wonderful 4 star hotel that I highly recommend.  Never, in all of my travels, have I honestly felt so attended to.  But first things first: don’t be put off by the splash screen of the hotel’s website; I was at first and am glad that I decided to stay here.

The hotel is small and consists of roughly 10 rooms, all of which (I think) look out over a park-like garden.  Depending on your room type, you will have varying types of decks/patios; I didn’t use mine too much because it was just too hot, even at night.  But, if nothing else, just having the deck made me feel better.

Breakfast in the morning is an absolute treat!  The fruit, the cheese, the juice and coffee all amazing.  And once the hotel found out that I am a vegetarian, they made me eggs, rather than a meat tray, for the remaining days.  Like I said, I’ve never felt so attended to. (Breakfast is not included in the price but definitely worth the extra money, and I never think this!)

If there is one downside to the President Pantovcak, it is that it is located just on the outskirts of the old town.  It only takes 5 minutes to walk to the center, so it’s not bad, but you can’t just step right outside your hotel… you have to take a few steps.

Now, if you want to stay elsewhere, I can make a few recommendations.  For all out glory, stay at the Regent Esplanade (http://www.regenthotels.com/zagreb-hotel-hr-10000/zagr1).  I went here for drinks and didn’t want to leave the lobby!  I can only imagine what the rooms are like!

Another interesting find, at least to me, was the Palace Hotel (http://www.palace.hr/): interesting because it is a stunning building very centrally located –although a tad close to the train tracks – and it only received 4 stars.  I didn’t stay here, so I can’t vouch for the rooms – or that of the Esplanade – but it looks like a viable option, especially if the President is booked.

And one last thing: I would not recommend staying at either the Westin or the Sheraton hotels.  Although both of these hotels are given 5 stars by the local tourism council, at least from the outside, I don’t know how this is possible.  And in addition to that, both hotels are quite a schlep to the old town.  You have better options.

Bites

I only went to one restaurant the 2 nights that I went to dinner: Nova.  This is a vegetarian restaurant located a short distance from the center on the main street, Ilica.  If you’re not a vegetarian, but are willing to try something a bit different, this is your place!  The restaurant is a bit hard to find because it’s not right on Ilica street, but if you pay attention, you will see the stairs leading to the first floor restaurant.  Okay, so it doesn’t have outdoor seating, but when you get tired of the fish and grilled meats every night, you have to make compromises.  Nova has nightly specials as well as a standard menu and if I do say so myself, the chick pea soup with oregano was incredible!  I was a bit hesitant at first, but with the sesame seeds (instead of salt!), phenomenal.  The smoked tofu, the setai, the quinoa, and everything else made this vegetarian one happy man.

Sights

As I said at the beginning, there isn’t a lot to do in Zagreb and it really can be done in 2 days.  You can try to divide your days in to upper old town and lower old town, but these only take about a half day each.  And that’s with lots of photos, coffee, and strolling.  But, whatever you do, do not miss out on meandering through the Dolac market.  Stunning!

You don’t need to buy anything – but if you want some fruit or veg to snack on in the parks, here’s your place – but the colours, the interactions, and the smells are incredible.  There is also a meat market under the outdoor market but buyer beware: I was having flashbacks of the souks in Marrakesh with the smells, the flies, and, well, you get the picture.

I am typically a big fan of museums but museums that were about ethnography, natural history, native arts, etc just didn’t do it for me.  The one museum that I did go to was the Strossmayer Gallery of Old Masters.  Whoever chose the name for this museum is a former marketer; there are 2 old masters in the museum, neither of which were the artists’ best works.  And if you must know, there is a Bruegel the elder and a Tintoretto that don’t have much fanfare surrounding them.  The cost to enter is only 10 kruna so it won’t break the bank, but if you plan to come here to get out of the heat, think again; the museum is not air conditioned and I can only image what it is like full of people!  When I commented to the nice ticket-taker how hot it was – as in, it can’t be good for the paintings – she simply said “I know” in a matter-of-fact tone.

The other thing that I do highly recommend is taking a stroll down Tkalciceva street.

This street is lined with bars and coffee shops and during the day, a wonderful place to relax and get out of the heat.  Although I didn’t venture here at night, I suspect it is crowded and packed with the locals.  The street isn’t far from the Dolac market and is listed on most maps so you should be fine.

Overall, I think Zagreb is a great place and I am chuffed that I finally did it: everyone questioned why I chose Zagreb, much less Croatia, but all that I know is that I am happy I did..  And if you can do it before it becomes a formal part of the European Union, do it; it’s one of the few easily accessible places that you can still go and pay 200 kruna for a bottle of wine!  I love monopoly money!

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Dubrovnik, Croatia

Nights

Dubrovnik is a tough town in terms of where to stay: you either have ridiculously expensive or 3-star or below.  I honestly don’t think that there is anything in between.  I chose to stay at the Hotel Excelsior and, in all honestly, I wouldn’t recommend you stay here unless you have a written guarantee of a sea-view room; don’t be fooled by a “garden view” room because there is no garden.  In fact, the hotel – like most things in Dubrovnik – is located on a hill sloping down to the Adriatic so there is no room for a garden and thus, no such thing as a garden-view room.

And thing before I forget: 2 other sites referred to the Excelsior as “art deco” in style.  Don’t believe them.  If you are looking for late 1980s Sheraton Hotel furniture, rugs, décor, and ambiance, the Excelsior is your place.  But quite honestly, it’s not a 5 star hotel and definitely not worth the price.

In my search for different accommodations after I couldn’t stand looking at a wall any longer (the so-called) “garden-view” room, I found 2 hotels that I would be willing try should my travels bring me back to Dubrovnik: the Hotel Grand Villa Argentina (www.hoteli.argentina.hr) or the Pucic Palace (www.thepucicpalace.com). I didn’t stay in either, but the Argentina is on the Adriatic and looks stunning whereas the Pucic Palac is inside the city wall and I thought it looked stunning.  But since I didn’t stay at either, your guess is as good as mine.

Bites

Most of the restaurants in Dubrovnik seem to be situated around the city wall.  Despite my best efforts to either obtain information, or find it on my own, I couldn’t find any restaurants more than a few city blocks from the city wall.  But all is not lost; you just have to be prepared to put up with all of the tourists that descend on the town.

My personal favourite restaurant was nishta (www.nishtarestaurant.com) which is completely vegetarian (with vegan options if you prefer).  Not only did I love the restaurant because it was vegetarian, but its selections from around the world were truly stunning.  Located on Prijeko street within the city walls, it can be a bit tricky to find, but search out the only restaurant with purple table covers and purple chairs, and you are there.  But be sure to make a reservation; people were constantly turned away both times that I ate here.

Another place that I enjoyed was Chihuahua (no website), a Mexican restaurant just outside the city walls.  I know: why go to Dubrovnik and have Mexican food.  Well, for starters, if you get tired of the grilled fish and meat all over the place, you might welcome a little bit of a change.  But Americans be warned: even though the food is really quite good, don’t come with a hankering for avocado.  They don’t really seem to have avocados here.  And, in fact, not one entrée listed avocado as being included and although they had guacamole listed as an available “side,” my bet was on light green stuff from a jar so I avoided that.  But, that said, the salads was fantastic and the enchiladas spicy and full of flavour.  And they had Mexican beers, local beers, and my favourite: Stella!

And finally, if you need one more suggestion, I would suggest Mimoza (no website) which is right across from the Hilton hotel.  The downside to the Mimoza is that, like most restaurants in Dubrovnik, there is a “hawker” outside inviting you in to their restaurant.  This is a huge turnoff for me and I typically turn away.  But Mimoza came highly recommended by the one person at the Excelsior who I liked and trusted and it wasn’t too bad.  For a vegetarian, like most places, the menu wasn’t very inventive, but the restaurant was full (and not all tourists) and everyone seemed to enjoy their meals.  And the fact that the waiters were great is a plus in my book.

Sites

Dubrovnik doesn’t really have much to offer apart from the Adriatic.  Don’t get me wrong: the Adriatic is stunning, the water crystal clear, and the temperature divine even in early July.  But if you are looking for more than sunning and eating/drinking at night, Dubrovnik may not be your place.

The above said, there are a few things that you can do that I certainly recommend very highly.  Although it sounds a bit trite, the walk around the city wall really is amazing and worth the price of admission.  (But don’t bother buying the booklet; it really doesn’t tell you much that you need to know.)  The views down in to the city with the walls are really spectacular as well as the views out to the sea and the rest of the surrounding island.

Another trip that I highly recommend is taking the cable car to top of the mountain to the original fort.

First of all, the views looking down upon the old city are breathtaking (literally and figuratively). Likewise, the views as you descend the mountain are equally amazing.  Note: it is possible to walk up and down from the fort.  The hike up is a doozie so I would recommend taking the cable car up and then walking back down the meandering path.  And once you are at the fort, be prepared for truly amazing views: not only can you see down to the fort but you can see so much more of Dubrovnik and the surrounding villages, as well as the mountain ranges beyond the fort that you cannot see from “down below” in the city center.  The remnants of the old fort are interesting but I honestly don’t think they were worth the price of admission.

And finally, a trip to Dubrovnik wouldn’t be a trip to Dubrovnik if you didn’t do the three island tour.  Okay, yes, it is a tourist trap bar none, but if you want something different and want to get away from the beach for a bit, do the trip: it’s an all day event (some with lunch, some without) and seeing the islands really is amazing, not to mention the views to the “mainland.”

One of the islands has about 150 inhabitants, another 300 and then the largest 600 all of which rely completely on tourism.  So, a word to the wise: bring your own food and water and don’t buy anything because you will pay 2 to 3 times the price in already expensive Dubrovnik.  One other note to the wise: the end of the tour is a 3+ hour “beach time” and if you are beached out (or sunburnt) and need to avoid the sun, bring a book and an ipod because there isn’t much to do once you’ve walked the promenade.

So, if your travels get you anywhere close – or you just want a little side trip from Italy – go to Dubrovnik; it really is a gorgeous place and something that you should experience at least once in your travels.

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Lisbon, Portugal

Portugal is a fascinating country that, unfortunately, has been hit by the economic crisis  resulting in high unemployment and fearful citizens.  But don’t let that stop you from going at least once in your life.  Lisbon, the most known city in Portugal really is a lovely place and the people are attentive and helpful.   But beware: there are areas that are not safe after sundown and never, ever, forget where you are and remain aware of your immediate surroundings.

Nights

Unfortunately, there aren’t a lot of hotels worth noting in Lisbon.  Of course, all of the chain hotels are here, but they are all located  near the zoo and relatively close to the airport, and really offer nothing that is Portuguese culture.  And,  most importantly, none of these hotels are anywhere near the things that you really must see when in Lisbon.  So I would suggest that you stay at the York House (http://www.yorkhouselisboa.com/).

The York House is a lovely boutique hotel within walking distance to the tram, the old town and even the convention center if you are there on business.  The rooms are like having your own apartment and vary in size, style, and ambiance.   When I checked in – quite early as I arrived from the States – they kindly gave me a room right away.   But being the workaholic  that I am, there was no desk.  When I went back to  the reception desk, the woman said “you don’t like the room?” to which I replied, “not really and I’d love to have a desk.”  In the States, I would have been met with attitude.  Here, the woman just said “come back in a few hours and I will have a new room for you.”  And boy  did she!  The room had a separate room with a desk, a sofa, and windows that looked out to the courtyard.  Stunning!  So stay here when you travels next take you to Lisbon!

Bites

Lisbon is peppered with little restaurants that are seemingly tucked in to alcoves on every street.  I must admit that I have never tried one of these restaurants, and probably never will, but if you go, I suspect it is typical Portuguese culture.   But fear not: I can definitely recommend a few restaurants that are well worth seeking out.

Roughly 10 years ago, I went to Al Cantara Cafe and loved it and was pleased to see that it still exists in all its glory (www.alcantaracafe.com).  Go here for a visual experience that can’t be beat!  And the food is divine, the cocktails outstanding, and the wine list fantastic (but don’t go for the local wines; they really aren’t worth it).

Relatively new to the scene is Kais (www.kais-k.com) which is another large, open venue much like the Al Cantara Cafe.  Absolutely stunning and fabulous food!

If you are in a bind, I would suggest Sacramento which is in the heart of the shopping area and a bit on the touristy side.  I don’t think they have a website, but every concierge that I asked for recommendations wanted to send me here so I think everyone knows this restaurant.  They have food for everyone, even this vegetarian, so you can’t go wrong and the prices won’t kill you.

And for those of you vegetarians, I found the most amazing restaurant run by the sweetest people: Jardim das Cerejas (www.jardimdascerejas.com).  According to their website, they are vegetarian  but I think they are vegan actually.  The food was amazing!   But be warned: it’s buffet style  which I personally don’t like, but when I saw a vegetarian restaurant in Lisbon, I had to try it.  Truly amazing food, with everything you could want (except desert which was extra), and it was ridiculously affordable.  Seek this restaurant out and enjoy this little hidden treasure.

Sights

Lisbon is a walking city.  Yes, there are trams that go everywhere and even a “subway” that appears to just go in one big circle (thus why it’s in quotes), but to really experience the city, just walk.  And  a great word  of advice that was shared with me: if you feel like you are getting lost, just follow the tram tracks.  If there is a tram line near your hotel – which there is near the York House – you will make it home.

The Bario Alto is an amazing place with gorgeous views over the city.  Although most Lisboans live outside the city center, this is the closest thing that you will get to old Lisbon.  I could wonder for hours here, just getting lost and people watching.

Another great experience is to traipse up to the Castle overlooking the city.  Its a hike: whether you walk up the stairs or follow the tram line up, it’s all uphill!   But the views, again, are stunning and quite honestly, you’ll feel good about yourself for doing this uphill hike!

If shopping is your thing, Lisbon really isn’t your place.  The glass and china that you can find can be a lovely addition to your travel mementos, but other than that, there really isn’t much worth saving room in your luggage for.  Well, perhaps you should save a little room for a non-traditional port wine from Oporto!  But I’ll leave  that up to you.

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Paris, France

When I was younger, I romantically believed that I would not go to Paris  until it was for my honeymoon.   When it became apparent that a honeymoon was not in the immediate future, and the desire to go to Paris, was too great, I went.  I love Paris!   Paris gets a lot of heat from the tourists who claim that the French – and especially the Parisians – are rude.  I find that if you try to speak French – learn a few words, people, it’s not that hard  – they are much more accommodating.   And even if they are rude to you, get over it; Paris is one of the most gorgeous cities in the world.   So get on that plane and go!

My first visit to Paris was for the Tour de France in 2000-something.  It was short, it was rainy, and I was hooked!

Nights

Believe it or not, I’ve only stayed in 2 hotels  in all of my trips to Paris.

l’Hotel (http://www.l-hotel.com/) is a classic hotel that has this neoclassic air about it that I loved.  But be forewarned:  it’s not cheap but, then again, nothing in Paris is cheap.

The other Hotel that I found, which is my new favourite, is Hotel ‘adresse (http://www.ladresse-hotel.com/).  [Warning: be careful… there are 2 hotels with this name in Paris so choose this one.   The link is correct.]  If you are in Paris  for a convention, this hotel is ideally situated a few blocks  from the center.  But if you are in Paris  for pleasure, it is just a few blocks from the Champs-Elysees which is perfect: you are removed from the tourists, and the noise, but close  enough to do everything that you could ever want.   And if you are prone to taking the metro – I prefer  to walk everywhere – there is a metro stop nearby.

Bites

I must admit that I am not a fan of French cooking. It’s not personal, I just prefer simple food over overly complicated sauces and preparations.   But I still  love a number of restaurants in Paris and I encourage you, if at all possible, go to one if not all of these.

Hands down, my favourite restaurant in Paris is Casa Olympe (http://www.casaolympe.com/).  I’ve been here on business and with friends and the owners are just lovely and helpful.  And the food: divine inspiration!  It’s a tiny restaurant, out of the way, and it just can’t be beat!

At the request of a friend, I’ve also been to L’Atelier de Joel Robuchon. (http://www.joel-robuchon.net/).  This is one of those restaurants that, if you have the chance, you should go: the attention to detail incredible and the fact that there appears to be one wait staff for each diner astounding!  But have an expense account (if those still exist) because it is ridiculously expensive!

Near Hotel l’Adresse (see above) is a very rustic and hyper restaurant called Chez Georges (no website but the address is 273, Boulevard Péreire , 75017 Paris).  This is a fun, more affordable restaurant probably because it is off the Champs-Elysees.  Try it.

And for a truly original experience, go to L’Atelier du Marche (http://www.atelierdumarche.com/).   The owner is a former doctor who, when he retired, knew that he wanted to open his own restaurant.  His strength is wine, not food so when he buys his wine – and it’s not the run of the mill French wines, but original and hard  to find wines – he then goes  to the chef and they discuss what will pair well with the wine.  Inspired!  It’s small, and intimate, and best of all:  when walking down the street to this little restaurant, the Eiffel Tower is in front of you.  Trust me: there is nothing more romantic than exiting the restaurant after a divine meal to see the Eiffel Tower lit at night!

Sites

This is a tough one because just about everyone knows  what  you need to see when you are in Paris:  the Louvre, the Eiffel Tower, the Arc de Triomphe, Musee Picasso and Notre Dame.  So I will just tell you to walk everywhere.  Really.   Don’t stop.  Just walk and you will see the beauty that is Paris  in all it inspired splendor.

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Melbourne, Australia

(Updated 03 August 2013)

The Australians are truly some of the nicest, most accommodating, and most giving people I have ever met in all of my travels.  Perhaps it’s just that large island in the middle of nowhere that is so hard to get to that makes them nice, I don’t know, but if you have the chance to go, and can handle the long flight, you must do it!

Nights

Most people stay in downtown Melbourne – also known as the CBD – and as well they should.   I first stayed at the Hotel Lindrum (http://www.hotellindrum.com.au/) shortly after they opened many years ago and I tell you, it is still worth the money and the “just on the edge of the CBD”: the staff are amazing, the rooms divine, and it’s not so noisy with clubs and restaurants right underneath you.  And if you happen to be going to the Australian Open, it’s a great location: Melbourne Park right across the park and an easy walk!

The CBD isn’t much different than any other downtown: you have the restaurants, the shops, and some really interesting touristic things to see and do.

Bites

taxi: one of my personal favourites is in Federation Square (aka Fed Square) and it is called taxi (http://www.fedsquare.com/index.cfm?pageID=122). The food is amazing, the views spectacular and the people watching in the restaurant alone aren’t too bad either!

Chocolate Buddha: if you want something a little less expensive than taxi (above), then go here (http://www.chocolatebuddha.com.au/).  I love this place and have been here many times, both for fun and even a relaxed business meeting.

For a special night out – date, friends, family, or just your own personal celebration – I highly recommend Becco (http://www.becco.com.au/) in the CBD.   The temptation to be rushed at this upscale Italian restaurant is pretty prevalent from the start but with a bit of patience, and maybe even a comment to the server, things slow down and you can enjoy the atmospher, the amazing wine list, and the outstanding food.  And if it’s on the menu: the buratta is amazing!

Also in the CBD is The Meatball and Wine Bar (http://www.meatballandwinebar.com.au/).  This place is funky and cool and, if you can believe it, they even make a vegetarian “meatball” that rocks!  The wine here is fantastic and although I’m not normally a fan of “family style tables” it works in the off-the-beaten path” restaurant.  Seek it out if you need a relaxing lunch some day or  maybe even a kick-back dinner.

And before I forget… if you are in the trendy Fitzroy area, you must go to the Trippy Taco.  Okay, it’s mostly vegetarian, I think, but trust me when I tell you have not had vegetarian mexican food like this before!  No beans and rice burrito here: it’s veg takes on the classics  and it will curl your toes.  And beware the hot sauce: they know how to do hotsauce right!

Sights

I am a huge fan of churches – the architecture, the peace, and the stained glass windows and St Patrick’s Cathedral does not disappoint.

Two other churches worth seeking out are the German Lutheran church and St Paul’s.  Neither are in the CBD, but both are worth a stroll and wander around this amazing city.

But while you are in the CBD, two worthy sites to see are the Old Melbourne Gaol (http://www.oldmelbournegaol.com.au/) and the Queen Victory Market (http://www.qvm.com.au/).  I opted to start with the Old Melbourne Gaol where Ned Kelly was imprisoned.  It’s a self-guided tour but really fascinating and really interesting.  The first time I went here, it was the Australian winter and I couldn’t get over how cold and damp it was in the Gaol.   It kind of put everything in to perspective.

After the Gaol, I headed over the Queen Vic market for a bit of a wander and a coffee.  You can find everything that you would ever want at the Queen Vic: fruit and veg beyond belief (made me wish I lived here just so I could shop here all the time), household goods, and yes, touristy things that you can take home to family and friends.

If you are in need of a break from the people, the cars, and all of the hazards of everyday life, you must go to the Fitzroy Gardens (located just a hop and a skip from the Hotel Lindrum).  The park is just the place for a bit of peace and relaxation.

Sights outside of Melbourne

Healesville Sactuary.  If you have a car or a friend with a car, you must go here just to see some koalas, kangaroos, and other native animals.  What an amazing place.   Unfortunately, you are no longer allowed to hold koalas but it was worth every penny and the sanctuary will appreciate the support

Great Ocean Road.  I know, it sounds touristy and perhaps it is, but you really must go.  To be honest, none of my Aussie friends wanted to do the drive, and I suspect yours won’t either, but there are tons of tour buses available so book in advance and do it.  Why do I say book in advance?   Because some of them book up quite quickly – there was one company that only took small groups and the bus had swivel chairs so you didn’t have to crane your neck! – and you don’t want to miss out.   But most of the tours offer the same thing: tea and coffee along the way, a stop for lunch in a beach town (I recommend bringing your own snacks, drinks and lunch so that you have more time for exploring), and stops at Bells Beach

Apollo Bay

Loch Ard Gorge

London Bridge

and the 12 Apostles

St Kilda

If you decide that you’ve had enough of the CBD and want a bit of relaxation and beach culture, head to the St Kilda neighborhood.  This is the funky cool area with bars, small shops, an amusement park and beach, beach, and more beach.

I can recommend two hotels, and suggest a third if you decide to go to St Kilda.  My favourite is the Urban Hotel (http://melbourne.hotelurban.com.au/) which is a very short walk from the beach.  The decor is funky minimalist and the staff are fantastic.  And the fact that they have a great coffee bar for brekkie in the morning doesn’t hurt things!

The other hotel that I can recommend, but only if the Hotel Urban is booked, is the Tolarno (http://www.hoteltolarno.com.au/). This hotel is funky and I loved the old hand-hewn wood floors.  But the hotel is a tad on the noisy side – both inside and outside – but I would certainly stay here again.

The third place that I can recommend, although I have not stayed here, is the Prince Hotel.  This is the classic, and famous, hotel in St Kilda.  Every time I’ve been to St Kilda, it’s been booked so getting in can be a challenge.  But even if you can’t get in, go to the bar which is one of the most happening scenes in St Kilda just for a drink.

Bites

If you decide not to have brekkie at the Hotel Urban, walk up the street, away from the ocean and go to Cacao (http://www.cacao.com.au/).  The brekkie here is amazing: the cappuccino, latte, or whatever is HUGE, the croissants amazing, and the chocolates that you can take home are pure butter (or chocolate in this case).  Cacao also has sandwiches that you can eat there or take away and papers to read so that you aren’t too far removed from the haps in the world.

And with that, enjoy!

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Canakkale, Turkey

Canakkale is really an interesting little village right on the Dardanelles whose major claim to fame is Troy.  As such, Canakkale is pretty much the only place to stay if you want to take a dolmus (really, a public mini van) to the ruins of Troy.  Although your primary reason for coming to Canakkale is to see Troy, don’t miss out on the village itself.

Nights

Because this is the closest place to Troy, there really are a number of hotels to choose from.  And all are within easy walking distance of the bus station.  My personal choice here is the Hotel Kervansaray (www.anzachotel.com).  The hotel comprises the original, old home, and the newer addition that has been added on to the back.   If possible, get a room in the old house; the ceilings are high, you have views to the garden or street, and it really is charming.  Although I did not see the new edition in the back, it looks modern from the outside so I would guess that it is quite modern (and staid!) on the inside.

Bites

In terms of restaurants, most of them are situated along the sea-front so they are, unfortunately, a bit on the touristy side.  As with most places, I am certain that there are better restaurants “inland” but since I was only there for a couple of days, I couldn’t tell you.  But fear not!  We did go to Yalova Restaurant which, yes, was on the sea front, but just a bit removed from the tourist traps.  The food was incredible – except for a vegetarian – the wine list about as good as we saw, and the views of the sea outstanding.  In fact, the night we were here, my friend said “my birthday would be perfect if I saw a dolphin” and, 2 minutes later, 3 dolphin were seen jumping in and out of the sea!  It really couldn’t get any more perfect than that

Sights

But, as I mentioned earlier, Canakkale is all about Troy.  In fact, the movie was filmed here and in the surroundings and, as a result of the filming, the film crew left a replica of the Trojan Horse used in the film for the tourists to marvel at.  (Yes, I did see it, and I did take a picture, but…)  If you need a souvenir of your visit, you will find it: every store, shop, and vendor has “trinkets” that you can take home so don’t worry.  But let’s get out to Troy.

If you aren’t part of a guided tour group, getting to Troy is interesting.  You have to buy your ticket in advance at a kiosk near the bus terminal and where the boats dock. But then, to get to Troy, you have to go to a different place that is a good 10 minute walk away.  And be forewarned: there is no “terminal,” there is no shelter (from sun or rain), and there isn’t much in terms of “grabbing a bite to eat” while you wait for the bus.  In fact, you get the bus under a bridge and the bus, is really a mini-van that goes back and forth.  But it’s all relatively civilized if you have the right frame of mind.

Once the dolmus drops you off at Troy, you need to walk about a km to get to the actual site.  It really is quite odd, but when your not part of a tour group – and why would you be – you are a bit second tier.  Once at Troy, let your feet guide you: there is no specific route, per se, and you can pretty much go wherever you want.  

Troy is one of those places that you have to go visit in your life.  And if you are in Turkey to see Efes, then Troy is a natural part of the trip to include.  Would I return to Troy?  No.  (I would Efes!)  Am I glad that I went?  Yes.

The ruins of Troy are really quite simple and I suspect that if the Turkish government had more money, or there were other groups interested in excavating the site, more treasures would be found.  Given that Troy comprises 6 different eras – all of which can be seen in one way or another – one can only imagine what has yet to be found.  But what I found most enchanting was the ability to wander wherever I wanted, almost like a young child exploring.

All in all, I think we spent about 3 hours at Troy exploring and this was plenty.  If you needed to do it faster, you could: some of the tour buses came in after us and left before us. It’s a shame and also a reality I am afraid.

And with that, enjoy!

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Selcuk, Turkey

Selcuk is an interesting place and one that is hard to recommend to be honest.  If it weren’t for its proximity to Efes (Ephesus), I wouldn’t even recommend it.  But because it is the closest place to stay for Efes, I have to mention it.  But here’s the deal: only stay in Selcuk for one night.  The best itinerary would be to arrive in Selcuk at night, go to dinner, get some rest, and then head to the ruins that are Efes the following morning.  And when you are finished with Efes, either get on a bus or take a flight out because you have now seen all that there is to see in Selcuk.

Nights

The sheer paucity of hotels in Selcuk is staggering.  Perhaps this is a result of nothing more to do than to visit Efes.  In Selcuk, we stayed at the Kalehan Hotel (http://www.kalehan.com/) which is one of the better hotels in Selcuk.  And thankfully, our hotel in Alacati knew the owners (see post on Alacati, Turkey) so we were upgraded to a bigger room that was, apparently, much quieter than others.

The hotel is not 5 star and really closer to 3 star, but the staff are kind and the rooms clean.  If you look at their website, they are true to the “allure” of the hotel: its all out kitsch.  And, interestingly enough, the only hotel in Selcuk that does not have a shuttle from the train station to the hotel or a shuttle to Efes.  But for one night, this will do.

Bites

Dining options in Selcuk are pretty limited and uninspired unfortunately.  On our first night in Selcuk, we took a walk in search of restaurants and when we found one we liked, that’s where we went: Eski Ev (Ataturk Mah 1005 sk, No 1).   The staff were really pleasant and although the food was uninspired and they never seemed to have the local beer in stock, it worked.  On our second night in Selcuk, we looked for another restaurant to try and, in the end, went back to Eski Ev.  (I told you one night was enough in Selcuk.)  Our waiter – the same from the night before – was really kind and after seeing us a second time, spent some time chatting with us and telling us about his life in the army and school.   It was sweet and added a bit of charm to a really rather bland town.

Sights

But we weren’t in Selcuk for the town.  We were in Selcuk for Efes.  And it did not disappoint! After the above description, I may have put you off of Selcuk as a whole.  Don’t.  I just want you to know what to expect before you head go.  Because you must go for the sole matter of seeing Efes.

The only way to describe Efes is breathtaking.  It really should be one of the sites on every person’s list of “things I must see before I die.” 

We walked the 5+km from Selcuk to Efes in the morning calm and it really was lovely.  If you have the energy and inclination to do so, I highly recommend it.  But remember, once you get to Efes, you will have another umpteen km to walk in the site so be ready.  Because we walked, we entered from the south entrance.  Most people enter from the north.  But by entering from the south, and because we were walking, that meant we walked all the way to the north gate and then had to walk back down past everything we already saw.  But if I do say so myself: it’s worth it.  By retracing your steps, and even going in different directions, you have the opportunity to see things again, in a different light, or something that you didn’t see because of the tour group in front of it.

I can’t really make a recommendation of what you HAVE TO SEE; everything is breathtaking and worth as much time as you can give.  The Church of the Virgin Mary was especially important for me and I will be forever chuffed that I was able to see this amazing ruin.  As the story goes, it was the first church in the world to take the Virgin’s name and was also the place where Mary went after Joseph died.  It is also rumoured that Mary’s house is at the top of a mountain overlooking Efes (but this is a LONG hike uphill and really only reached by taxi which is a scam, unfortunately).

Another thing who’s mere size is overwhelming is the Library of Celsus.  We’ve all seen pictures but until you see the sheer size in all its detail and grandeure, it really can’t be understood: from every angle you see something new, some detail, and some play of light and shadow.

And finally, and regardless of where you start from, don’t forget to go to the Great Theatre.  I am, and always will be, partial to the Colosseum in Rome, but this is definitely a very close second. So make the effort and hike to the very top of the Great Theatre and just have a think about the surrounding lands.  If you look straight out, way off in the distance, you will see the water.  And then think about this: Efes used to be a port.  One side of Efes was a port as well as a place to battle incoming combatants.

The other thing that I would recommend is to rent the headphones as you enter the site.  I don’t typically advocate this as I am always suspicious of the information that they actually tell, but in this instance, I was so chuffed that I did.  I leaned more from the audio guide than I did from the booklet and the free information that I received when I bought my ticket.

And with that, enjoy!

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Alacati, Turkey

(updated 07 September 2015)

(updated 30 August 2013)

When in Turkey, if you need or want to relax and take in a bit of sun, there is really only one place to go on the Agean Coast: the Cesme Peninsula.  And on the peninsula, there is only one two to stay in: Alacati.

Alacati is a small village a couple of kilometres from the beaches and don’t worry, you can do the walk with ease.  Not only is the walk pleasant and you will see numerous summer houses, but it also gives you a bit of a push for the long day ahead of relaxing on the beach.

Nights

There really is only one place to stay in Alacati: the Alacati Tas hotel. (http://www.tasotel.com/).  Never have I stayed someplace so welcoming, so wonderful, and so relaxing.  The breakfast every morning is served outside in a peaceful courtyard looking at the pool.  And every afternoon, there is tea time that consists of tea, lemonade, and fresh made cakes.  And I would be remiss if I didn’t mention Oglum, the most adorable golden retriever who doesn’t know he is 8 years old.  (Sadly, Oglum passed away and has been replaced by a bunch of adorable and rambunctious kittens!)  Really, there are other places to stay in Alacati – Zenyap, the owner, tells me there are now about 100 boutique hotels in Alacati yet she was still the first – but look no further than this wonderful hotel.

The Tas Otel still remains my favourite place to stay in Alacati. Seynep, the owner, has such a deft touch with the hotel and the staff that it just seems that she knows what the guests want. Salih, the manager, is a welcomed smile after a long day of walking, beaching, or shopping that, even if I found myself grumpy or tired, he always made me smile. And then there’s Gökhan, the newest member of the staff who is just the most smiling and friendliest person you will ever meet. I think Gökhan has the night shift which can’t be fun but every morning, he had a smile on his face and when he returned in the late afternoon, he was still smiling. And good news: Seynep has rescued a 1-year old golden retriever puppy named Pan. He’s playful, “teething” a bit as of this writing, and just wants to be the centre of attention and I loved seeing him every day. But, fear not: the cats still rule the otel and Pan knows his place in the larger pecking order of things!

Tas Otel robbins egg blue stairsTas Otel garden

 

 

 

Bites

The Agrilia Cafe has moved from the former cigar factory across the street from Tas Otel to a new location but nothing has been lost.  If you are in Alacati during the summer, you must go here and you must sit outside in the courtyard.  The courtyard remains lovely, although a bit smaller  than the former location, and the food here is outstanding.  The staff here are lovely and the food outstanding.  And unlike most places that are popular, they don’t rush you out: the table is yours for as long as you want it.

But, if you only have 1 night in Alacati – a real shame I tell you – you must go to Beatrice Ristorante (Kemalpasa Cad Barbaros sk No 4 [no website]).  [CLOSED]  This restaurant is only open during the summer months because the only seating it has it outdoors.  When I was there, the lemon, orange and pomegranate trees were all in bloom, the flowers were fragant, and the staff incredible.  If I remember correctly, the chef is Italian and her husband is Turkish.  Because my friend and I both lived in Italy, we took the opportunity to speak with the chef in Italian and ask for a few special things that weren’t on the menu: I had caprese with a Turkish twist.  Lip-smacking good!

If you are in search of  one of the best meals you will probably have, anywhere, you most go to Barbun (http://www.barbunalacati.com/).  The food was absolutely divine and the staff attentive but not disruptive.  Before  my starter even arrived, I was presented with 5 small tastings that were prepared just for this vegetarian!  Oh, and the location: barbun is located on a side “street”  right off the crazy and packed main drag.  But these few metres from the main drag will transport you to a new land and an amazing dining experience.   I can’t wait to return!

A new arrival to the culinary scene, and definitely worth the splurge is Alancha (http://www.alancha.com/en/). A very short walk out of Alacati, and up a meandering hill, is this somewhat secluded restaurant with stunning views and even more stunning food! You are greated at the top of the stairs by the staff, then given the opportunity for a drink inside or to be shown to your table on the very large terrace. The views! And the food? Very modern Turkish in its presentation and preparation. The traditional tastes are there, and the incredients outstanding, and definitely not what you would find on any other menu (except, perhaps, something similar to Barbun, one of my favourates in Alacati, and a sister-restaurant to Alancha). It’s a set menu, which is a tad on the pricy side for Turkey, and the wines just as pricey, but I say do it; you only live once!

view from Alancha over Alacati Alancha tomatoes with herb sauce

 

 

 

New to the restaurant scene, and one of two overall favourites in Alacati is Asma Yapragi (https://www.asmayapragi.com.tr/). (My second favourite remains Barbun, above.)  If a trip to Alacati for the Tas Otel is not enough for you (which it should be), then this restaurant should do the trick! Slightly off the touristy “passagiatta” that takes place nightly on the “main street”, this restaurant is situated in a lovely courtyard where, once seated, you are shown in to the kitchen where all of the locally sourced food is on display for you to choose from.   And these aren’t just samples of the food: this is what you receive and if something is out, you need to move on.   Most of the non-meat dishes are room temperature but when it’s still hot and muggy outside, that’s okay. And god were they amazing! In fact, the food was so good that we tried to return on our last night only to be told that they are booked solid and there’s a wating list! So please, take my advice, and beg your hotel to make a reservation 1 month in advance. (Most places say that’s not necessary but when they book fast, you’d be sorry to miss this one!

Another new edition to the dining scene is Babushka (http://www.babushkaalacati.com/). I truly loved this restaurant and encourage everyone to gohere. Ozgur, our waiter, is also the husband of the wife/chef and was so incredibly helpful and encouraging about everything on the menu. And when the Olga, the chef, comes out to meet everyone, that says oodles to me! Much like Asma Yapragi, without the tour of the kitchen, the food is all sourced from local food markets that morning so there isn’t much of a change to change things up on the menu, but there are many many options, and each one outstanding!   And if they have the potaoe pancakes, order 2!

Other than the beach and some night-time shopping, there isn’t a lot to see or do in Alacati.  But that’s okay: relax, enjoy the weather and the people, and eat and be merry.  One day a week, there is a local market where the local farmers come in with their goods.  You can’t get any more fresh than what you see at the market and when you’re at the beach, what’s better than fresh fruit?

Sites

There are really 2 beaches to choose from here: Ilica and Alacati Bay.  The later is a bit more windy and favoured by the wind surfers so I recommend Ilica. The water is perfect and there are plenty of options in terms of sun beds and umbrellas.  And the water is so crystal clear it almost feels as though you are walking on glass the first time you go in to the water.  So once you get on to the beach, walk in whatever direction feels good to you, find that perfect location, pay the man to rent the sun bed and umbrella, and relax.  And whatever you do, don’t go to the Sheraton; they do, indeed, rent sunbeds but they charge about $100 per person, rather than that $10 everywhere else.  There really is no difference.

Alacati bay, walking in the other direction, is indeed  the wind-surfer’s paradise.  The only real difference between this beach and Ilica is the walk: walking to Alacati bay is in the blazing sun.  There are very few trees, and no sidewalk for much of the walk, and it does take  about 10 minutes longer, but  if you want to try something different, then this is the beach for you!

I don’t always like to recommend shopping suggestions but when I find something outstanding and worth the experience, I will certainly share.   There is amazing little shop, a bit off the beaten path, called Lisa Corti.  This store  has everything: clothes, textiles, ceramics, jewelery,  and even glassware.  What makes this store special?  I was looking for pillow covers with a very colourful design: Carolina, perhaps the manager?, spent about 30  minutes with me trying to find something and then suggested that I buy 2 shopping bags, they could make them in to pillows, and they would be ready the following day!  And they did and are absolutely amazing.  See this store out one evening before going to dinner.  Just allow yourself plenty of time to browse!

And with that, enjoy!

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istanbul Turkey

(updated 07 September 2015)

(updated 28 June 2013)

If you ever have the chance to go to istanbul, you really must go.  What an amazing, splendid, and gorgeous place.

Let me start by stating the obvious: it’s a Muslim country.   Men don’t really wear shorts (despite the image below) – even when it is 100 degrees F outside – and women certainly don’t expose their legs and shoulders.  But remember: we tourists stand out regardless so as long as you aren’t offensive (no mini-skirts ladies and tank tops guys), you will be fine.  And once you embrace the fact that you are a tourist and you WILL stand out, let the adventure begin.

So now that you are ready, let’s get to exploring.

Nights

There are a number of really great hotels in istanbul.  Check any guidebook or website and you will see everyone’s opinion.  For me, I prefer to stay outside of the really touristic areas – while remaining within walking distance of places – and so I chose the bentley hotel as my first place to stay.  (http://www.bentley-hotel.com/) This is just an absolutely stunning hotel with wonderful views of the street below.  And yes, I realize that a view of “the street below” may not be a sales point, but watching how the Turks drive is something to behold.  Another great thing about the bentley hotel is that it is located near the Nisantasi section of istanbul.  Some places say that this is like SoHo which I’m not so sure about.  But it is definitely up-scale, has great shops, phenomenal food, and if you can’t do without you Starbucks, there’s one there too!

Another hotel that I can definitely recommend is the Biz Cevahir Hotel (http://www.bizcevahirhotels.com/).  Okay, this goes against the comment above that I don’t like to stay in tourist areas, but seek this one out and stay.  Yes, it is in the Saltanahmet but it is so quiet and so peaceful that you wouldn’t know that you are steps away from the main tourist attractions.  And that’s the beauty: in less  than 5 minutes you are the Blue Mosque, the Hagia Sofia, and the tram.  (And if you want upscale, the Four Seasons is literally right around the corner!)

Another option, but only after the Biz Cevahir above, is to stay at the Mavi Ev (translated to the Blue House which is exactly what it is (http://www.bluehouse.com.tr/). The hotel is a bit tattered – or worn-in if you want – but you can’t beat the location or the staff: the hotel looks over some gardens to the Blue Mosque and the rooftop restaurant looks down upon the Arasta Bazaar where we were able to watch a performance of the Whirling Dervishes without the pressure of tipping and drinking more.

My newest recommendation, which I am truly in love with, is the Grand Hyatt Istanbul.  I know, it’s a chain hotel, but hear me out: after all of the hustle and bustle of the city, and when you are in need of a lovely pool and a truly quiet oasis in which to stay, this is the hotel for you.   The rooms and staff are what you would expect from a Western hotel chain, and that’s not always bad.  I’ll be back… once I’ve stayed at my favourite hotels in Yalikavak, Fethiye, and Alacati

Bites

Most restaurants that are really worth going to are closer to Taksim Square than anywhere else. I am vegetarian so I can’t really comment on the meats and fishes, but I can tell you that my friend eats fish and she loved it.  But if you want to try something a bit different and arguably a bit more healthy, you must go to Parsifal Restaurant (http://www.parsifalde.com/ [as of this writing, the website is not working so i can’t guarantee the restaurant still exists]).  The food was divine and we sat at an outside table watching the locals walk by – it’s on a side street so not so noisy as the main drag – under the stars on a perfectly cool evening.  Amazing!

Zencefil quiche and lassagnaAnother restaurant that I highly recommend is Zencefil Restaurant (www.zencefil.org) [the website is not working at this time but it’s probably in Turkish any way].  This restaurant is a bit more “healthy” and offers more meat and fish along with the vegetarian dishes.  There is a lovely outdoor courtyard and if you can get a table there, do it; the soft breezes, the scents in the air, and the mermer of diners and locals is unbelievable.

Roughly halfway between the Sultanahmet and the Bosphorus is Imbat (www.imbatrestaurant.com).  Reservations are essential as the night that I was there, the only Turkish I heard was from the staff.  The food is okay, nothing overly outstanding to be honest, but the views out  to the Bosphorus are stunning and worth the time.

For a wonderful meal, and even better views if you ask me, go back up to Taksim and seek out leb-i-derya (www.lebiderya.com).  It’s off the main drag  in Taksim, and down a quite steep hill, but it is definitely worth the trek. Reservations are imperative, once again, so have the hotel make a reservation  for you and, I recommend, a very detailed map or you will never find it!

If you need a break from the mezze and the turkish cuisine, seek out Cok Cok (http://www.cokcok.com.tr/).  This Thai restaurant is absolutely amazing and although our hotel said that it would be expensive, it really wasn’t anything more than we had experienced in any other city, or even in istanbul itself.  The Pad Thai was amazing and those vegetables wrapped in rice paper… melt in your mouth fantastic!

But before we leave the food tour and go back to another hotel, you must – I repeat, you must – try SIMIT, the turkish bread with sesame seeds on top.  You can find simit everywhere, but we found that the best places were the street vendors rather than the markets.

Sites

TOP 5 THINGS THAT YOU MUST SEE AND DO

  1. The New Queen Mother’s Mosque.  Stunning!  As soon as you cross over the Galata Bridge, the first Mosque you will see is the New Queen Mother’s Mosque.  Despite the temptation to skip it and go for the Egyptian Spice Market or the Ayasofya, go hear.  The peacefulness in comparison to the hectic outdoors is calming, the colours of the tiles breathtaking, and the architecture of the building on par with the Hagia Sofia (aka,Ayasofya).
  2. Now you can go to the Hagia Sofia.  Forget taking a taxi or the tram: walk!  Get lost!  It’s great and although it can be a bit disconcerting when you’re not sure where you are, you see parts of istanbul that I suspect few others see; we saw few other tourists as we walked up the hill.  And when you get there, be prepared to be awed!  The Hagia Sofia is everything that you have heard about and read about.  Take your time and whatever you do, try not to get annoyed with the tourists and the tour groups; if you do, you will miss out on the frescoes, the undulating floors, the architecture, and the beauty of a church that became a mosque and then a museum.
  3. Sit in the gardens between the Hagia Sofia and the Blue Mosque and people watch.  And if you fancy a sweet tea, one of the men will come around and offer you a sweet, hot, tea.  (And don’t forget to grab your simit to nibble on while you relax and people watch.
  4. Take a boat cruise down the Bosphorus to Anadolukavagi.  Not only is the boat ride cheap, but you will go under the Bosphorus bridge and the New Bridge which are architecturally stunning.  Once you arrive in Anadolukavagi, leave the old fishing village and hike up the hill to Yoros Castle.  Not only is the castle incredible, but you will also be able to look out to the Black Sea.  How often can you say that?
  5. And my last recommendation?  Climb up the Galata tower and wonder around the neighborhood of Galata.  The views from the tower are breathtaking and will give you a full view of all that istanbul has to offer.  And the neighborhood?  Incredible.

And now, a few words of warning.  But don’t worry: they aren’t words of warning that will frighten you from visiting istanbul but they are things that you should keep in mind.

  • Only drink bottled water.   And never buy water from someone on the street.  If the plastic “lock” is broken or doesn’t “snap” when you twist the cap, don’t drink it.
  • The wine is a bit strong and some of the brands are made from the same thing that shellac is made from and, quite honestly, some taste like shellac.  (I had one bottle that had the nose of shellac – I drank it of course – but boy did I have a headache the next day.)  If you find a wine that you like, write down the name; there aren’t that many wines to choose from.

And with that, enjoy!

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